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Project Windjammer

  • Thread starter Thread starter Matchless
  • Start date Start date
:confused: well, you can definitely say NOW you do have painting skills! :clap:

I am definitely not going to be that forward, even to myself, before I have done the tank and fairing!
Although I must admit, I have been strutting around the bike in the garage with a bit of a smirk when no-one was about!;)
 
That sure didn't take you long! what did you do; start painting as soon as company stepped out the door? ;)
 
That sure didn't take you long! what did you do; start painting as soon as company stepped out the door? ;)

They were just around the corner on their way back to Cape Town!
The weather report shows 27 C for tomorrow so I will have it baking in the sun for a while. The harness has been patched in as well!;)
 
The whole job looks way better than my hack job! Especially those lowers, I didn't spend near as much time and effort making the 750 lowers work on my bike, I just cut until they fit the way they worked best for me.:D
 
The whole job looks way better than my hack job! Especially those lowers, I didn't spend near as much time and effort making the 750 lowers work on my bike, I just cut until they fit the way they worked best for me.:D

I must give Dale some credit. I had to make a call on Dale shipping the type IV lowers over and then finding them impossible to fit to the Windjammer V (as Craig Vetter himself said). Dale confirmed that it would just require some bending and trimming which was enough for me.:D

If anyone has some detail on the "bungee cord" that was used to tie the two lowers under the carbs I will appreciate it. Were the eyelets on the badge mountings used for this?
 
I didn't know anything about a bungee cord. Now, I'll have to see if I can make a spot to tuck the remaining bits of my flaps for my lowers in closer.
 
:eek: where did you get this information from?

It's on Craig Vetter's website as "Instructions for mounting Lowers", but I think the bungee cord solution only applies to Type 5 lowers, as that's the instructions that are shown.
 
Windjammer has just been painted:

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Looking great Andre!

Are you spraying inside or outside? Just wondering how you go with flies and things on the wet paint. Something I need to ponder when I get down the track to spraying my tank etc.
 
Looking great Andre!

Are you spraying inside or outside? Just wondering how you go with flies and things on the wet paint. Something I need to ponder when I get down the track to spraying my tank etc.

Thanks Pete. I have sprayed outside and have a few bits of small fluff that settled on the clear, but will just flat that with 2000 and polish it out with clear coat cutting and polishing paste. Tried it on the tail piece and worked quite well and did not take too much effort.
 
It looks awesome Andre!! Way different than the pics in post #1 !!!

Chuck, I may get it mounted tomorrow and will post a picture. I still have to do the windshield and paint the tank.
My daughter likes the colour and calls it "old fashioned blue"!
 
Thanks Pete. I have sprayed outside and have a few bits of small fluff that settled on the clear, but will just flat that with 2000 and polish it out with clear coat cutting and polishing paste. Tried it on the tail piece and worked quite well and did not take too much effort.

Good to hear, that gives me a little relief thinking ahead. I was thinking about closing in the garage with drop cloths etc. but I would end up closing myself in with all those paint fumes which doesn't make me feel good thinking about it.

If I'm careful then just three side coverage to protect the garage from overspray will be enough, leaving the garage door open for air circulation.

And I'm looking forward to seeing the Windjammer mounted too :)
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...id=p4712.m2000054&item=260754425027&viewitem=

possibly hooked between the two black dots in the flaps?

my type IV lowers wore a groove in the the carb bodies from the lowers rubbing on them, but I don't think a bungee wouldn't have helped that. was the bungee intended to keep the fairing or lowers from cracking or? dunno..

Dale, those dots look like the mounting holes for the Vetter badge compared to mine.

I think the "bungee cord" may be an elastic cord and hooked into the Vetter badge retaining clip eyelets. Its purpose may be to pull the two loose ends of the inners towards each other and stop them flapping or vibrating I think. One may then need some weatherstripping where they touch any parts.
 
Good to hear, that gives me a little relief thinking ahead. I was thinking about closing in the garage with drop cloths etc. but I would end up closing myself in with all those paint fumes which doesn't make me feel good thinking about it.

If I'm careful then just three side coverage to protect the garage from overspray will be enough, leaving the garage door open for air circulation.

And I'm looking forward to seeing the Windjammer mounted too :)

For me it works to shoot paint outside, in colder weather to reduce bugs. It's easy to not breathe any paint that way. I like to do it early in the day before it warms up and gets windy. I keep the paint the items to be painted and the gun warm in the sun, and put the pieces immediately into the greenhouse where it's warm to dry.
Anything that gets in the paint will wet sand out later. The 650 I just did there was just one mosquito sized bug that landed on the side cover, he lifted out easily and the marks he left in the paint will sand right out. It will sand out much easier than the thumbprint from when I almost dropped the tank.
 
One may then need some weatherstripping where they touch any parts.
A piece of black rubber vacuum line split lengthwise and glued to the flap should work as well.

Andre, I been thinking about this for quite some time.

if the budget will allow it, may I suggest you obtain a piece of perspex and form it instead of the Naxel. after all this work you need to take it easy and acrylic bends so much easier...
 
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A piece of black rubber vacuum line split lengthwise and glued to the flap should work as well.

Andre, I been thinking about this for quite some time.

if the budget will allow it, may I suggest you obtain a piece of perspex and form it instead of the Naxel. after all this work you need to take it easy and acrylic bends so much easier...

I said it before: "Great minds think alike" I have been considering that option myself and mostly because there is also so much more info available on bending perspex at home. I have a choice of 4 or 5mm, nothing in between. What do you suggest would be best?
 
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