POR15 Sealer Set up time

[J_C]

Edit: I contacted POR15 and they recommended doing it right after it set (an hour maybe).... so I guess disregard this.

I have a makeshift gasket made out of sheet metal on both the petcock and fuel gauge sender hole. In about 2 hours I'm removing the acid, drying, and then dumping in the por15 fuel sealer.

Any idea on how long it takes to harden? My thought is that I'll need to remove the gaskets so I can ensure I still have a fuel gauge sender and petcock hole. Dont want the sealer hardening over it.... any recommendations on whether to wait for it to harden and then carve away at it, or remove the gaskets relatively quickly (right after ensuring all surfaces are coated) so it doesnt harden to begin with.

Thanks in advance!


secondary question
They strongly recommended using their other products (metal ready and something else) because they said it wont adhere at all to phosphoric acid.... (i assume this is why Nessism recommended i break up all the phosphate left behind with aquarium rocks) Anyone else have any advice on this?

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Put some saran wrap between the metal plate & the tank. The POR will not stick to the S Wrap

 

[J_C]

Thanks Lynn, great idea! I'll do that with the petcock plate as well. The heat gun's been going at 120 degrees for about an hour now to ensure it's completely dry. I only hope I got all the phosphate off the tank with the aquarium rocks (though I still suspect them trying to sell me on more products... I'll have to look @ the website to see if I can identify what's in their "metal ready")

 

[J_C]

Product Name: Metal-Ready Rust Remover/PrePrimer
Phosphoric Acid 7664-38-2
Zinc Phosphate 7779-90-0
Octylphenoxy Polyethanol Ethanol Triphenol Methane 9036-19-5


COME ON... and they told me I shouldnt use phosphoric acid.... pfft. Their stuff undoubtedly leaves the same phosphate coating. I'm pretty comfortable I'll be fine. I'll post up results when I'm done.

 

[posplayr]

Jc

Jc

When I did mine it was hard to avoid rust starting back in the tank, but generally I think the Por products like the rust and light coating to "bite". I did not do teh bolts and nuts trick or teh aquarium rocks.

When I coated teh inside, it took a while to get all of the excess out as there is no simple way to drain the tank and it took about 30 minutes of rolling the tank around so you don't end up with any "pooling", a little wont hurt, you just dont want 1/2 pint of pint in the bottom.

I used an old sender plate and gasket and a small peice of flat plate to block the petcock. I used a piece of tire inner tube as a gasket, and taped off the filler top with blue masking tape.

Posplayr

 

[J_C]

Thanks Jim, the sealer's all done. I had about 3/4 of the can come back out, then I just kept rotating the tank around so the remaining liquid in there would settle somewhat evenly. Im not sure how you know if the sealer works or if it failed... I assume it chips off or... ?

Anyway it looks good from the limited parts of the tank I could see. Time will tell!

 

[Nessism]

Thanks Jim, the sealer's all done. I had about 3/4 of the can come back out, then I just kept rotating the tank around so the remaining liquid in there would settle somewhat evenly. Im not sure how you know if the sealer works or if it failed... I assume it chips off or... ?

Anyway it looks good from the limited parts of the tank I could see. Time will tell!

So the one can was enough?

 

[J_C]

It was more than enough, though my initial estimates were wrong... I ended up using (meaning it didn't drain back out) 1/2 a can. I was a little worried when it first poured in, but I'm close to positive I got the entire tank covered. I shook it back and forth, upside down, I flipped it downwards rapidly, then I just took time slowly turning it in all directions so it could flow into corners, across surfaces, etc I spent lots of time on the areas I couldnt see, such as the roof of the tank, and the side that doesnt have the petcock and fuel gauge sender. Everywhere I CAN see has a nice solid (and now hardened) layer of silver, so I'm pretty confident it will turn out well, unless theres areas that will end up chipping later?

My gf is a student dentist and is bringing over one of her mirrors on a stick type deals so I can shine in a light and see more of the obscure areas =]

 

[Sandy]

I did a tank a few years ago with POR and it worked great. Just get some air flowing in it for a few days to cure the areas where the paint might be puddled inside. I used a computer fan taped over the filler hole. I also had a thick layer of paint on the paint can lid just to see how long it took the thicker areas to cure. Let it sit for a few days at least to make sure it's all cured.

 

[J_C]

Thanks Sandy! I have high hopes. Good idea with the lid... I'll keep that handy. I'll see if I can rig something up in terms of a fan....

 

[J_C]

Good news bad news....

Good news: by using the lit mirror I was able to check out almost all parts of the tank.... it looks GREAT! Uniform appearance, no puddles.... awesome!!

Bad news: by using the lit mirror my gf was able to determine I have a cracking filling which will lead to another cavity

 

[Guest]

So is the cracking filling going to lead to more rust???

 

[earlfor]

Good news bad news....

Bad news: by using the lit mirror my gf was able to determine I have a cracking filling which will lead to another cavity

Errrrr.............
So whats the problem? I thought you said you had a half can of POR left over.

Earl

 

[Guest]

Earl's home cure for filling cavities.

 

[crag antler]

Just go easy on the phosphoric acid. Could be tough on the gums:-k