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TheCafeKid
Guest
No, actually, the manual simply states not to maintain a constant RPM/speed while in the break in period. Says nothing about pussy footing it atall.
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Guest
Guest
hey, theres a specific forum for RELIGIOUS debates
But we are not worthy of this alleged forum.
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GavinJuice
Guest
This is nothing religous, it's just always a touchy subject and old school of thought (i think.) It's just like the synthetic debate, it ruined my engine!! Honestly take a look at that site and you will be blown away. I've done plenty of reading on it, any many people out there believe in the the same method of break in.
Do you really think these billion dollar companies would recommend having a new engine of theirs redlined and driven the **** out of them initially? Nah, they gotta protect their asses.
Do you really think these billion dollar companies would recommend having a new engine of theirs redlined and driven the **** out of them initially? Nah, they gotta protect their asses.
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TheCafeKid
Guest
Ive never bought into the "break-in miles" BS. Granted, im not going to take a freshly built motor out and hotshift it, and run it thru the red in every gear, but drag racers, car racers and the like rebuild the motors on their cars on a pretty regular basis, if not after every race. They dont put 1000 miles on them before running them next time either. Now, I know we're talking about RACE built motors vs street motors, and longevity is factored in and all that, but as long as i feel ive given it what its needed to seat the rings, wear in whatever needs worn in, and the like, I sure as hell aint runnin around soccer momin' it. These motors are made to be ridden hard. Thats why they dont get into the powerband untill 5-6k rpm. Im a firm believer in Taking it easy on a motor can be just as bad for it as running the chit out of it. My grandpa had a 81 Chevy Silverado that he had completely restored from the frame up (dont ask me why, he was a strange old man) and he drove it like, well, a grandpa. It was given to me by my grandma after he died. That thing drove like a dream untill you hit 55 when i first got it. Why? Cos it had NEVER seen faster than 55. 60mph it ran like dog ass. I took it out for a couple weeks and drove the crap out of it till it spat out all that built up carbon and what not, then that thing ran better than it ever did.
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Guest
Guest
one has to allow that people may feel better with using one particular method over some other (be it the oil, the brake-in method, oiling the pistons or not, etc.)
the things that are definitely going to do a lot of damage to an engine are well known and you have to point those out to a novice home-mechanic
but, for the things that are ever going to make only minute unnoticeable differences (if any), on your average gs, it really doesnt matter to me
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Natron037
Guest
The ring gaps on the compression rings are placed as such because the exhaust side is normally the thrust side (up stroke) of the piston and there is a chance of the edges of the ring scoring the cylinders, hence the reason the gaps are on the intake side (downstroke). Does it matter.. my opinion is not really. As long as compression is good.. ride it. Remember.. the opening for blow-by with the piston in the bore is only about .010" by .0015", which isn't very big at all! As far as breaking in, my dad built drag race v8's as long as i can remember and he always told me "after the cam is broken in (new install, lifters and cam lobes need to get friendly) drive it like it's stolen... if it doesn't break you put it together right". I have followed that for 10 years and have never had an engine failure. Just my 2 cents.
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juicydangershow
Guest
Well now that you said THIS, you should pull it apart again. Install everything DRY, wipe the cylinder walls down with a clean terry cloth / WD40 and reinstall everything DRY. Also i would re-hone, but thats your choice. When you install everything all oiled up there is a very good chance the cylinder walls will glaze up.
I just thought i would mix everything up again
I would have liked to re-hone and put new rings in. And new pistons too! And powder coat the frame. And... haha. Unfortunately there was a cut-off point on what I can (or will) do. She likely wont run like a brand new bike, but I am sure it will be fine.
As far as installing pistons/rings/cylinders DRY or with WD40... I have never heard that. Maybe that advice is for certain gaskets.
By the time I even get it started, any excess oil I have dowsed on the pistons and cylinder walls will likely have drained back in the oil pan, leaving just a normal coating on everything.
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