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Rear Wheel Removal - Final Drive Unit - Hub/Spine Greasing

  • Thread starter Thread starter growler
  • Start date Start date
G

growler

Guest
Here are some photos of my exposed final drive unit, hub & spline. Also included the photos of the spline on the wheel Is it just me or does it look kinda dry in there? Notice any damage?

Need to grease for sure. Is Honda Moly 60 still the way to go?

E95FE33A-FF32-4A86-A746-0580CE03C0CD_zpsdswojpql.jpg


D11008C9-0EC0-4C5D-9B84-F32E574B74B9_zpsr31i0umf.jpg


CB7E5BC6-45B8-4608-8996-5A5DC5C8C6CD_zpse01ycurx.jpg


73D9AFCD-374D-4C55-9B17-1F107825C93E_zpsv79fknus.jpg


362463B0-0B49-488A-8C28-B2CF1E71DFEB_zpsjyb03mqd.jpg


55B3CCC3-096D-411B-A367-AEB24D84CAB1_zpswnzqja04.jpg


EA05A8E1-1B95-4CD0-9F21-1FB8DE684D66_zps8bcp7vn2.jpg
 
I definitely want to clean out that wheel hub area and inspect the teeth, what should I spray in there?

Anything else I should disassemble and inspect? Bearings?
 
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Those splines look good.

Yes to the Honda Moly 60. Accept no substitutes! I got my tube from Amazon, not sure it's sold there any more: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51wuSKv1vFL._SL1000_.jpg

I'd tend toward brake cleaner except you don't want to mess up that seal. Maybe Simple Green and a rag wrapped around a popsicle stick?

You can't disassemble the bearings but you can check them. They should rotate very smoothly with little effort and no play.

Now might be a good time to check swingarm bearings too but I've never done that myself so I'm not qualified to explain how. :)
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll avoid any cleaners that may damage the seal.

Honda Moly 60 I'll try to pick up locally. ;)

eil said:
Those splines look good.

Yes to the Honda Moly 60. Accept no substitutes! I got my tube from Amazon, not sure it's sold there any more: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51wuSKv1vFL._SL1000_.jpg

I'd tend toward brake cleaner except you don't want to mess up that seal. Maybe Simple Green and a rag wrapped around a popsicle stick?

You can't disassemble the bearings but you can check them. They should rotate very smoothly with little effort and no play.

Now might be a good time to check swingarm bearings too but I've never done that myself so I'm not qualified to explain how. :)
Click to expand...
 
I think a stiff round parts washer brush and some diesel would clean it up pretty easily.
 
There is some wear visible in the 2nd to last image. It's tricky to spot while installed on the wheel, since the face of the spline always looks undamaged. I wouldn't recommend degreasing it to get a better view, since you may end up degreasing the bearings too. Look past the face of the pline, or feel past it with a pick or piece of bent wire. You'll find a significant portion of the tooth is gone. A fresh one (or one from a year that doesn't wear out) will have the same profile the whole length of a tooth. The '82 bikes have the spline that will eventually wear out and fail, lube or no. If that one has 82K on it, it's doing very well. Bwringer, the resident expert on this topic (and many others), says they usually fail before 50K, IIRC.
 
Agreed -- I'm about 95% sure that driven spline (the one in the wheel) is toast. Can't really see in these pics, but you can see that the teeth are pretty worn. Once they start to wear, they deteriorate quickly from there.

Take it out and take a better look.

The teeth on the drive spline (the one on the bike's final drive) are somewhat damaged but I've seen worse. You'll be fine with a new driven spline in the wheel and a thin coat of moly paste on both.

It's very hard to judge color balance in digital photos, but it does look like your bike is wearing one of the "soft" gold splines found in 82-84 shafties. The new part is more of a silver color and has a smoother finish. The new driven spline (Suzuki calls it "JOINT ASSY DRIVEN") is still in production and used on Suzuki's Boulevard C50 cruiser, so it's easiest to just order a new one from your favorite source for Suzuki bits.

You can also haunt fleaBay for a rear wheel and/or driven spline from any 1990+ Suzuki shaftie 800-1200cc -- Intruder, C50, GSX1100G, VX800, Madura, etc. Obviously that takes longer, and shipping a rear wheel is crazy expensive (although sellers are sometimes willing to remove the spline and hardware and just send that to you).

$140, but it'll basically be bulletproof from now on:
http://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/64680-45113/joint-assy-driven

It's also worth replacing the lock washers and thrust plates, or at least flipping the old ones over and using a dab of moly paste on them.

And make sure you reinstall the bolts with Loctite. Even with the lock washers, they can back out without Loctite.
 
Last edited:
Well that sucks. I'll take a closer look tomorrow at the actual ridges on the wheel side spline and see the damage. Thanks for the advice.
 
Thanks for the input. I'll check it out and post results of looking closer....

bwringer said:
Agreed -- I'm about 95% sure that driven spline (the one in the wheel) is toast. Can't really see in these pics, but you can see that the teeth are pretty worn. Once they start to wear, they deteriorate quickly from there.

Take it out and take a better look.

The teeth on the drive spline (the one on the bike's final drive) are somewhat damaged but I've seen worse. You'll be fine with a new driven spline in the wheel and a thin coat of moly paste on both.

It's very hard to judge color balance in digital photos, but it does look like your bike is wearing one of the "soft" gold splines found in 82-84 shafties. The new part is more of a silver color and has a smoother finish. The new driven spline (Suzuki calls it "JOINT ASSY DRIVEN") is still in production and used on Suzuki's Boulevard C50 cruiser, so it's easiest to just order a new one from your favorite source for Suzuki bits.

You can also haunt fleaBay for a rear wheel and/or driven spline from any 1990+ Suzuki shaftie 800-1200cc -- Intruder, C50, GSX1100G, VX800, Madura, etc. Obviously that takes longer, and shipping a rear wheel is crazy expensive (although sellers are sometimes willing to remove the spline and hardware and just send that to you).

$140, but it'll basically be bulletproof from now on:
http://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/64680-45113/joint-assy-driven

It's also worth replacing the lock washers and thrust plates, or at least flipping the old ones over and using a dab of moly paste on them.

And make sure you reinstall the bolts with Loctite. Even with the lock washers, they can back out without Loctite.
Click to expand...
 
Just to recap on cleaners...I can use brake clean or diesel with a stiff brush? I have some kerosene on hand too.
 
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All my local dealers have gone from moly 60 to m-77. I'm assuming that's safe to use?

Sorry for all the questions, first time messing around this part of the bike. :)
 
I had to replace my wheel spline just this year, it had 36,000 miles on it. It gave me very little notice it was going bad. I was just pulling away from a stop then Zing. I knew immediately what it was. I pick one up from a GSR member. I got the black one from a 1980 or 81. If you get the earlier one, ask for the clips. There different that the 82 clips.
 
First double check with Chef to make sure he still has the needed spline. Thats who I bought mine from, he may have more... The "clips" that hold the spline in place on the 82 goes into a groove on spline. The older ones are more like a rectangular tab that holds the spline moving out(no groove) Kind of hard to explain. Maybe someone can elaborate a little more...
 
Hah, then it was you he sold it to. :) All good! I'll keep looking. Thanks for the info on the clips. I'll do my research before purchasing.

storm 64 said:
First double check with Chef to make sure he still has the needed spline. Thats who I bought mine from, he may have more... The "clips" that hold the spline in place on the 82 goes into a groove on spline. The older ones are more like a rectangular tab that holds the spline moving out(no groove) Kind of hard to explain. Maybe someone can elaborate a little more...
Click to expand...
 
Spent some time cleaning up the splines today, and they are in better shape than I thought. Here are some photos. Pretty hard to get good shots with my phone.

Got the rear tire mounted. Now onto the front.

7B98629D-D0FA-496B-A0E8-94621810D0D0_zpswdwhlccm.jpg


CB4F00A3-B689-4F23-B3DA-4A7EA4A9AF12_zpsnm6ujvsg.jpg


6FDB67E9-5109-45AD-B651-D9E636CED469_zpsolxdnrt9.jpg
 
My bad, I couldn't see any wear from your first set of photos. How deep is the wear on those splines?
 
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