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Required reading for all forum users!!!
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Progress!!! 1978 GS1000E Restoration/Performance Rebuild
- Thread starter philosopheriam
- Start date
Good read and tips. Just getting ready to start plating. What type of heater did you use for the cleaner/degreaser? Caswell recommends 190 degree's. I can probably get 140 degrees out of my sonic cleaner? I have media blasted some parts with 50-80G glass beads. Will they still need degreasing with heat? The polishing part, I guess I will see how they turn out to see if polishing is needed after plating. I would rather not, but results will dictate that. The guys at Caswell have been helpful as has Charlie at Advanced Tek Neeks.
"What type of heater did you use for the cleaner/degreaser?"
THE PLATING BATH USES A HEATER, NOT THE DEGREASER... I used a saltwater aquarium heater - my heater only went to 93 degrees Fahrenheit. In my experience, temperature isn't the most important variable in plating, however, you do not want the mixture to be "cold." 90 to 100 F is more than sufficient.
Type of Cleaner/Degreaser:
Purple Power (Simple Green or Castrol Super Clean will work, too)
"Will they still need degreasing with heat?"
Once your parts are blasted (or buffed with a wire wheel), they will always need to be degreased.
If you follow my process, i.e. using a distilled rinse and then a dilute sulfuric dip after plating and then the chromate, you will not need any polishing afterward. Keep in mind, "pretty in, pretty out..."
Cheers!
PS: I deleted all of the messages in my inbox, just in case anyone was having a hard time PM-ing me...
First ride of the season, 3-31-2019, 36 degrees, sunny and a bit breezy.
Changed the engine oil and filter, gave her a bath, lubed the chain, aired up the tires, re-oiled the pod filters, did a function check, and went back to my previous pilot air jet size of .7.
Last year, I forgot that I dropped the air jet to a .6 and never tested the bike. I started it up over winter and it wasn't running quite right. It was stalling/bogging on a quick throttle twist and it had never done this before. Then I remembered the air jet change - the carbs originally came with a .8 (larger means more air), and I had a "sneeze" at 1/8 throttle that was pretty pronounced. I then dropped the air jet to a .7 and 98% of the sneeze disappeared. I figured I'd try a .6 and see what happens - no dice. So, back to .7 it is...
She runs like a rocket! I almost forgot how hard this thing pulls. Puts a smile on my face from ear to ear (thanks Rapidray).
Changed the engine oil and filter, gave her a bath, lubed the chain, aired up the tires, re-oiled the pod filters, did a function check, and went back to my previous pilot air jet size of .7.
Last year, I forgot that I dropped the air jet to a .6 and never tested the bike. I started it up over winter and it wasn't running quite right. It was stalling/bogging on a quick throttle twist and it had never done this before. Then I remembered the air jet change - the carbs originally came with a .8 (larger means more air), and I had a "sneeze" at 1/8 throttle that was pretty pronounced. I then dropped the air jet to a .7 and 98% of the sneeze disappeared. I figured I'd try a .6 and see what happens - no dice. So, back to .7 it is...
She runs like a rocket! I almost forgot how hard this thing pulls. Puts a smile on my face from ear to ear (thanks Rapidray).
Just beautiful!
Do you like the sound of the Delkevic?
Do you like the sound of the Delkevic?
G
Guest
Guest
Anthony, empty your PM box, it's too full to accept any more.
Thus far, I've been pleased with the Delkevic - it's loud, but not obnoxious. Sound quality isn't raspy, either. Build quality of the pipes is excellent, too.
TEASER: Something new in the works for Francine due to tendinitis in my clutch arm and COVID-19 boredom.
Hint: Clutch modification
Parts on order, stay tuned...
Hint: Clutch modification
Parts on order, stay tuned...
An automatic? Cool!
Not exactly.... Will post pictures and instructions ASAP...
Hydraulic?
Ding, we have a winner! Working on using mostly off-the-shelf parts with a bit of home engineering. Will post a complete write up with part #'s and photos so anyone on the site can duplicate it.
Update: was going to post the entire process this weekend, but ran into some complications - nothing that can't be overcome with some additional parts, ingenuity, and garage engineering. Parts will be arriving 4/28 and 4/29, assembly will be happening on Sat 5/2.
GSX1100 dreamn
Forum Mentor
The 2000 year model GSX1100S Final edition came with a clutch assist.
Here is one for sale on Yahoo as an example.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l591383424
Cheers Andrew.
Here is one for sale on Yahoo as an example.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l591383424
Cheers Andrew.
As promised, here is a detailed write-up on Francine's conversion from a cable-actuated clutch to a Magura Hymec hydraulic system.
Preface - why am I doing this?
A. I have tendinitis in my left arm that weakens the grip in my left hand. Although my arm is improving, extended rides combined with the stiffer springs in my clutch setup make repetitive clutch pulls tiring.
B. COVID-19 boredom, plain and simple. When I get bored, I want to build/create stuff.
The initial parts:
Most everything was purchased from Magura USA (http://www.magurausa-shop.com/) with the exception of the clevis, which is from Venhill USA https://www.venhillusa.com/. Things like drill bits and bolts were purchased from Mcmaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/).
Magura makes street (163mm handle) hydraulic clutch perches in three different piston size varieties - 9.5mm, 10.5mm, and 12.5mm. The smaller the piston, the more line pressure, and thus a lighter the clutch pull. HOWEVER, as the piston size decreases, so does the amount of fluid that is displaced when the handle is squeezed which results in a shorter distance pulled by the slave cylinder. I went with the middle option, 10.5mm, because Magura uses it in most of their kits for 1000cc bikes, and I thought it would be the best compromise between felt clutch pull and proper amount of slave travel. You can also buy hydraulic clutch perches that are designed for brake fluid, however, the one I chose uses mineral oil only (Magura Blood).
Step 1 - Picking a Slave Cylinder: I had an idea in my head of what the mounting adapter would look like (drilled bolt with a jam nut) and the overall height of said adapter. From this point, I measured the distance to the the clutch arm, subtracted the approximate length of the clevis, and arrived at the slave circled in red. Keep in mind, I wasn't 100% certain this was the correct slave - I may have been able to use a shorter one, but I figured that I could always take up excessive play with shims, whereas too short of a slave would be useless.
Step 2 - Making the Mounting Adapter. The standoff on the engine case is female M8, 1.25 pitch. The nose of the slave cylinder has a top-hat sleeve that is removable (slides off), exposing the nose of the slave which has a diameter of approximately 5.56mm (.219"). Using x2 different wire drills, first a 2ga @ .221", and then a 1ga @ .228, I drilled a low-profile stainless socket-head cap screw directly on center in my drill press. Without going into detail on this process, it was difficult and not for the faint of heart - if you don't have a decent drill press at home, this is a job a machine shop can do easily with minimal labor. Now, you may be asking why I used a socket head cap screw - the hex portion of the screw is a hair over 5mm, and I found that the 2ga wire drill centers itself fairly well inside this hex when starting the drilling process. Then, the hole can be enlarged with the 1ga drill - it is necessary to have a hole slightly larger than the .219" diameter of the slave nose. Why - because there is a rubber dust sleeve slips onto a groove at the end of the slave nose, and right at this groove the rubber sleeve "puckers" a bit, and it will not fit into a hole that is the same diameter as the slave nose. I found that .228" is the smallest hole that the rubber sleeve will slide into easily.
To re-create the taper of the original top-hat, I put the drilled bolt in my drill press and used a couple different attachments on my Dremel to grind the head of the bolt while it was rotating:
Drilled a chamfer into a nut to allow the jam nut to sit flush against the head of the adapter bolt:
Preface - why am I doing this?
A. I have tendinitis in my left arm that weakens the grip in my left hand. Although my arm is improving, extended rides combined with the stiffer springs in my clutch setup make repetitive clutch pulls tiring.
B. COVID-19 boredom, plain and simple. When I get bored, I want to build/create stuff.
The initial parts:
Most everything was purchased from Magura USA (http://www.magurausa-shop.com/) with the exception of the clevis, which is from Venhill USA https://www.venhillusa.com/. Things like drill bits and bolts were purchased from Mcmaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/).
Magura makes street (163mm handle) hydraulic clutch perches in three different piston size varieties - 9.5mm, 10.5mm, and 12.5mm. The smaller the piston, the more line pressure, and thus a lighter the clutch pull. HOWEVER, as the piston size decreases, so does the amount of fluid that is displaced when the handle is squeezed which results in a shorter distance pulled by the slave cylinder. I went with the middle option, 10.5mm, because Magura uses it in most of their kits for 1000cc bikes, and I thought it would be the best compromise between felt clutch pull and proper amount of slave travel. You can also buy hydraulic clutch perches that are designed for brake fluid, however, the one I chose uses mineral oil only (Magura Blood).
Step 1 - Picking a Slave Cylinder: I had an idea in my head of what the mounting adapter would look like (drilled bolt with a jam nut) and the overall height of said adapter. From this point, I measured the distance to the the clutch arm, subtracted the approximate length of the clevis, and arrived at the slave circled in red. Keep in mind, I wasn't 100% certain this was the correct slave - I may have been able to use a shorter one, but I figured that I could always take up excessive play with shims, whereas too short of a slave would be useless.
Step 2 - Making the Mounting Adapter. The standoff on the engine case is female M8, 1.25 pitch. The nose of the slave cylinder has a top-hat sleeve that is removable (slides off), exposing the nose of the slave which has a diameter of approximately 5.56mm (.219"). Using x2 different wire drills, first a 2ga @ .221", and then a 1ga @ .228, I drilled a low-profile stainless socket-head cap screw directly on center in my drill press. Without going into detail on this process, it was difficult and not for the faint of heart - if you don't have a decent drill press at home, this is a job a machine shop can do easily with minimal labor. Now, you may be asking why I used a socket head cap screw - the hex portion of the screw is a hair over 5mm, and I found that the 2ga wire drill centers itself fairly well inside this hex when starting the drilling process. Then, the hole can be enlarged with the 1ga drill - it is necessary to have a hole slightly larger than the .219" diameter of the slave nose. Why - because there is a rubber dust sleeve slips onto a groove at the end of the slave nose, and right at this groove the rubber sleeve "puckers" a bit, and it will not fit into a hole that is the same diameter as the slave nose. I found that .228" is the smallest hole that the rubber sleeve will slide into easily.
To re-create the taper of the original top-hat, I put the drilled bolt in my drill press and used a couple different attachments on my Dremel to grind the head of the bolt while it was rotating:
Drilled a chamfer into a nut to allow the jam nut to sit flush against the head of the adapter bolt:
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Step 3 - The Clevis: Originally, I was going to use a shorter and narrower clevis stolen from an old clutch cable. Unfortunately, when I mounted the slave cylinder in the engine case standoff with the adapter I made, I noticed that the clutch arm sits higher than the slave cylinder rod. With a cable, this isn't an issue, as the flexibility of the cable allows for some misalignment between the clutch arm and the mounting of the cable. However, with a hydraulic slave, the components aren't flexible, thus the pull needs to be as straight as possible to not put excessive wear on the slave bore and piston surfaces. The picture below shows what I'm describing:
To remedy this, I needed a wider (taller) clevis - this would allow the rod to sit slightly below the center line of the clutch arm. After a bit of searching, I found that Venhill had exactly what I needed. From the factory, this clevis has a pin hole diameter of 5mm, whereas the GS clutch arm is 6mm. No biggie, I just drilled out the holes to 6mm. I then drilled the hole where the slave rod goes through the the back of the clevis with the 2ga wire drill, as this wire drill is nearly the exact diameter of the trumpet at the end of the rod. Lastly, a wider/taller clevis gave me the opportunity for a more elegant way to secure the slave rod to the clevis - I used a nipple adapter from Magura. The nipple is slotted and drilled with a recess for the trumpet. Once the rod is inserted into the clevis, the nipple can then be installed onto the rod and the trumpet sits into the recess, preventing the nipple from sliding off. For this system to work, the clevis has to be kept under slight tension at all times - all Magura slave cylinders have a spring inside them which pushes backwards against the rod as it goes to full extension. This is purposeful, as it keeps the system constantly adjusted and it prevents the trumpet from jumping out of the nipple recess. During the final setup, the rod should sit in the middle between maximum and zero spring tension.
The clevis pin you see in the photos above was fabricated from a 6mm stainless partially-threaded bolt. I simply drilled it for a cotter pin hole and cut it to size, the hole is 1/16".
To remedy this, I needed a wider (taller) clevis - this would allow the rod to sit slightly below the center line of the clutch arm. After a bit of searching, I found that Venhill had exactly what I needed. From the factory, this clevis has a pin hole diameter of 5mm, whereas the GS clutch arm is 6mm. No biggie, I just drilled out the holes to 6mm. I then drilled the hole where the slave rod goes through the the back of the clevis with the 2ga wire drill, as this wire drill is nearly the exact diameter of the trumpet at the end of the rod. Lastly, a wider/taller clevis gave me the opportunity for a more elegant way to secure the slave rod to the clevis - I used a nipple adapter from Magura. The nipple is slotted and drilled with a recess for the trumpet. Once the rod is inserted into the clevis, the nipple can then be installed onto the rod and the trumpet sits into the recess, preventing the nipple from sliding off. For this system to work, the clevis has to be kept under slight tension at all times - all Magura slave cylinders have a spring inside them which pushes backwards against the rod as it goes to full extension. This is purposeful, as it keeps the system constantly adjusted and it prevents the trumpet from jumping out of the nipple recess. During the final setup, the rod should sit in the middle between maximum and zero spring tension.
The clevis pin you see in the photos above was fabricated from a 6mm stainless partially-threaded bolt. I simply drilled it for a cotter pin hole and cut it to size, the hole is 1/16".
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Step 4 - Mount everything up!
I had some interference issues between the Magura clutch perch and my left-side control (my controls are a bit bulky), a little fitting was required so that the end of the clutch handle wasn't too far away from the end of the handlebar. I used a die grinder with a carbide bit and worked carefully to not remove too much material:
I had some interference issues between the Magura clutch perch and my left-side control (my controls are a bit bulky), a little fitting was required so that the end of the clutch handle wasn't too far away from the end of the handlebar. I used a die grinder with a carbide bit and worked carefully to not remove too much material:
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