Oil Light on after Rebuild

[cl4yd0h]

Hello all,

I just put in a wiseco 1133 kit in my 80 1100EX and now I'm experiencing an intermittent oil light running rotella 15w40.

When I assembled the top end I put 50 ML in the valve train before reassembly per the manual before I buttoned up. I cranked it over with plugs out until the pressure light went off.

Sometimes the light will flicker at low idle, sometimes turn off when revved, sometimes off, and sometimes solid. Also the entire check panel will illuminate with the light.

I have only ran the bike for a total of about 5 minutes since the rebuild it as the oil light is making me uneasy but I'm wondering if it just needs to be ran to fill all the passages?

Looking at the wiring diagram It looks like I can unplug it to verify circuit and will try that tomorrow..

No oil cooler came with the bike, but holes in the filter cap were drilled for one that must have been there at one point in time. It was looped with a piece of rubber hose so I just fitted with brass plugs until I can find a good cooler, possible my brass plugs are interfering? I didn't check to see if the plugs stick out the other side.

Other than that, rebuild wen't great and she fired right up! Sounds mighty nice with the shiny new VH 4-1! New clutch and springs, new piston and rings, lapped valves, new valve seals, decked out the warped head, Power Commander jet kit.. I'm excited to rip! Eventually I will do the high volume gears.

Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.

 

[Guest]

What do you have the idle set at?

 

[Brendan W]

Also the entire check panel will illuminate with the light.

Are there other bulbs lighting up ? If so the problem sounds electrical. Some of these bikes the check panel won't work at all if there is a problem with the oil pressure switch wiring.

 

[cl4yd0h]

I verified the circuit by unplugging the swtich, and it appears to be working.

I have tried several idles, doesn't seem to matter much.

The entire check panel (brake, headlight, tail light, battery etc) illuminates with the oil switch. I don't know if it's on purpose to grab your attention to the oil pressure or electrical.

Thanks guys

 

[Eli69]

i suggest trying an oil pressure gauge.

 

[hampshirehog]

The check panel gets its earth from the oil pressure switch, that's why it all lights up.

Have you tried removing the switch and giving it a good clean?

 

[cl4yd0h]

This morning I fired it up and the oil pressure light was immediately off, ran for a few minutes with it off, then came on and went out when I revved it, then stayed solid no matter what the rpm. This was all within about 5 minutes.

I'll try pulling the switch now.

 

[cl4yd0h]

I think I found the problem!

 

[JTGS850GL]

I think I found the problem!

I believe that a loss in continuity on the oil pressure switch would cause the light to go out, not on, since the light get's it's ground from the switch contacting the case.

 

[cl4yd0h]

You are right, the light gets its ground from the switch as someone said above.

However it seems the readings are all over the place, as you can see sometimes the switch is depressed and still has continuity. I should be getting a definite on-off and I'm not. It seems to read worse with heat. It's the erratic readings that are making me suspect the switch. And because I REALLY want to believe it's the switch instead of pulling it apart again..

 

[JTGS850GL]

You're missing how the switch works. With no oil pressure, the plunger contacts the engine case and gets ground. As oil pressure rises it lifts the plunger off of the case and looses ground causing the OP light to go out. In your case the plunger is loosing contact between the plunger and the contact on top which would mimic having oil pressure not loosing it. The switch may still be bad and sticking along with loosing contact so replacing the switch can't hurt.

 

[cl4yd0h]

Ah I understand. Thanks for the clarification. I think I am going to replace the switch any how and go from there.

 

[Brendan W]

You could get lucky and find it's just dirt and or corrosion inside the plunger.

 

[cl4yd0h]

I replaced the switch with same problem but I believe I have found the problem.

I was under the assumption that this was a stock 1100 cover and the holes were drilled to fit the cooler that the bike did not come with, Instead of having a cooler the PO had the two drilled holes on the filter cover looped. Assuming I had an 1100 cover I plugged the holes with brass plugs. I just pulled the filter cover to find that this does not appear to be an 1100 or 1150 cooler cover, it looks to be an aftermarket that would have been sold with the cooler.

As far as I understand, this cover is routing 100% of oil flow to the cooler, and this oversight by me cause me to block 100% of oil flow from the pump by using these blanking plugs. I did ride the bike for about 1 mile an attempt to resolve the oil pressure issue and ran enough time to sync the carburetors.

Hopefully no damage done.. crossing my fingers.

If anyone could verify my suspicion or identify this cover it would be much appreciated. Thank you.