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scraped good enough?

I'm chiming in with another helpful personal experience post :p

Here it comes:
I use this stuff on the gasket remnants, as it does not hurt the metal (after removing most of it with a scraper). Kind of synthetic fleece.

41YepuKK6OL._AC_.jpg

Makes this

29309450908_a039348d40_z.jpg


look like this

28311349427_4d8ca7c109_z.jpg


Thanks to that Scotch Brite stuff my engine is leak free, and I support the oil industry only as much as I have to...
 
Never tried a wire wheel, but I do use a fine scotchbrite pad and WD-40.
I 2nd red Scotchbrite and WD-40 for a beautiful finish! Ive always used WD-40, fresh razor blades and a lot of patience on the gasket. VERY sparingly use YamahaBond #5 on the gasket.
 
ended up using a brass wire brush and the straight razor, wroked well, while it wasnt spotless it was damn near close. ive tightened it on and inspected all around the gasket lining to see that everything "looked" sealed, there was one rough spot i put jb weld on just incase, so itll be a few hours before i put oil in there to make sure theres no leaks. will triple inspect before putting oil. the one thing that may now suck is part of the oil pan is jb welded to fill in a dent, so if it does still leak, now i got jb weld to scrape aswell.


thanks for the brass wire suggestion and the others, the brass just came in handy since i already had a brush sitting around, that isnt brand new so it wasnt as rough.
 
good news, no leaks, probably didnt need the jb weld for it, got to install the exhaust agin this time with washers, kinda messed up and stripped 2 of the screws (the head) so those 2 dont sit too tight, you cant loosen them with ur hand but its still not as well as they were. buddy said he could redrill to go a size up and i do trust him he has grown up in a machine shop and builds his own boat trailers from scratch, while that isnt a bike, he knows his tools and crafts well.

what do you guys think? i thought of just locktight or getting a bolt a size longer, but i am not the one with the brains in this situation.

very happy my pan isnt leaking anymore, will possibly be fitting my intake side of things today.
 
Use a timesert or helicoil. That way, you hardly need worry about ever again stripping them.
If you just go a size up, you've already reached the max you can go.
 
If you have just stripped the threads and have easy access then Helicoil the threads rather than drilling oversize and having a stepped stud.
 
Hereafter, seriously consider a small torque wrench that does Inch/lbs. I'm sure mine has saved me from stripping things many times and paid for itself over and over.
 
gonna just put this out there because i can only learn if somebody tells me im wrong, whats the correct exhaust bolt size? i have m7 1.0 bolts in there, it seemed okay, but not necessarily right
 
M8 x 1.25 if I recall correctly. Let someone else confirm before you buy (or try to fit) replacements.
 
Last edited:
I think I gave you the wrong info - go with M8 x 1.25. I'll edit my previous post.
 
Don't go oversize. Use a Helicoil or Keensert and throw those exhaust bolts in the trash and install studs! You won't strip the threads in the head ever again! Just my .02 worth.
 
Don't go oversize. Use a Helicoil or Keensert and throw those exhaust bolts in the trash and install studs! You won't strip the threads in the head ever again! Just my .02 worth.

just found out what they were, i like the idea of them i think ill have to go with it.
 
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