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Oil pressure Gauge wiring to a bike without one

  • Thread starter Thread starter bikerzx7r1981
  • Start date Start date
B

bikerzx7r1981

Guest
Hi

I have a gs1000e I am trying to make a GS1000S replica. I have got hold of some GS1000S clocks. but not sure how I would wire the oil pressure gauge in?


any advice much appreciated :)
 
you are going to have to post what gauge you have and the instructions. There are mechanical and electical gaunges so not sure what part of the problem you are dealing with.
 
Hi Sorry,

I have got hold of GS1000S clocks but I currently on have gs1000e clocks. so I need to know how to wire the oil pressure gauge please?

posplayr said:
you are going to have to post what gauge you have and the instructions. There are mechanical and electical gaunges so not sure what part of the problem you are dealing with.
Click to expand...
 
bikerzx7r1981 said:
Hi Sorry,

I have got hold of GS1000S clocks but I currently on have gs1000e clocks. so I need to know how to wire the oil pressure gauge please?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I misunderstood the first time. I'm sure Ed (Nessism) knows what type of oil pressure gauge is on the GS1000S. I suspect thermal electric but don't want to guess and dont have a manual. You will need a sensor of course; do you have one of those?

If Ed doesnt come along look at Basscliff's website for the 1000 manual; it will spell out what is required.
 
The 1000S doesn't have an oil pressure gauge. Do you mean the oil temp gauge? If so, you need to get an oil cavity plate that includes the temp sensor, and then wire it up to the gauge just like the wiring diagram in the manual shows.

The photo below shows the sensor plate you need.

tempsensor.jpg
 
Sorry I meant a Oil temp gauge.

Its just a standard one from a gs1000s. I dont have the oil cavity plate, is is there any other models I can take this plate from or know anywhere I can get one from?


Nessism said:
The 1000S doesn't have an oil pressure gauge. Do you mean the oil temp gauge? If so, you need to get an oil cavity plate that includes the temp sensor, and then wire it up to the gauge just like the wiring diagram in the manual shows.

The photo below shows the sensor plate you need.

tempsensor.jpg
Click to expand...
 
thats great thanks, so if i buy one if these then just run a wire directly to it?
 
bikerzx7r1981 said:
thats great thanks, so if i buy one if these then just run a wire directly to it?
Click to expand...

You will need the sensor element too, and then drill and tap the plate to accept the sensor. After that, it's one wire up to the cluster, along with the appropriate ground. The GS1000 FSM available on Basscliff's site has the wiring diagram. Please check the wiring details for yourself to make sure everything gets hooked up properly.
 
Nessism said:
You will need the sensor element too, and then drill and tap the plate to accept the sensor. After that, it's one wire up to the cluster, along with the appropriate ground. The GS1000 FSM available on Basscliff's site has the wiring diagram. Please check the wiring details for yourself to make sure everything gets hooked up properly.
Click to expand...

Sensor grounds itself through housing and mounting bolts. There is only a single wire interface between sensor and the gauge.
 
Nessism said:
1000Sgauges.png
Click to expand...

Ed,
Is the gas tank sender really one wire? On my GS1100ED and GS750EX it is two wire with a ground return to the harness (B/W).

I know it is the factory manual, but I think the tank return is probably through the harness (so two wires) and the oil sender return is through the engine/frame grounds (details :)) so it is one wire.

The factory manual probably is a simplification. :confused:

Jim

Jim
 
Jim,
The sender is two wires, but one is a ground.

The interesting thing about these gauges is the bimetal voltage regulator. I have no idea how it works.
 
Nessism said:
Jim,

The interesting thing about these gauges is the bimetal voltage regulator. I have no idea how it works.
Click to expand...

IIRC, a bimetal voltage regulator works similar to a bimetal house thermostat. Since the strip is made up of two metals, they expand at different rates, causing the strip to curve slightly, breaking the electrical connection.

In the case of the voltage regulator, voltage thru the coil will create current (Ohm's law), and the current will create a field that heats the strip through induction. More voltage = more current = more heat. The strip will again curve, breaking the connection if the current is too high. Once the strip cools, it returns to shape and makes the connection again.

I'm sure if I'm wrong, the collective will slap me silly.....
 
wisgolfer59 said:
IIRC, a bimetal voltage regulator works similar to a bimetal house thermostat. Since the strip is made up of two metals, they expand at different rates, causing the strip to curve slightly, breaking the electrical connection.

In the case of the voltage regulator, voltage thru the coil will create current (Ohm's law), and the current will create a field that heats the strip through induction. More voltage = more current = more heat. The strip will again curve, breaking the connection if the current is too high. Once the strip cools, it returns to shape and makes the connection again.

I'm sure if I'm wrong, the collective will slap me silly.....
Click to expand...

Okay sounds good. Now please explain the purpose of the VR in the gauge circuit? I assume it's to slow down response of the fuel gauge, but how does it work?
 
Nessism said:
Okay sounds good. Now please explain the purpose of the VR in the gauge circuit? I assume it's to slow down response of the fuel gauge, but how does it work?
Click to expand...


Ed

wisgolfer59 has got it mostly all right (except "induction" ). I think all three devices are thermal and it is heat in bimetallic springs that cause the needles to deflect as well as the contacts. It has the same kind of needle deflection mechanism as a bourdon tube pressure sensor.

I say this because Bill and i worked on his guages one night when he was here. I was surprised at how slow the VR operated. It is a thermally controlled bimetalic spring. At night we could see it sparking as it opened and closed. By running some emery cloth through the contacts we were able to remove some corrosion and the sparking reduced and the needle deflection from the VR ON/OFF was also reduced.

The VR is to keep the voltage to the top of the gauge more stable than the charging voltage.
 
I bow to the wisdom of the collective......I didn't make the analogy to Bourdon tubes
 
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