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Progress!!! 1978 GS1000E Restoration/Performance Rebuild

Sure about that - ? In the relaxed state the clutch arm is parallel with the clutch cover, giving it an angle of less than 90 degrees in relation to the clutch cable. When the clutch is pulled, the cable and arm are at a 90 degree angle. When the arm is rotated one more notch counterclockwise, it sticks out obtrusively beyond the clutch cover and its angle in relation to the clutch cable is very narrow.

While Rudy already answered, yes. I've owned mine since new and that's how they came.
 
From the service manual:


This is how my clutch arm is oriented


For more clarity - I matched the angle of the cable in relation to the arm (in the relaxed state) with a carpenter's angle guide. At full throw, the clutch arm is at a 90 degree angle to the cable. In my current arrangement, I have 1/16" free play before the clutch arm begins to engage the clutch throwout mechanism.


 
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As promised (three years later)...

A special thanks to:
rapidray (head builder and advice giver)
Fred Cousins (buddy and master mechanic/Italian motorcycle aficionado who helped me build the engine)
azr (hard-to-find bolt provider)
and *anyone* else who provided valuable insight during this build

For all to enjoy:



Had a few minor issues with fuel line leaks, but nothing major. Charging system works perfectly and generates around 14.3V at 1200 RPM. Verified with a timing light, total advance is set to 33 degrees.

Overall, everything was delightfully uneventful. She started up instantly and ran like a champ. Words cannot describe how thrilled I am right now!
 
Nice job! Now get that thing on the road so you can break in those rings properly!
 
Cool! Now to finish her up....that's a little too naked bike there.
 
Thanks for all of the replies - this weekend, I will be removing the fuse panel and battery box to do a smidge of welding and then these parts, along with a bunch of other stuff, will be going to my powdercoater.
 
Today's progress - I'm in the home stretch, now!

Let's get some welding done:


Making a round peg fit in a square hole - modifying the rear turn signal brackets to hold my aftermarket signals:







Shortening the horn mounting tabs - the studs on my new horns are too short to mount through the original rubber isolators. So, I cut the brackets short and drilled them.


Welded studs for the R/R on the mounting plate:
 
More progress - continued...

Filled some holes and gouges in the electrical plate:


I decided that I wanted to use a rubber strap to secure my battery - I was going to roll some steel to create hooks for the strap eyes, and then simply weld these hooks to the battery box. Unfortunately, when I originally modified the battery box several months ago, I didn't take this into account. So, to make the battery box look cleaner, I decided to remove the side supports that I previously welded in. I made new side supports that had integrated hook ends:

*First battery box modification from several months ago*


*New side straps with hooks*






Last batch of parts that need to be sent to my powdercoater:
 
Can they powder coat plastic? I'm thinking the heat needed {400?} would melt plastic things the headlight bucket...
 
Wow, I just browsed thru 44 pages of pics and your doing an incredible job. I really like the wiring, thats top notch and I do that stuff for a living. Cant wait to see this finished and see how its runs.
 
Wow, I just browsed thru 44 pages of pics and your doing an incredible job. I really like the wiring, thats top notch and I do that stuff for a living. Cant wait to see this finished and see how its runs.

Thanks! As I mentioned in an earlier post, I looked at the original harness and realized there was no point in trying to modify it - it was simply easier to build a new one.
 
You mentioned a while ago that you had custom cables made{?}...if so, could a longer tach cable be done?
 
Not sure - I will ask my buddy today while I am at his shop.

Reason I ask is that I'm toying with the idea of moving my gauges to my Vetter Windstar fairing and mounting them where the unused speaker covers are - and to do that, if it were possible, I'd need a longer tach and speedo cable.
 
Reason I ask is that I'm toying with the idea of moving my gauges to my Vetter Windstar fairing and mounting them where the unused speaker covers are - and to do that, if it were possible, I'd need a longer tach and speedo cable.

Bob,

The short answer is: my buddy can make custom-length tach cables, however, without having the bike at his shop to properly size the cable and to determine what other fiddly bits will be needed to make it work properly, it becomes difficult/time-consuming/expensive.

What might be the best option for you is to give Motion Pro a jingle and then ask them "Can you make part# XXXX 4" longer?" They already have all of the information on file for the existing standard length cable (whereas my buddy does not) and should be able to extend it for not much additional cost.
 
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