Rolling restoration of a 850L

[Guest]

This came to me on the 22nd of November last year. Won it on ebay for a low price. It was the seat that swung it for me (not everybody's choice, I know) because my wife said she loved it and could probably sit on that quite comfortably. She had to give up riding with me some years ago due to her disabilities. She said she would only go up and down the road with me and that gives us both something to look forward to (although I know it will never happen).

This will be a rolling restoration with the goals of getting everything working, getting it road legal and then getting it registered in the UK (it's a US import) and only then will the cosmetics get some attention. The budget consists of a new roll of duck tape and some crayons.

On the journey home it fell over in the van and bust the twist grip (I must get better friends to help *sigh*) and the first thing I did was to see if it would run. I hooked up an old car battery, hot wired the ignition switch, threw some petrol in and it coughed a few times before all the petrol ran out of carbs 3 +4. That was enough to tell me the engine was good. When i removed the carbs the inlet rubbers fell apart.


The airbox rubbers were hard as hell too.


I rebuilt the kill switch, as it was sloppy. I Noticed the handlebars are from a Nighthawk and have been bent and straightened. I will replace eventually.

Tyre pressures seem ok.

Seat base has a rust hole. Will get it patched when it is recovered.

The tank is horrible, horrible, horrible but inside is clean and there are no leaks. I replaced the fuel pipes and it has an in-line filter in place.

Very little corrosion and needs a good clean.

The headlight will need a new lens as it is USA spec and designed for the wrong side of the road.

Not bad first day and quite pleased and very excited.

 

[Guest]

24Nov '15.

A complete Lock set arrived from ebay. I'd ordered these before I collected the bike. All changed over ( had to drill the tank cap). (except helmet lock, need to remove LH shock)

Fuel tank cleaned out + level sensor and tap. Took a while to figure out the working of the tap with no switch! Fuel gauge checked and working.

Fitted a bulb in the speedo housing.

New battery arrived, Hooked it up to Otimiser.

Ordered a list of new parts.

Rear brake lever has seized.

Other jobs done in November...
Fitted the battery.

Cleaned up the inlet manifold.

Cleaned the air filter out. Polished the chrome side covers. Air filter housing needs a respray.

Glued the throttle tube. We'll see if that holds.

Started to clean carbs.

Got the last of the old inlet manifolds off. cleaned faces and fitted new ones.


fitted carbs.

Fitted the little bits, battery strap, tank bush, indicator rubbers.

Borrowed some petrol from next door neighbour. Fitted the carbs and rigged up a petrol feed.Only had a short length of throttle cable to work with. Air box not connected.
Fired up quite easily and ran okay. All 4 pots seem to be working. Happy with that.

Changed the oil and fitted a genuine filter.

Cleaned out front master cylinder and bled the system. Seems to work okay.

Managed to get the rear brake pivot free. Bled the rear brakes. Rear brake light working fine.

Clumsily broke the throttle tube again while standing the bike up. DOH!
Ordered many more new parts.
​

 

[Guest]

December's work...
Soldered parts of front brake switch and got it working.

Cleaned out left hand switch pack. Areal pain to put back together again!

NewTyre(front) arrived.

3 Indicators arrived from eBay Germany. All look good but don't work,no power to them at all. Could be the indicator relay?

Fixed the gear position indicator harness. 3 snapped wires as it was too short due to the routing. Turns out that the bulbs are okay. Oh well,5 spares on the way from china.

Soldered up the clutch wiring too. that had been cut off and shorted. It would have been easier for PO to just join the wires, but no, they cut the harness. Now repaired.

Spent a while figuring out the fuse box while experiencing brain fade

Fitted new throttle tube and grips.
Got all 3 indicators fitted, but no flash .Checked the relay and it seemed ok (capacitor charging and discharging) but no flash. Made a physical adjustment to the contactor arm and went too far, nothing at all. Backed it off a little and bingo. Left hand side flashes. front right doesn't because there is only one of them. Back to ebay to find the other.

Started it up and found it wasn't charging. Felt 3 wires from reg/rec and they were warm to the touch. cleaned up the connectors and it seems to be charging.

Fitted a new cable. That stopped the noisy taco.

Left the ignition on and totally drained the battery. Totally! Brain fade getting worse. Left it hooked up to the Optimizer for a few days and it recovered completely. That was lucky.

Fitted new pilot light harness.

4th indicator arrived and fitted.

Made a throttle cable from brake pipe and solder and the old bicycle cable lying around. Seems to work okay.

Just call me MacGyver


Tried to revive air box rubbers (unsuccessfully).They are goosed.

Removed old front tyre,the rubber was so hard that I couldn't get it off with my hand tools and instead took the angle grinder to it. Also cut through inner tube, brain fade appears to be getting critical, (I'll say the tube was probably rotten too to make me feel better).

Replacedthe front wheelbearings.
[/

Couldn't get the bike to start. seems the tap doesn't flow.
Used the funnel and it ran well, Nice. Even with the 2 LHS inlets not tightened up. Ran better then.

Replaced blown speedo bulb.

Fixed clutch cut off switch, wasn't working due to worn copper slider.

More playing around with the fuel tap.

Got a friend to fit a new inner tube and fit tyre and balance. All for ?15.

Fitted the wheel when I got home, and then took it out for a run around the block. Everything seems to work okay.Seems to fluff a bit at revs but still running with open carbs.
BIGHAPPY SMILEY FACE.

Dating letter (proof of year of manufacture arrived from North Leicester M/C. Much Much Much cheaper than going through Suzuki.

Wasted a day going to pick up an airbox 'with good rubbers'. They turned out to be worse than mine!

Got the horns working. Took them off, banged them about and cleaned them then adjusted the set screw. Both now good.

Checked why dipped beam wasn't working. Disassembled the switchgear and the contactor was in wrong way round. My bad. All sorted.

Bike wouldn't start. Lack of fuel from the tank. Ran fine with the funnel.

While it was running on the funnel, balanced the carbs.Quite good to start with. runs fine. Still ran okay with the tank back on. ('it'sthe petcock' I hear you all cry)


Changed the oil in the final drive. Had to force an undersize socket on the filler nut as it was incredibly tight.

Changed the gear oil on the front drive. Horrible yucky crap. Started to polished the casings.

Fitted the clutch adjuster from the old XS project.Perfect fit. Another fiver saved.

Fitted new fuses.
Then it all went quiet for Christmas. ​

 

[Guest]

Well done so far MacGyver, you are clearly a man of some patience and fortitude...

 

[Charlie G]

Nice read. Sounds like you've got a bit of experience with a spanner. Vacuum petcocks are fun. I always like to mention to (new?) G owners to check the driven gear/hub ( rear spline) teeth and that it has Moly lube on it. Good luck!

cg

 

[eil]

Nice work so far, she'll be in halfway decent condition soon.

You're never going to live down that seat, though.

 

[ShadowFocus603]

I dig the Bosozoku seat. If you google that you'll get the reference.

Edit:
http://www.tofugu.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Bosozoku04-710x443.jpg

 

[Guest]

Well done so far MacGyver, you are clearly a man of some patience and fortitude...

If that means poorly funded then you are correct sir.

Nice read. Sounds like you've got a bit of experience with a spanner. Vacuum petcocks are fun. I always like to mention to (new?) G owners to check the driven gear/hub ( rear spline) teeth and that it has Moly lube on it. Good luck!

cg

I'm sorry, Mr G but you have put the words petcock and fun together in the same sentence.
*makes note about rear spline moly lube*

I dig the Bosozoku seat. If you google that you'll get the reference.

Edit:
http://www.tofugu.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Bosozoku04-710x443.jpg

I did the google thing as requested and thanks for that. it makes mine look like the sensible option. I knew the Japanese did that with their cars, but the bikes are news to me.

 

[Steve]

I'm sorry, Mr G but you have put the words petcock and fun together in the same sentence.
*makes note about rear spline moly lube*

Please ammend your note to the effect that "moly" lube only has to contain about 3 or 4% molybdenum disulphide to legally be called "moly". Splines need a very high percentage. Honda has a paste they call Moly 60 that comes in a small-size grease gun cartridge and only costs about $12 if you go to a Honda shop or a bit less if you shop online. If you have just the one shaft-driven bike, the one tube will be something you can will to your grandchildren. We happen to have six shafties in our stable, and I work on other bikes, so I have to get a new tube every 5 or 6 years.

.

 

[Guest]

Please ammend your note to the effect that "moly" lube only has to contain about 3 or 4% molybdenum disulphide to legally be called "moly". Splines need a very high percentage. Honda has a paste they call Moly 60 that comes in a small-size grease gun cartridge and only costs about $12 if you go to a Honda shop or a bit less if you shop online. If you have just the one shaft-driven bike, the one tube will be something you can will to your grandchildren. We happen to have six shafties in our stable, and I work on other bikes, so I have to get a new tube every 5 or 6 years.

.

Excellent Steve, thanks for that. Seems to be used in heavy plant equipment so I think I know where I can score a bit.

 

[Guest]

January jobs (still playing catchup).

January jobs (still playing catchup).

Fitted new reflector to replace the busted one on the right hand fork.

Found the chrome trim was a little bit out of shape but managed to persuade it back into shape with a block of wood and a tapometer.

The cheap pod filters from ebay arrived.The best I can say about them is that they fit.

Put some air in the rear tyre. I noticed some damage to the thread on the tube valve and had to use some ptfe tape and right angled adaptor before it would take any air. New valve would mean a new inner tube. That'll happen when a new tyre is needed.

​

I had a go at rejetting (wish I hadn't bothered) to accommodate the pods. I drilled out main jets to 130 using a 1.3mm drill.
Also raised the needles by replacing the spacer (measured at 2.54mm) with 3 washers (1.56mm combined)

all washers were painstakingly measured individually and collectively.
I checked the float heights while I was in there and their all about right.
While the carbs were off I removed and cleaned the cam chain tensioner. Refitted using the method described in these forums.

Everything refitted. Started it up and took a run around the block.
Ignore the old fat man, he's not integral to the plot...

Noticed an improvement overall but still not right. The induction noise, combined with the knowledge that it's quite difficult to rejet these engines without investing in a dynojet kit, was enough to convince me that standard spec is the way to go.

A pair of side panels arrived and were fitted with new rubbers.




Panels will get painted when the tank gets done.

​

 

[Guest]

that's it up to date

that's it up to date

New badges arrived from some guy in Thailand. Good quality and a bargain price. Only put them on to make sure they fit.



Did a bit of polishing. Only a first going over. I find that if I do one bit it makes the adjacent parts look bad so I do that next and so on.

For comparison...


Air box stripped and primed...




The cracks and folds in the construction of the box means it's difficult to get all of the water out even with an air line. Time and patience are the key.

What I like about the bike is that even when there are no parts to fit, nothing to fix and no money available there is always something to do.
Get the chrome polish out...

 

[Grimly]

Perhaps I missed it - but did you mention doing the valve clearances?
Vital to know what you're dealing with on these lumps.

 

[mikerophone]

Along for the ride. Just picked up and '82 850L with 12K miles myself. Was last registered in '92 and sat in a shed for the last 23 years and as such, has a fair amount of surface rust and pitting so it'll need a LOT of chrome polish and elbow grease.

I'll be posting up a thread when I start my resto later this spring but will be watching yours and ordering parts (like Steve's Honda Moly 60 :encouragement in the meantime.

 

[Guest]

Perhaps I missed it - but did you mention doing the valve clearances?
Vital to know what you're dealing with on these lumps.

No, you didn't miss it, I haven't done them. Yet. I haven't even fitted new spark plugs yet. At the moment it starts easily, runs well, idles well and is quiet. I plan to wait until the airbox is finished and new rubbers are fitted and then do them together with another carb sync and plugs.

 

[Grimly]

No, you didn't miss it, I haven't done them. Yet. I haven't even fitted new spark plugs yet. At the moment it starts easily, runs well, idles well and is quiet. I plan to wait until the airbox is finished and new rubbers are fitted and then do them together with another carb sync and plugs.

Oh, mine did all of that. With two inlets and two exhausts on the tight side - not closed-up tight, but tight enough. There was a difference afterwards. Come to think of it, the in/ex were evenly spread - each cylinder had a tight one.
Quiet isn't necessarily good on these - I'd rather have a slight but discernible valve lash noise than a silent one.

 

[eil]

I drilled out main jets to 130 using a 1.3mm drill.

I think I read that you were going back to stock, but as far as I understand this is not a kosher way to step up to larger jets!

Looking good overall, though!

 

[Guest]

It's been a hectic few days but have used the need for distraction to get a few jobs finished. First was to get the airbox stripped



and a couple of coats of hi-build primer


and finally painted. It's all rattle can stuff and it turned out all right. Much better than it was but maybe the cold had a part to play in the finish.
Then I fitted out new foam strips inside and on one chrome side due the original rubber perishing.

All new rubber hoses too. Lovely.

Carbs were returned to standard by replacing the washer set up with the original spacers and a new set of 115 main jets.

My head was only partially engaged, doing stupid things like fitting the tank before fitting the breather hose and noticing that I hadn't mounted the cables to their brackets.
It started up very easily and came off the choke very quickly with a nice idle. A quick trip up the road on a very cold and rainy afternoon brought a smile out. It pulled nicely and cleanly through the revs. I haven't got enough road to get passed third or fourth gear but it is the best it has ran yet by some distance. Also noticed that the gear indicator isn't working.

Before I packed up the day, I pulled the tank off to find the airbox had pulled the gear indicator connector apart during the fitting. Easy fix. Then I realised that I still hadn't fitted the breather hose. Once that was done I decided that was enough for one day, who knows what damage I could do with only half a brain working.

Edit- Forgot to mention that I fitted my second hand mirrors too. Picked a cheap pair on ebay that were listed for GN125. Same part number. All the joints needed freeing off but they're all good now. I think mirrors are needed if only to complete the look.

 

[Steve]

I drilled out main jets to 130 using a 1.3mm drill.

Was was your reference that said a 130 jet has a diameter of 1.3mm? :-k

Different jet manufacturers have different standards for measuring and labeling their jets, I am not sure that Mikuni is the one that labels them by diameter.

Either way, unless have some precision drilling equipment, I wouldn't trust drilling the jets, anyway. New jets are cheap enough to at least use some that are accurately made and properly labeled. Imagine the frustration of the next owner. He is going to possibly see that the bike is running a bit lean, take the bowls off the carbs, see "115" on the jets and increase them to 120s. Little would he know that he is going DOWN about four sizes in the process. Please do everyone a favor, remove those drilled jets and pitch them in the trash bin. Get some proper jets and continue with the "fun" of jetting.

.

 

[Guest]

Time to do a little bit a catching up on this thread.

Mainly been doing a lot of little jobs in various places but the biggy is the restoration of the seat. Once I had removed it, I unhooked the seat cover and removed the foam. What was left didn't look good and was going to need some repair of the welding kind. I thought the best thing to do was to get it shot blasted because my main man for welding usually complains 'what rusty crap have you brought me this time?' and I was able to reply 'it's not rusty'.



It was going to need a lot of work.



Unfortunately he was loaded with work and couldn't do it any time soon, same with the second guy I tried. Then I remembered another friend who had moved back to the area and of course he could do it. For free.