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Rear Ride Height: A pet peeve fixed for about $10

  • Thread starter Thread starter nick1000
  • Start date Start date
N

nick1000

Guest
Yes, we love these bikes!! But...I hate the ass-low look of so many older bikes. Our 1000s sit pretty flat, but I wanted to mess with it a bit and fashioned a simple set of shock extensions.
I used aluminum because it's easy to drill and file with my limited skills and tools. If I redo it in steel I can use much thinner pieces.

Because this bike is so stock, I didn't want to cut or weld or sacrifice any stock piece. I gained just over an inch of rear ride height...that necessitated some trimming of the rear-brake actuator that runs throught the rearset subframe on the S models. Other than that trimming, I drilled a 6mm hole in the inside clevis of the shock to add a bolt that keeps everything in line.
The rear tire just touches the floor while on the centerstand so I can still lube the chain and do rear-wheel maintenance, etc.
Putting a bit more weight forward will certainly help the steering manners...I've already pushed the forks up through the clamps a bit...well, as far as possible before the air caps touch the handlebar.
Here is a pic, and I can post up another of the extension pieces. (I should have taken before and after pics...sorry...I just didn't want to take it all apart again!) It's amazing to me what subtle differences in stance do to a car or bike...the right ride height is big in my book. This turned out well and I'll be testing it when the weather warms.
 
Easy to see a larger space between the rear tire and seat.
I agree on the "stance" making a big difference in the look of a bike. Just changing the out 19" front wheels for an 18" makes a big improvement, to my eye.
 
Extension pic

Extension pic

I drilled the clevis for a bolt to keep everything in line...this will work until I can afford some Ohlins!!
 
What happens when the grip loosens a bit and the adapters swivel to the rear? :-k

Even better, what happens when just ONE adapter swivels? :eek:

Nice idea, but there needs to be some sort of mechanism to prevent any movement. :o

.
 
ditto on steve, though it looks like he has a 3rd bolt on the inside above the shock side bolt to prevent that. maybe if you built a bit of a box on the top so the shock can't pivot but i would think that it would put a bit of stress on the aluminum.
 
Of course something like this would be ideal...and not cheap.

shockriser_zps79b8957f.jpg
 
ditto on steve, though it looks like he has a 3rd bolt on the inside above the shock side bolt to prevent that. maybe if you built a bit of a box on the top so the shock can't pivot but i would think that it would put a bit of stress on the aluminum.
OK, I see that now, but I would think that the forces would be rather high, with that being so close to the pivot point. :-k

Something like Steve Murdoch's solution would be perfect.
icon_thumbsup.gif


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the idea is there but i dont think i would trust that set up. some more thought required me thinks!
 
Another pic

Another pic

I went through a bunch of scenarios...but came up with this due to "what I can make in my garage with a 11-year old's skills"! :o
So...definitely thought about the bolts loosening and swiveling front or back...the 6mm bolt through the inside plate holds everything in line, effectively lengthening the clevis as if it was one piece due to the second mounting point with the 10mm bolt. I loosened the main bolts completely and everything stays in line.
This pick shows a back-up idea that I used on the left side...a 90-degree piece of aluminum that runs along the length of the clevis and mechanically holds things straight. You can see where I'll add the smaller bolt if necessary.
One of my goals was to not weld or change the S much...bolt something on that gets some rake going, but not alter the bike...no 18-inch front wheels or aftermarket swingarms.
I got inspired because I always loved the look of my GSs on the centerstands...had some rake going...but they often looked a little dumpy on the sidestands. One of you guys with some skills should carve out a solution (a billet saddle that sits over the swingarm mount)...don't make me imagineer more parts!!! NI
 
Nick, PM sent. I will custom machine you a set of shock extensions.
 
Nick, PM sent. I will custom machine you a set of shock extensions.

Might as well do a few sets! :-\\\
Post some pics of the finished extensions, too, please. I'm with Nick... a bit of added rear-height would look nice on the GS line.
 
I'd be interested in these shock extensions as well. A higher rear attitude does look better, nice idea!:)
 
I Love Storm 64!

I Love Storm 64!

And I'm jealous...actually, I only lack two things in my quest to become a machinist: Skill and Machinery. Other than that...

I had this idea for a saddle that sits over the swingarm mount...the front and back of the saddle would ride on the swingarm to prevent movement and the saddle would taper up into a mount for the clevis.

So...I got a piece of billet stock from a local shop (that had no interest in helping me, other than handing me a piece of bar stock)...I filed, ground, cut, chopped, hacked, pried, Dremmelled...and produced a piece that had no relation to the piece I had imagined. It's in the dumpster. My machinist period has ended.

Storm 64, I will shoot you a PM and let's see how it goes.

But wait...I had another idea: Make a piece that mounts to the current top shock mount on the frame. It would slip over that mount, like the eye of the shock and be "bolted" in place by the stock acorn nut. It would then extend forward (not sure how far) and have a new top mount for the shock. There would be a tab that runs under the frame to mechanically lock it in place. The benifits would be increase ride height...but also a kinda cool laydown look for the shocks. Would need to cut threads, etc...make sure the shock doesn't interfere with chain guard....I'll do some measuring! NI
 
Don't sweat it Nick I have you coverd. What I am going to do is make a clevis looking thing. It will slide up into the shock with recessious holding the shock from rotating. (Kind of like a boss) Then with a regular shock looking clevis that will straddle the swingarm. Kind of hard to explain without a picture. Oh I'm making it out of Stainless Steel so it will polish up nice too.
 
I'm smiling!! :)
Before moving to Colorado I hung with a guy named Mike Worshum...he could make anything and it's sounds like you're in the same boat. Thanks, looking forward to it...and make a few extra, sounds like we have some interest in a little rear ride height...

All...I kinda described the "thinning" of the rear-brake acuator...the inside portion with the backing plate. If you don't narrow it, the swingarm hits it at full extension, at least on the '80 S models with the rearsets. Actually, this grinding job illustrates the uppermost limits of my metal-working abilities!! I'll try and post a pic soon.

Thanks again Norm....NI
 
I've seen this style used before - because the orientation is offset, the shock can't fold over on the extension;

600x423-2012091900009-4_zps39c7c1d6.jpg
 
Hmm...that's a neat piece. Really looking forward to Norm's solution too.

One thing I looked at was "removing" the bottom clevis from the shock body, but I think I would need to cut it off and was unsure what problems that would create, and then how do I re-attach a longer clevis?

Fun to mess with, thanks for the pic. I'm going to get pics of the grinding I did to the rear-brake actuator, and also some ride-height pieces I made and installed on another bike of mine...NI
 
Yes... you are trusting a 6mm bolt with all of the forces (or that skinny bit of plate..)

Not for me....

Get some longer shocks & keep the old ones for prosperity. Hagons look virtually identical to stock anyway.

Also don't forget that any change in the height back there has an effect on steering stability.... :) (use works shocks that are about 0.5" over & that works fine..)
 
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