One lean cylinder

[chuck hahn]

use a compressor and spray the chips and such out of the hole REAL REAL WELL!! and while you have the tap, it wouldnt hurt to run it in the other hioles just to clean any corrosion in them out as well DONT FORCE THE TAP AT THE BOTTOM...When it botttoms out stop.. I would use a bottoming tap myself..the flat ended one. and to save the grief later of stripping the cross slits on those phillips headed bolts get the stainless bolts withn the allen heads..might. have to go to a specialty fastener place for those but well worth the effort.. allen heads get much better grip when your trying to remove them. See if a places called FASTENAL is anywhere near you. We have a place by me called METRICS UNLIMITED.. If you dont have any luck let me know and i can run over and get them for you and forward them. And check the tap to the nut you find to be sure its the right tap..been there and done that too.

 

[Rick65Cat]

OK!!! Done ......Bought a tap today and when I got home from work I started on it. Went a turn at a time then backed out to clear off any chips or crud. Got the tap all the way in. And yes, I blew the hole with half a spray can of spray oil that flushed the hole nicely.
I tried a screw in it and it does wobble a bit about a 1/4" into the hole. Then it firms up. Theres no sensation that its going to loosen (stripping) if I tighten it more.
I might invest in a longer screw for that hole if the stainless capscrews that I ordered aren't long enough for my liking.

I want to thank all that suggested stuff. Gave me tips and ideas I wouldn't have thought of under the stress.
You guys ROCK!!!

Stuff on order....
16 Stainless capscrews.
4 New intake boots.
4 New intake boot O-rings.
Complete O-ring kit for the carb kits I bought.

Once the carbs are done and re-installed, I'm going to install 4 new NGK-B8ES plugs. Install my new Bridgestone BattleAxes then go do a series of plug chops.
I'm running too rich so I'm not worried about cooking the valves. And the one lean cyl, I'm sure was because of the boot O-ring (on the lean cyl) was incorrect

 

[Nessism]

OK!!! Done ......Bought a tap today and when I got home from work I started on it. Went a turn at a time then backed out to clear off any chips or crud. Got the tap all the way in. And yes, I blew the hole with half a spray can of spray oil that flushed the hole nicely.
I tried a screw in it and it does wobble a bit about a 1/4" into the hole. Then it firms up. Theres no sensation that its going to loosen (stripping) if I tighten it more.
I might invest in a longer screw for that hole if the stainless capscrews that I ordered aren't long enough for my liking.

I want to thank all that suggested stuff. Gave me tips and ideas I wouldn't have thought of under the stress.
You guys ROCK!!!

Stuff on order....
16 Stainless capscrews.
4 New intake boots.
4 New intake boot O-rings.
Complete O-ring kit for the carb kits I bought.

Once the carbs are done and re-installed, I'm going to install 4 new NGK-B8ES plugs. Install my new Bridgestone BattleAxes then go do a series of plug chops.
I'm running too rich so I'm not worried about cooking the valves. And the one lean cyl, I'm sure was because of the boot O-ring (on the lean cyl) was incorrect

You did well Rick. Glad you got that bugger out, and glad you are attacking the carb cleaning properly instead of gambling on some used carbs without cleaning them first.

Next thing you NEED to do is check those valves. That engine looks clean, too clean, as in it looks like the original valve cover gasket. Hopefully it will come off easily; removing the gasket is the only hard part about the job.

Good luck and keep going...

 

[chuck hahn]

Glad to hear..You would use the same lessons learned here should you need them on an exhaust stud. Best bet before ever touching an exhaust stud is to soak it 2 or 3 times a day with some PB Blaster .Do this for 2 0r 3 days before you intend on removing the bolts. And remember that heat is your friend ..Heat the head around the bolt a bit too. the combination of a good soaking and heat will help loosen the oxidation before you get started and hopefully they wont snap. If you are backing them out and they seem to be getting tighter..stop and turn them back in a few turns and reapply the penetrating oi and work the bolts back and forth a bit. Key here is go slow, FEEL whats going, on and be patient. FOOT NOTE: once you get the exhaust studs out replace those with stainless also...and no threadlocker on exhaust studs!!!!!!!!

 

[Ponderosa]

Don't forget!

Don't forget!

Before you start those new stainless screws, put some never seize on the threads, it will keep you from having to drill and tap in the future...

 

[Rick65Cat]

Next thing you NEED to do is check those valves. That engine looks clean, too clean, as in it looks like the original valve cover gasket. Hopefully it will come off easily; removing the gasket is the only hard part about the job.

Good luck and keep going...

Yeah, this isn't my first barn dance. I had one of engines new in `78. I even had the valve tool for depressing the bucket to get the shims out. Had a nice stock of shims too. Gave them all to the kid that bought the bike. Who knew I'd get another one almost 32 yrs later.
The compression test was good but I dunno if that would reflect a tight valve.

Ooooo..........also got a line on another bike today..hehehe..a guy at work says his son (who lives in Washington) has a early(?) 70s Honda "350 four" thats leaning against his dads barn that ran when he put it there 4 yrs ago. Also has 2 other 350 "four" parts bikes. Dad says hes getting tired of them lying around. Wink, Wink.