Race Tech emulators.

[cdnoel]

This post is for my 80 GS1100E. Going to purchase some emulators and spring kits from race tech in the next two weeks. My forks have damping adjustment on the bottom but I'm thinking this will be just extra parts along for the ride when I'm done, Correct?

The sales person only asked me how much I weigh and what bike I have. Never asked me if I plan to ride two up or what type of riding I do. Are these adjustments that I can make after I get the parts and should only wory about during instalation or should I make sure I get someone more knowledable on the line while ordering the parts.

Also I'm going to need some modified damping rods or atleast an extra set that I can modify myself. Anyone have a set? Thanks

 

[Joe Nardy]

This post is for my 80 GS1100E. Going to purchase some emulators and spring kits from race tech in the next two weeks. My forks have damping adjustment on the bottom but I'm thinking this will be just extra parts along for the ride when I'm done, Correct?

The sales person only asked me how much I weigh and what bike I have. Never asked me if I plan to ride two up or what type of riding I do. Are these adjustments that I can make after I get the parts and should only wory about during instalation or should I make sure I get someone more knowledable on the line while ordering the parts.

Also I'm going to need some modified damping rods or atleast an extra set that I can modify myself. Anyone have a set? Thanks

Chris,

You will be instructed to drill a couple extra holes in your damper rod which render the damping adjustment useless. You make damping adjustments to the cartridge emulators by increasing or decreasing the tension on a spring plate and oil viscosity. I don't know if they have corrected the part number on their website but a couple years ago it had the wrong part number. I don't remember the specifics but the emulator part number contains the diameter in millimeters. The correct diameter should be 33. The site used to specify 36 mm emulators.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[posplayr]

Here is a link where Joe helped me out.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=121271&highlight=race+tech+emulators

GS1100E Racetech emulators (factory setting on adjuster) #FEGV-S3301
GS1100E Progressive springs (un cut)
No spacer (just the 14 mm emulator)
Static preload adjustment at the lightest (top of 13 mm range)
15 wt fork oil
Blocked off the anti-dive oil passage to the fork with a plate.
Blocked off the anti-dive banjo at the brake calipers (anti dive brake line is dry and non functional)

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=861452&postcount=33

If you go to the RT website they hav a calcualtor for spring rate based on your weight.

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/en...&year=80-83&TABLEINFO=street&langname=english

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/Sp...1100&formuse=form1&SpringType=Fork&bikeid=425

 

[Joe Nardy]

Here is a link where Joe helped me out.

I love it when others know more about what I did than I do......

Thanks Jim!

 

[posplayr]

These pics are of 41mm GSXR 1100 forks but they are also RSU and have anti dives. The PO had not read the directions and had enlarged the two existing holes (two near the end of teh stantion on the right) and drilled the extra third hole below the lock cup (3rd from the right).

The instructions say to dill the 3rd hole above the lock cup.

I had to pull the forks again and put a forth hole (last on the left) in but it was above the lock cup.

The forks will be very stiff if you dont. My loosened up considerably.

 

[posplayr]

I love it when others know more about what I did than I do......

Thanks Jim!

You have been so helpful to not only me bit others you could hardly be expected to remember all Joe

 

[Guest]

These pics are of 41mm GSXR 1100 forks but they are also RSU and have anti dives. The PO had not read the directions and had enlarged the two existing holes (two near the end of teh stantion on the right) and drilled the extra third hole below the lock cup (3rd from the right).

The instructions say to dill the 3rd hole above the lock cup.

I had to pull the forks again and put a forth hole (last on the left) in but it was above the lock cup.

The forks will be very stiff if you dont. My loosened up considerably.

Actually, the machinist who drilled the holes didn't read the instructions, and I didn't catch his mistake

 

[posplayr]

Actually, the machinist who drilled the holes didn't read the instructions, and I didn't catch his mistake

And I just stuck it in again myself after disassembly.

Apparently I read the direction when I did my ED though...............

here is a pic of an GS1100ED damper rod drilled that I did. There looks like two holes above the lock. The stock poles were also enlarged with a third.

EDIT:

I found the link; I drilled two additional holes above the lock cup. You can see them marked as small X's in pencil.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=822547&postcount=18

OK I got my emulators to install on my 83 GS1100ED with anti dive.

The directions say to drill two additional holes for a total of 4 at 10 mm alternating 90 degree angles. However there is an additional note:

"if the bike is equipped with Anti-Dive Mechanism........ The new holes should be drilled starting just above the Bottom-out cones (or washers on models with washers).

OK so in the pic you can see where I located pencil marks for the two opposing holes above where the washers go.

* The OEM holes are at 12 mm so I spaced these upper two the same amount. Is this right?

 

[cdnoel]

Thanks. I have no anti dive units so I'll only have to deal with my damping rods and spacer length. I'd like to have a comfortable suspension when I'm done but one that will be abble to handle a few surprizes when needed.

 

[Guest]

I was worried I wouldn't be able to get all the burring out of the inside of the damper rod if I did the work, so I had a friend do it. I certainly should have double checked, so the onus is on me, for sure. I did have access to a drill press. Should have just done it myself!

 

[Macmatic]

I was worried I wouldn't be able to get all the burring out of the inside of the damper rod if I did the work, so I had a friend do it. I certainly should have double checked, so the onus is on me, for sure. I did have access to a drill press. Should have just done it myself!

Its really pretty easy once you mark up the locations. Just drill a pilot hole and then step up to 8mm with a smaller drill or two in between. If you're using a drill press take an even larger bit and set the depth so that it only goes just into the 8mm holes. On my (HF) press there was enough slop to press just a little beyond the stop and get a nice chamfer on the outside of the holes. Then <5min with a dremel per damper rod and I was good to go.

/\/\ac