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Orientation and routing of front cables (GS 850GT)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Peter Buehner
  • Start date Start date
P

Peter Buehner

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So another lesson learned as I stumble through this restoration project:

-Even if it seems so simple when you are removing it, always document how something was put together.....


Can someone please tell me the proper routing and orientation of the front brake cables? Or maybe point me to a detailed tutorial? I checked bikecliff but no luck. I have three replacement cables and each has a straight connector on one end and then a 15 degree bent connector at the other end. I know that is how my original cable were too but I don't know where each end goes. Also, a photo or description of the actual routing would be a huge help too. Sorry for this blunder...sadly I am confident that it won't be the last :confused:

Thanks for any help.
Peter
 
two, if not all 3, of the straight ends go to the splitter under the triple tree. The rest is just looking at which length works best.
 
Thanks azr! So on the splitter, there is a single side and a double banjo side. Does it matter where each line goes into that splitter? Obviously one drops from the MC to the splitter and then one goes to each caliper.
Thanks again.
Peter
 
Your factory service manual has diagrams on how the cables are to be routed. Look in the section near the wiring diagrams.
 
I will look at the manual. I looked at the manual but just in the brake section. The pictures there are so dark that I cannot make out what they show.
 
A straight banjo fitting is on each of the left and right calipers.

The left caliper line (under clutch lever hand as you sit on bike) goes to left (single) side of splitter, with the angled banjo mounted so that the brake line points away (outwards) from the splitter end.

On the right hand side of the splitter (under throttle hand) is the double banjo. A straight banjo on the short master cylinder brake line goes on first, and then the angled banjo of the right hand caliper line goes on so that the line points away (outwards) from the splitter.

Was never good with word puzzles, so hope you understand my explanation.
 
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Absolutely what I needed 2BRacing! Thanks.

A straight banjo fitting is on each of the left and right calipers.

The left caliper line (under clutch lever hand as you sit on bike) goes to left (single) side of splitter, with the angled banjo mounted so that the brake line points away (outwards) from the splitter end.

On the right hand side of the splitter (under throttle hand) is the double banjo. A straight banjo on the short master cylinder brake line goes on first, and then the angled banjo of the right hand caliper line goes on so that the line points away (outwards) from the splitter.

Was never good with word puzzles, so hope you understand my explanation.
 
I clearly must not know how to read the manual or use it. I am certainly not trying to frustrate any of you but I simply do not see the info on the brake cables where you say it is. I did, however get a simple but perfect answer just above this that was very helpful. So if you have the patience to show me where it is in the manual, I would appreciate it but only if you feel like taking the time as I already have the answer.
When I look at those pages, I see wiring harness, throttle cable, clutch cable but no brake info and definitely not enough to tell me which end should have the bent fitting.
sorry,
peter


By now, you should have BassCliff's website bookmarked.

On that website, you should have already downloaded a copy of the factory manual.

You should also have downloaded the great wiring diagram.

When you get the manual downloaded and saved, take a look on pdf pages 327 and 328 for brake hose and cable routing.

.
 
No such thing as "brake cables". I think that's part of the communication issue here. Suzuki puts the "cable" routing in the manual, but you don't want that. You want the brake HOSE routing information. Honestly though, there isn't much room for variation with that anyway so not sure what the issue is.
 
Earlier in this thread you told me to look in the manual near the wiring section because the info was there...I replied that I didn't see it. I guess I am confused. The issue was exactly what i asked...which way do the fittings go? One end is straight and one end is bent and I didn't know how to orient them. Also I personally could find a few ways to "route" the cables.
Basically, the issue I see is that you guys could take a bike apart, shake the pieces up, and put it together again without any reference. You seem to not understand that there are people like me who are absolutely clueless how any of this works...even things as simple as brakes. I am enjoying the process of learning, and greatly appreciate people's patience and generosity of knowledge. That being said, if it annoys someone or you find my dumb questions or requests for "you've got this, you are doing it right", then by all means move on.
Best,
Peter

And for this thread's specific question, as I mentioned above, I did get a perfect answer from 2BRacing earlier in this thread


No such thing as "brake cables". I think that's part of the communication issue here. Suzuki puts the "cable" routing in the manual, but you don't want that. You want the brake HOSE routing information. Honestly though, there isn't much room for variation with that anyway so not sure what the issue is.
 
Don't feel bad. I've seen numerous pictures over the years of meticulously overhauled Zooks with the clutch cable clearly routed incorrectly. The correct routing actually LOOKS wrong.

And the number of questions about front wheel / axle shims & spacers -- goes on forever, even though there are exploded diagrams available.
 
Thanks for the support. I am muddling my way through this with lots of help. If this thing runs when I am done, I will be ecstatic : )

Don't feel bad. I've seen numerous pictures over the years of meticulously overhauled Zooks with the clutch cable clearly routed incorrectly. The correct routing actually LOOKS wrong.

And the number of questions about front wheel / axle shims & spacers -- goes on forever, even though there are exploded diagrams available.
 
Hey Peter. Just thought I'd share a mistake I made replacing mine. Somehow after the new brake lines went on the tachometer cable got moved over enough to pinch behind the triple tree. Turning the forks hard to the right was when I noticed it. Unfortunately in the hundreds of miles I put on with the new brake lines I didn't notice anything wrong but I let my stepson ride it and within five miles the tach quit working. The cable is done for with a severe kink. I can't blame my boy, it would have happened to me sooner or later.

Edit: I suspect I routed the tach cable wrong to begin with but didn't notice till now.
 
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Thanks for that info! I am hoping to get them all routed and bled this weekend. Did you use any sort of bleeder or just go the manual route? I was thinking of getting a bleeder since the youtube videos I have seen make it look much easier.
I will watch the other cables too.
Have a great weekend.
Peter

Hey Peter. Just thought I'd share a mistake I made replacing mine. Somehow after the new brake lines went on the tachometer cable got moved over enough to pinch behind the triple tree. Turning the forks hard to the right was when I noticed it. Unfortunately in the hundreds of miles I put on with the new brake lines I didn't notice anything wrong but I let my stepson ride it and within five miles the tach quit working. The cable is done for with a severe kink. I can't blame my boy, it would have happened to me sooner or later.

Edit: I suspect I routed the tach cable wrong to begin with but didn't notice till now.
 
No, I didnt use a bleeder, just a piece of clear tubing on the nipple fed into a can on the floor and a wrench. The front left was the most challenging but it went fine. It takes a while for any pressure to build and I went through most of a 12oz container in the process.
 
Ok. I think I will give that a shot before dropping the $40 on a bleeder.

No, I didnt use a bleeder, just a piece of clear tubing on the nipple fed into a can on the floor and a wrench. The front left was the most challenging but it went fine. It takes a while for any pressure to build and I went through most of a 12oz container in the process.
 
Thanks for that info! I am hoping to get them all routed and bled this weekend. Did you use any sort of bleeder or just go the manual route? I was thinking of getting a bleeder since the youtube videos I have seen make it look much easier.
I will watch the other cables too.
Have a great weekend.
Peter
Get a 1 dollar veterinary syringe and suck the fluid out from the bottom.
 
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