Painting brake calipers

[Guest]

I am soon going to paint my brake caliper for the rear. I have caliper paint in a rattlecan.

Is there any reason to paint the inside parts of the two halves? I mean around where the brake pads and pistons go. It was painted before, but I am not sure I see the point, the brake pads and the plastic cover will make it non-visible. On the bigger half there is clearly some parts visible, but masking the entire area covered by the brake pads will massively simplify masking.

How do I mask the holes? Buy same size bolts and put in? Fill it with some goo thats water soluble? put a ballon inside and blow it up?

Ive never really painted anything, but I am pretty sure I can get a half decent result (as long as it is black on all visible parts I will be happy).

 

[Rijko]

Is there any reason to paint the inside parts of the two halves?

No, leave it bare.

How do I mask the holes? Buy same size bolts and put in?

That is an option. or use a bit of painters tape or other tape to cover the holes.

 

[Guest]

No, leave it bare.

Sweet, that will massively simplify the process.

That is an option. or use a bit of painters tape or other tape to cover the holes.

I don't understand exactly how to tape just the hole and not get any tape covering the sides (like for the breather valve screws). I guess I can put the breather valve screw in and tape around it and remove it and clean ti immediately after painting.

 

[Gorminrider]

put a wooden dowel in holes...

 

[oldGSfan]

I put thin painter's tape around the threads and screw them in lightly, using the bleed screw and banjo bolt. For the insides I use tape to cover the bore and razor cut it, and just give a light coat on the inside. It isn't visible but I guess they did at factory for protection or simplicity, not sure.

I used VHT satin black caliper paint, and did many other parts with it for a consistent look, baking in the oven at 95C for an hour. When bleeding the brakes I cover up as much of the caliper as possible with a rag and keep degreaser nearby in case of spills. Putting grease on the bleed screw helps with air being sucked in and also paint being affected by fluid. Here's a pic including the brakes and other parts done with the VHT. I've used many times with success and touch up is easy.

Sweet, that will massively simplify the process.



I don't understand exactly how to tape just the hole and not get any tape covering the sides (like for the breather valve screws). I guess I can put the breather valve screw in and tape around it and remove it and clean ti immediately after painting.

 

[Guest]

I put thin painter's tape around the threads and screw them in lightly, using the bleed screw and banjo bolt. For the insides I use tape to cover the bore and razor cut it, and just give a light coat on the inside. It isn't visible but I guess they did at factory for protection or simplicity, not sure.

I used VHT satin black caliper paint, and did many other parts with it for a consistent look, baking in the oven at 95C for an hour. When bleeding the brakes I cover up as much of the caliper as possible with a rag and keep degreaser nearby in case of spills. Putting grease on the bleed screw helps with air being sucked in and also paint being affected by fluid. Here's a pic including the brakes and other parts done with the VHT. I've used many times with success and touch up is easy.

Those looks really nice. It seems my caliper paint is more shiny (I test sprayed a metal tool). I'll try throwing the wrench in the oven and see how it reacts to the heat.

Do you use just one coat or several?

I got some of those lines with flow back valves for bleeding the brake, hopefully that will direct the brake fluid elsewhere. But putting a rag under and having degreaser around I will certainly do.

Edit: I just now noticed the oil resoirvoir cover, didn't realize those could be painted, that seems like a brilliant idea.

 

[oldGSfan]

Yeah they make it in gloss too. I always like VHT, it lays on well. I do what the can says, two light coats and one medium. I tried those valves long ago and they didn't work out for me, maybe just my skills at the time and not knowing the grease around the bleeder threads trick. Now I use a vacuum tool, and little zip ties around the bleed nipple so I don't yank them off. My GS took about three pumps and were perfect. I have struggled mightily with brake bleeding bikes before and was amazed how fast and easy it was this last time. Again, maybe skills.

Those looks really nice. It seems my caliper paint is more shiny (I test sprayed a metal tool). I'll try throwing the wrench in the oven and see how it reacts to the heat.

Do you use just one coat or several?

I got some of those lines with flow back valves for bleeding the brake, hopefully that will direct the brake fluid elsewhere. But putting a rag under and having degreaser around I will certainly do.

Edit: I just now noticed the oil resoirvoir cover, didn't realize those could be painted, that seems like a brilliant idea.

 

[Jhurt]

go to amazon or wherever and buy an assortment of the silicon plugs. they're cone shaped and high heat resistant so you can even cure bake on paint before removing them. like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Silic...49Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[Guest]

Yeah they make it in gloss too. I always like VHT, it lays on well. I do what the can says, two light coats and one medium. I tried those valves long ago and they didn't work out for me, maybe just my skills at the time and not knowing the grease around the bleeder threads trick. Now I use a vacuum tool, and little zip ties around the bleed nipple so I don't yank them off. My GS took about three pumps and were perfect. I have struggled mightily with brake bleeding bikes before and was amazed how fast and easy it was this last time. Again, maybe skills.

I managed to ruin my paint job, and cover the driveway and myself with brake fluid, and the tyre. I think I will try buying a vacuum tool, they are not too expensive. If three pumps is enough that would save me a ton of work.

I had the line with flowback valve kind, but they didn't really work well. And I managed to empty the resorvoir twice with them. I honestly don't understand this bleeding thing yet.

I am glad I started with the rear brake, not a crisis to struggle a bit then.

go to amazon or wherever and buy an assortment of the silicon plugs. they're cone shaped and high heat resistant so you can even cure bake on paint before removing them. like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Silic...49Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

$12.87 + $43.69 Shipping & Import Fees Deposit to Norway Details


Thanks for the advice, but at that price Ill wait until I am in the US next time. Wonder when corona will be done there... I used a random plastic screw for the bleed nipples (for some furniture I assume? probably a spare from an ikea set), for the banjo one I just shoved paper inside, and for the hole for the attachment bolts I used the bolts. They are now black but I actually like that.

 

[Rijko]

They are not strong enough to withstand blasting,
but for painting i use (used ) ear plugs.

 

[Guest]

They are not strong enough to withstand blasting,
but for painting i use (used ) ear plugs.

I considered that. When I pick up my front wheel Ill grab some from the tyre store. They have a box of free ones that says: "If you're not driving on goodyear tyres, grab a free pair of earplugs". I love that kind of advertising.

 

[Guest]

i have found the aluminum tape used for sealing ductwork (not duck or duct tape, but the smooth metal stuff) to work very well for masking irregular shapes like holes and the like. Cuts very clean with a razor blade and gives sharp lines.