Parts compatability between gs550's

[neeko]

Hey guys,

I was recently up on craigslist and thinking "what the hell its almost winter" I started to look through pages of forsale ads hoping to find something I can toy with.

Up comes a posting for a 1980 GS550L for $150 in pretty nice condition.
Only catch was that it was missing the gas tank, throttle assembly/handgrip and the left grip assembly was pretty chewed as well.
Another problem is that the bike has been sitting in the garage for almost 20 years. I'll probably be rebuilding the engine or worst case scenario swapping the entire block :\

So long story short I picked the bike up after watching this video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBuvK3Z-eMU&feature=related


Now my main concern is that I have not got a clue about motorcycles. I had the same problem when I built my first car when I didn't have a clue. But 2 and half years later I managed to fix that thing up and it wasn't even THAT hard. So I figured a bike wouldn't be such a big problem.

The problem is that I don't know anything about carbs and the second thing is that its pretty hard to source parts for that specific model year.

I'm looking to turn it into a cafe racer but I still don't know if I could just dump a tank from another year gs550 and be over with.

Did quite a few searches but nothing comes up in particular that could answer my qyestion. Are there any lists or house of knowledge of swappable/interchangeable parts out there in the gs550 family?

Thanks!

 

[mike_of_bbg]

20 years is a long time to sit. But, if you can turn the engine over, you might be surprised what a simple carb cleaning might accomplish! You don't need to know much about carbs. The CV carb rebuild guide from the GSR front page should tell you all you need to know. Just get some o-rings from www.cycleorings.com; pick up some intake boot o-rings and stainless bolts for them while you're there. At www.z1enterprises.com you will find the carb plugs and bowl gaskets you need. Check your valve clearances first and see what shims you need as Z1 sells shims for about $5 and you can combine shipping.

80 will be the last year of GS550L tank that will just bolt right on. They changed the rear mounts after this, then 81 and 82 are interchangeable (and only those two years), then a new design for the 83s and later. I can't tell you which earlier years might also fit your bike. But if you can find the part # for your tank, say at www.partshark.com, you can cross-reference it at http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx and see what other parts are the same, at least if the bike with the potentially compatible tank is in their database (81 and 82 GS550Ls are not).

Check the for sale board for things like your right and left-hand controls. Those parts from other GSes (like the 650 for sure) should fit your bike. Use the technique above to find others.

BassCliff should be along soon with his greeting, and his site has 90% of the info you need to keep your bike running great. Plus there's a factory service manual there for your bike as well. Good luck, and know that if you come here with the proper attitude the community will help you get your bike running again soon.

 

[neeko]

Thanks Mike! I just read your rescue post for your bike and coincidentally enough you commented on mines as well!

I've been reading up and down left and right about this bike for the past few weeks already and it has really gotten me all fired up.

I spoke with the Seller (guy restores VW beetles for a living) and he says the engine turns with no problem. But he has never started it since he acquired it back in 86 or so from another guy.

I double checked the bike again and my main concern is that the left crankcase cover is completely smashed/shattered/blown up whatever you want to call it. I just can't seem to remember if the crankcase itself was damaged or not

I'm currently browsing BC's resources right now and its burning like fire.

But lets say for example; IF the gas tank was to line up via feed but not via mounts, technically speaking I could say....fabricate them or jerry rig it right? I've never owned a bike before so I don't know how far I could stretch the "structurally sound" part

 

[Nessism]

Ebay is full of 550 fuel tanks. Do your self a favor and just get the proper part.

That part about the crankcase is a concern. Engine covers are easy to find but splitting the crankcases is different - lots of work.

 

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. neeko,

The left crankcase cover houses your stator, part of the charging system, and the starter clutch. There are still plenty of parts available. What's not available OEM you can find on ebay or here in the parts sections. I'm glad you found us.

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[mike_of_bbg]

A stator cover should be easily found used. You'll probably want to check the condition of the parts inside, particularly the stator. Crankcases are matched sets; if either half is damaged you'll have to replace both halves. A brief search on eBay turned at least one set up. You can also replace the whole motor, of course. 79-82 GS550 motors should be compatible. You should even get a kick starter if you add a 77-79: always a wonderful addition to any cafe racer project. Post pics of the damage and you'll get opinions.

Consider adding your bike info to your sig, and adding your location with the user CP. You never know - might find some nearby GSer who would be willing to help out.

 

[neeko]

Thanks guys!

I probably got my sides confused but isn't the left side the side that houses the sprocket gear for the chain?

I also rechecked the VIN today and it turns out I do indeed have a 1981 gs550L instead of the aforementioned 1980 bike. However; on the spec sheet it states twin disc front but on my bike its only single disc

The front sprocket gear looks pretty rusted along with the frame so thats gonna go. But the right hand side housing the clutch and all looks absolutely clean!

Bike should be delivered here by next friday so I'll have some more detailed pictures up. First on the list is a complete strip down for rust proofing and damage assessment.

Thanks again Mike and BassCliff!!

 

[mike_of_bbg]

OK, first let's figure out which year you actually have, and maybe if yours has been Franken-biked a bit (common). You have a single front disc brake; what's your rear brake? For 81 I think it should be a hydraulic disk, 82s have a mechanical drum brake. Also check the model information on the steering tee tube on the frame. Does it have something after the L? e.g., mine says GS550LZ, the Z meaning 82. An 81 should be an LX. Also, pull the seat and check the rear mount for the tank. Two bolts going down is 81 or 82. One bolt going forward would be a prior year. I have a picture of an 81 GS550L and I only see one disc on the front. The 81 and 82 GS550Ls IIRC have the lowest capacity tanks of the entire GS series at just over 3 gallons (including reserve). Ugh.

The stator cover is indeed on the left side. It's a rather large bucket sort of thing just below the cylinders, and has two round "humps": one large (where the stator goes) and one small (where the starter gear is). That actually does cover the crankcase. If you take it off oil will spill out everywhere. It sticks out further than anything else on the left side and would be most likely to be damaged by the bike being dropped to the left. Behind that, still on the left side, is the smaller and "squarer" thing that I call the sprocket cover. Under that cover is your front drive sprocket, the clutch push rod and actuating mechanism, your gear indicator sensor, and your shifting lever. It should also have a smaller clutch adjustment cover on it held on with 3 small bolts. Despite their relation to your clutch, neither of these is the "clutch cover". If the sprocket cover was damaged it's most likely caused by the chain breaking and slinging, tearing everything apart. One likely part to be damaged is the slender clutch push rod, which may be bent. Although I guess it does technically cover part of the outside of the crankcase, the inner crankcase volume is not exposed when that is removed. So it's not really what I'd think of when "crankcase cover" is said.

On the right side there is the small round ignition/timing cover on the front (held on with 3 screws/bolts), and behind that the clutch cover. The clutch cover has your oil fill cap and oil level sight glass. The clutch actuation mechanism is on the left under the sprocket cover, and it pushes the push rod, which releases the clutch on the right side of the engine.

Hope that helps get us all on the same page.

 

[neeko]

Thanks again Mike. I guess I got a bit confused when I read that the stator was on the left side which it indeed is! Just a bit further up forward than what I expected haha.

Whats broken is the front sprocket cover which seems like it exploded. The Seller said the kids that used to rent his home probably hit it with a hammer because it wasn't smashed when he got it. I also did a chain tension check and it has ALOT of play

The frame itself is indeed the 1981 model following the VIN; and after closer inspection I do see an X following the L on the gs550 on the bottom right corner. But since the X was stamped noticeably further than the L I thought it was just an "X" for approval

I was about to purchase an 81 tank off ebay earlier today but thankfully the reserve wasn't met. I think I'm just going to rig the 1980 tank onto the bike since that looks considerably bigger. Does anyone know how brydman76 hammered in his fuel tank to look like the old school cafe racers?

I also see that his tank's not sitting at a downward angle. Did he reposition the tank or did he bondo up the rear to be more conformed with the frame?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=104862&highlight=scud&page=8

 

[neeko]

Hey Guys,

Finally got a break from school work so I started tearing the bike down today. Been trying to do a compression test but I can't seem to get the clutch to engage or disengage (Don't know where its at right now. Shifter only moves two positions. Down one and back up)

As you all may know the transmission cover that covered the front sprocket was shattered. And upon closer inspection after removing the chain, I found a rod protruding from the housings. The rod itself is situated in front(left) of the sprocket and from what I can see is bent at a good angle.

The rod itself is free moving and you could pull it out slightly but thats about as far as it will go. I am guessing this is the source of my clutch problem.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

It took me a while to figure it out. But if the bike is not in gear theres no way I'm turning the crank by spinning the sprocket hahaha

 

[nisom512]

I would say it is not the "clutch push rod" it is most likely your disks or springs on the other side. or maybe even the mechanism that pushes the push rod in and is attached to the "sprocket cover" not "transmission cover" The clutch cover is on the other side of the bike. If you go here http://www.bikebandit.com/1981-suzuki-motorcycle-gs550lx/o/m6085 you can look up how all the parts go together and you may be able to understand how they work too.

good luck you are on a long, fun, and aggravating journey

Jake

Hey Guys,

Finally got a break from school work so I started tearing the bike down today. Been trying to do a compression test but I can't seem to get the clutch to engage or disengage (Don't know where its at right now. Shifter only moves two positions. Down one and back up)

As you all may know the transmission cover that covered the front sprocket was shattered. And upon closer inspection after removing the chain, I found a rod protruding from the housings. The rod itself is situated in front(left) of the sprocket and from what I can see is bent at a good angle.

The rod itself is free moving and you could pull it out slightly but thats about as far as it will go. I am guessing this is the source of my clutch problem.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

It took me a while to figure it out. But if the bike is not in gear theres no way I'm turning the crank by spinning the sprocket hahaha

 

[Nessism]

If the clutch pushrod is bent it will have to be replaced before the clutch will work properly. The pushrod installs from the other side of the engine so you will have to remove the clutch cover and pull the pushrod through - after cutting it off with a dremmel or similar maybe. Ths pushrods themselves are not sold by Suzuki any longer so you will have to scrounge one used. Hopefully you can find one on ebay or here in the Parts For Sale forum. And don't forget to replace the pushrod seal, from the photo it apears to be leaking.

 

[neeko]

Finally pulled the push rod through after about an hour or so fighting with it. Didn't have any dremel blades handy at the time hence the tiring work.

Nessism, I've been looking all over online for a similiar one under part number 23100-44101 at alphasports. However when you click on the item itself it tells you that the part number has been updated to 2partpushrod.

Now as you probably know already; the older push rod is 1 piece with screw like threads at the end. The newer pushrods are 2 piece.

While searching online there was a member on another forum that said Suzuki updated the pushrod design to part number 23110-44111 which is the two piece push rod.

A little confused now. Both part numbers are dramatically different but again it says its model compatible. The only BIG BIG major difference is that the older rod has the screw threads whereas the newer one is two piece and is thread-less.

Any ideas?

 

[Nessism]

Sounds like Suzuki superceeded the part with a two piece design. I have no experience with this so can't comment other than to say I'd search the used market for the origional part.

 

[neeko]

Got the motor out last weekend finally!

Probably one of the biggest noob mistakes ever. But I read somewhere that you're suppose to take the front sprocket off with the chain and wheel still on.

Well, as you can see from the previous picture; none of that happened .

So after screwing around with the flathead to hammer the folding nut flat on the front sprocket, it became clear to me that I could use the hammerhead as a anchor point for the sprocket and proceeded to jam it in between the sprocket and the shifter lever.

A pair of vise grips and 2 hammer knocks later the gear was loosened and out on its way! boy was that easy

Still haven't checked for compression yet but the engine is currently at TDC. Removed both the outer sparkplugs with a pair of pliers since I didn't have the correct size socket and noticed the pistons were down so I could only assume the middle two are tdc.

So far everything's been going a doosy until I got to the plate behind the front sprocket that secures the rubber seals to the motor. The 2 screws holding in the clutch rod seal came right out while the 1 screw holding in the sprocket seal decided to snap right off. I'm leaving that part in for later so its not really an issue right now.

After being woken up by the snapped screw head that I shouldn't really use gorilla strength on the brittle 28 yr old bolts I decided to easy out the rest of em until I got to the cam cover......

It turns out that 80% of the bolts on the cam cover are FROZEN. And that if I continued to try and loosen them up they will just snap. Snapping the screw head on the seal cover was no biggie. But snapping a bolt on the cam cover is not an option.

I understand that aluminum melts pretty easily but will blasting it with a propane torch warp anything?

Still haven't turned the motor yet since I can't get it into gear without the clutch rod. But just wondering, can't I just turn the crank and get it over with? I already tried opening the crank cover but it doesn't seem like it wants to come out unless I remove the starter motor and the connector attached to it. But looking back at the diagram there doesn't seem like theres anything I could grab onto inorder to rotate the cam.

How does one turn a motor while its out anyways?! I've never had such problems on a car engine.

I've been going through all the threads on the forum during my off time to read your stories and learn from your experiences and mistakes. I would like to give a big THANKS to everyone who has posted and contributed to the GSR.

I will try to document most of my progress as well so that noobs like me can benefit from this thread as well.

 

[waterman]

You are bringing back painful memories of broken bolts and frozen engines. My current ride was similar to your with cam cover bolts snapping left and right. Do yourself a favor and replace all bolts with stainless cap screws.

As for turning motor over, remove the points cover on the right side of motor and put a wrench on the bigger nut and turn clockwise. This is the right side of the crankshaft. Good luck with it.

 

[neeko]

Just got back from engine wrestling. Ended up with 3 broken bolts all on the inside where the bolts connect with the head.

After screaming obscenities and alerting the whole neighborhood I proceeded to blast the last few bolts with the torch and they came out wonderfully (Wonder why I didn't do that to begin with?!)

I turned the engine over on the other side waterman :-#.
I did it through the alternator/starter side and in the process of yanking the cover a spacer fell out and now I don't know where it goes except that theres another spacer set up for the starter gear. So I'm guessing it goes with the starter gear as well at this point.

Now this is what I don't get. The motor turns freely but everytime I turn it I would hear random clinking noise coming from the intake side ports. And if I crank it hard, Air comes out from the intake side. (Now I do not have any prior experience with these kinds of motors. But in a modern car motor this would = bent valves.)

I secured the compression tester tool onto the sparkplug 4 and went a cranking. Gauge read maybe 10 or so psi and then my heart sank. I called my brother up and he said that since this is a carb motor, I might need to do the test with the carbs on. Cause when I put my hand over the intake port and covered it while cranking, the vacuum increased and brought the reading to 30psi which is still incredibly low.

I haven't toyed with motorbikes in my short years but I'm completely stomped at this point. I made a video but I'm not sure if the camera caught the sounds the engine was making. I'll do a upload tonight and will see.

As for the broken bolts on the cam cover. I'm hoping I can remove the cover now since it looks like the threads are theaded into the head whereas the cam cover is just slid on so I could just vise grip those suckers and twist and pull.

Overall it was an awesome day today aside for the fact that ORANGE means it will burn through your pants.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

You cannot hand crank the engine of the bike fast enough to get a good compression reading. The normal way to do a compression test on a carburetted bike motor is to take all the spark plugs out, hold the throttle full open, and crank with the starter (about 10 secs.) until the compression gauge reads its highest reading.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

As for the broken bolts on the cam cover. I'm hoping I can remove the cover now since it looks like the threads are theaded into the head whereas the cam cover is just slid on so I could just vise grip those suckers and twist and pull.

BIG TIP: Seeing as you have the motor out of the frame. Remove all the cam cover bolts by one means or another. Replace all the 6mm theaded holes in the head with stainless steel Re-Coils (heli-coils). Then when using the 6mm stainless steel cap bolts to hold the cam cover on you will have no further problems with bolts snapping or threads stripping out.

Have just completed this on mine, but was a bit easier with the head off the motor and using a pedestal drill to correctly drill out the threads and do the tapping of the new threads. Used the pedestal drill to do the tapping as well to get everything at 90 degrees and vertical. Machinists will know what I mean.

 

[neeko]

Suzuki Don,

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

You Sir, just saved me a good amount of anguish and sadness. I felt really weird seeing how all of the "how to compression test motorcycles" involved doing the test while the motor was still in the bike and now I understand

I am definately replacing the bolts. But since I have no precision machinery to do the necessary tapping I'm going to play it safe and order new bolts of the same cut and thread.

I've still yet to clean the carbs seeing how I'm not brave enough to mess with tiny pieces of parts yet. But the whole damn thing moves aside for the fact that the springs are covered in rust and looking real ugly the carbs look pretty good. There is some corrosion and bubbly on carb #2's butterfly though. Should I be concerned? and does that warrant a replacement?

I have stumbled upon a part that I can't seem to find a use for. It situates itself behind the starter cover and directly under the cam chain tensioner. It consists of a sensor like appendage with a plastic cap (which vaporized itself after some light poking) with a sleeved wire running back to the harness. I'm guessing its a oil pressure sensor, but the one pictured has no wire running out of it.

Any clues?

Thanks guys!