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Resleeving a GS1150 Cylinder Block

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
derwood said:
quebec express;

too bad about some of the idiotic responses. lots of big hat no saddle stuff on this site at times

I don't know the answer to your question, so I did not reply.

Your english is fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks derwood! :)
 
chuck hahn said:
Just leave it alone and stay stock.
Click to expand...
That's your choice and I respect it.
However that does not mean that I will "leave it alone and stay stock". If that had been my intention, I would have never asked that question.
To each his own! :)
 
Max?

Max?

Okay, I have some info that may or may not help.
I have 3.290" sleeves in my 1150 block to work with the 1290 pistons.
I believe the absolute biggest is 3.350". The aluminum material between is very thin and don't know exactly how much but with just a very small amount of press will either stretch or just crack.
The bore Centers are 95mm so you could make a very strange twin if you wanted. There is a better solution. Bore out past the air gap and press then weld in aluminum sleeves. Bore those and then press in some larger sleeves if you want a big but not obvious engine. Another is the same trick but forego the iron sleeves and plate the bore instead.
But in the end, may it's best not to break through the alu. into the air gap. Sometimes the oil can seep out.
I think 85mm max for the 1150's. If it helps.
Laters
G
 
gmansyz said:
Okay, I have some info that may or may not help.
I have 3.290" sleeves in my 1150 block to work with the 1290 pistons.
I believe the absolute biggest is 3.350". The aluminum material between is very thin and don't know exactly how much but with just a very small amount of press will either stretch or just crack.
The bore Centers are 95mm so you could make a very strange twin if you wanted. There is a better solution. Bore out past the air gap and press then weld in aluminum sleeves. Bore those and then press in some larger sleeves if you want a big but not obvious engine. Another is the same trick but forego the iron sleeves and plate the bore instead.
But in the end, may it's best not to break through the alu. into the air gap. Sometimes the oil can seep out.
I think 85mm max for the 1150's. If it helps.
Laters
G
Click to expand...
That's EXACTLY the kind of information that I was looking for!
PM sent!
Thank you very much! :)
 
derwood said:
quebec express;

too bad about some of the idiotic responses. lots of big hat no saddle stuff on this site at times

I don't know the answer to your question, so I did not reply.

Your english is fine.
Click to expand...

"Big hat no saddle..." Good one.

I know im not throwin rocks at anyone about their English either. Mine seems to get worse month by month.
 
The 1260 sleeve is 3.275" OD. Years ago, the 4 valve limit in pro stock was 1294cc. That was a 79mm piston. The sleeve used was 3.300" I can't remember if we put that sleeve into 1100 blocks as it was a lot of years ago.

The reason that the breakthrough can be a problem, is that crankcase pressure can force oil up the outside of the sleeve and it only has to go less than 1/2" and it is out in the airstream.

On the big bore 750 Hondas, we get the breakthrough. Our fix is machining a counterbore in the bottom so we can force an o'ring in there. We make it deep enough for double o'rings.
 
Big Jay said:
The 1260 sleeve is 3.275" OD. Years ago, the 4 valve limit in pro stock was 1294cc. That was a 79mm piston. The sleeve used was 3.300" I can't remember if we put that sleeve into 1100 blocks as it was a lot of years ago.

The reason that the breakthrough can be a problem, is that crankcase pressure can force oil up the outside of the sleeve and it only has to go less than 1/2" and it is out in the airstream.

On the big bore 750 Hondas, we get the breakthrough. Our fix is machining a counterbore in the bottom so we can force an o'ring in there. We make it deep enough for double o'rings.
Click to expand...
Your insight is much appreciated!
Thank you!
 
Yup, oil leakage, I had lots with mine, really messy. Had the machine shop reinstall the sleeves with a good layer of threebond, no more leaks. I was told by a few that the weaker block around the sleeves would only make a difference if you were going turbo or nitrous etc. Mine has 170 - 190 psi compression cold/dry, no sealing or distortion problems.
 
The question made perfect sense as written...

Chuck you need to get out more! :D :p
 
gearhead13 said:
Yup, oil leakage, I had lots with mine, really messy. Had the machine shop reinstall the sleeves with a good layer of threebond, no more leaks. I was told by a few that the weaker block around the sleeves would only make a difference if you were going turbo or nitrous etc. Mine has 170 - 190 psi compression cold/dry, no sealing or distortion problems.
Click to expand...
Good info! :)
Do you know if they installed threebond in the whole bore, or only near the bottom portion to "clone" the OEM rubber o-ring set-up?
Thanks!
 
salty_monk said:
The question made perfect sense as written...

Oh yes and the guy's English is fine.
Click to expand...

At first, I thought so too but "some" of these replies made me second guess the "semantics" side of my question.

Thanks! :)
 
quexpress said:
Good info! :)
Do you know if they installed threebond in the whole bore, or only near the bottom portion to "clone" the OEM rubber o-ring set-up?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
No, they spread it over the entire length, I could see it at the breakthrough spots from the outside in between the bores. Very hard to see the breakthrough from the outside, hidden in between the bores.
 
gearhead13 said:
No, they spread it over the entire length, I could see it at the breakthrough spots from the outside in between the bores. Very hard to see the breakthrough from the outside, hidden in between the bores.
Click to expand...
Thank you! :)
 
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