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SERIES R/R Infared evidence of drop in Temperatures

posplayr

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
This is of a Compufire R/R but expect similar results with the Cycle Electrics. You mileage will vary but this shows direct evidence of lower temperatures at both the R/R and the stator as previously reported.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR A Warm Running 16V GS1100/1150. For you naysayers out there. There is a significant temperature drop if you are running stock in the 250-270 degF range (My 1166 went down to 210-220 degF max).

this is for an aprila but shows back to back temperature drops using a SERIES R/R
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2845062&postcount=460


Assuming all other factors being equal, a drop of 16.3C at the stator cover appears to confirm that the series R/R makes a considerable difference in reducing load on the stator and thus heat produced.
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NEWS FLASH READ ABOUT THE NEW COMPU-FIRE 3 PHASE SERIES R/R TO SOLVE YOUR GS CHARGING Woes
COMPU FIRE THREAD
 
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Sorry Jim, but I still don't believe a series R/R will drop oil temp by 40 - 50 F...and this coming from someone that has one. I rode my bike yesterday and the temp came up same as before my Compufire was installed; my commute is 6 miles and in that time the oil temp peaks in the 200F range, roughly same as with the FET R/R my bike had before. I do believe the temp is lower with the new R/R, and the engine temp will follow to some extent, but to "what extent" is the real question.
 
Sorry Jim, but I still don't believe a series R/R will drop oil temp by 40 - 50 F...and this coming from someone that has one. I rode my bike yesterday and the temp came up same as before my Compufire was installed; my commute is 6 miles and in that time the oil temp peaks in the 200F range, roughly same as with the FET R/R my bike had before. I do believe the temp is lower with the new R/R, and the engine temp will follow to some extent, but to "what extent" is the real question.

I guess your mileage varied :rolleyes:

I already reported mine
 
I've been watching the oil temp gauge since the cycle electric RR install.

Don't know if I was as observant before the install, however it seems as though it doesn't get as hot as fast as it used to, and it seems to hover closer to the 220 mark even after hard riding, whereas before it could get up to the 230-240 range.


Mods are pods, 4-2 (kerker high flow), 1150 cams, stock ignition, stock coils, relay mod, no oil cooler and dyno oil. I've never seen a temp at or below 210 on the bike at full operating temperature.

Bike is not full stock, but I seem to get a more progressive and stable temperature reading than premod.

Nic
 
If I understand all this correctly then the series RR mostly only goes open circuit in the 5k+ rev range? (when stator is throwing out a lot of power).

If I'm correct on that them surely it will only produce lower temps on a bike being ridden at high RPM?

If this is the case then it could easily be the reason temp results are varying I think.
 
If I understand all this correctly then the series RR mostly only goes open circuit in the 5k+ rev range? (when stator is throwing out a lot of power).
If your bike is only charging at 5k+, you have other problems.

As I understand it, the Compufire regulates by opening the circuit, instead of shorting (shunting) to ground. My stock (and Honda and FET) regulators start doing their jobs at about 2000-2500 rpm, so I would imagine that the Compufire would have to start regulating about the same time.

Just my guess, I have not (yet) installed a Compufire regulator in a GS.
I have a Compufire alternator in my Wing, wouldn't have it any other way. :D

.
 
Mine kicks in at about 1,800 RPM. I was more interested in getting the Compufire installed than doing comparisons but it definitely runs cooler. I will have to get A temp. gauge for my Son's 850G and do comparisons because we will eventually put a Compufire on that bike also.
 
I've been watching the oil temp gauge since the cycle electric RR install.

Don't know if I was as observant before the install, however it seems as though it doesn't get as hot as fast as it used to, and it seems to hover closer to the 220 mark even after hard riding, whereas before it could get up to the 230-240 range.


Mods are pods, 4-2 (kerker high flow), 1150 cams, stock ignition, stock coils, relay mod, no oil cooler and dyno oil. I've never seen a temp at or below 210 on the bike at full operating temperature.

Bike is not full stock, but I seem to get a more progressive and stable temperature reading than premod.

Nic

Not sure why but the easter guys seems to run cooler. With an 1166 kit and before the CF I seldom ran below 270 as measured on my ED temp gauge one up to steady state temp in summer conditions.

After the CF, my full operating temps dropped noticeable as I reported before.

On smaller bikes, it will apparently not make as much difference, however having had the stock 1074 (72mm) and then the 1166(75mm) the heat dissipation of the bike is starting to hit a limit. The Seriers R/R brought me back to lower temps than even the 1074 had run before.

There maybe accuracy problems with theED gauges in terms of absolution temp, but it is the drop in temp that seems to be more consistent.
Wheat dog reported this before

UPDATE; Wheat dog has confirmed a nominal 30 degF drop in operating temp for an 83 GS1100ED with 1166 kit after making this change over to the Compufire-Fire R/R
Installed Compufire RR - Way Cool!!


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=162677

On my last Trip with Chef1366 he had a very similar setup to mine except he had a 1230 v.s my 1166, he stayed quite a bit hotter throughout the trip. The highest I reached was on a slow construction road in Kings Canyon where I think he was pegging 300 degF on his VDO gauge and I came up to about 220-230 if I recall. So the whole time I was generally running 50+ deg cooler , you cant explain all of that difference between the 1166 v.s 1230. He also has an oil cooler that is bigger than mine. I have been running one off of a 550 and he had a good sized Kerker?? I think.
 
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Guess I'm a doubting Thomas because I want to see the level of temp reduction while performing back to back tests using the same bike on the same day. I'm going to see if Dan has a spare R/R I can borrow (sold off my FET to a member here).
 
Guess I'm a doubting Thomas because I want to see the level of temp reduction while performing back to back tests using the same bike on the same day. I'm going to see if Dan has a spare R/R I can borrow (sold off my FET to a member here).

Ed,
All of there results have been reported for an 16V 1166 kit where heating becomes a much greater concern. A 1074 will probably also see a difference as niclpnut reported. Some guys on the east coast report stock 1100E's without oil coolers riding normally at about 210 degrees. On a cool day mine would perhaps do that, but after the 1166 there was a 20-30 degree increase in operating temperature.

Anything at 1166 and above I would strongly recommend the modification if not for the electrical to cool the engine down.

We are also not talking about a putting in a 6 mile commute at surface road speeds, we are talking about operating temp; say 1/2 hour minimum in 5th gear at 75-80 mph in 95 degrees heat. Now climb the Grapevine 6% grade in 4th at the same speed; what happens to the temp?

Jim
 
Jim, you are mixing apples with oranges. The bike doesn't run hotter just because the bore size is bigger, or if the bike is capable of making more power. The modded bikes extra power would make the bike run hotter only if you are demanding more power from the bike than the stock bike is capable of producing - during high rpm and high throttle application.

To test the stator's contribution to engine heat some steady speed freeway cruising should suffice. I'm thinking run the bike around with the compufire R/R until the temp stops increasing, then switch to the shunt R/R and go back out on the road and take note of any temp increase from there. According to what you are saying there should be a significant oil temp increase. I don't doubt that there will be an increase but quantifying that increase is what makes me wonder.
 
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Jim, you are mixing apples with oranges. The bike doesn't run hotter just because the bore size is bigger, or if the bike is capable of making more power. The modded bikes extra power would make the bike run hotter only if you are demanding more power from the bike than the stock bike is capable of producing - during high rpm and high throttle application.

To test the stator's contribution to engine heat some steady speed freeway cruising should suffice. I'm thinking run the bike around with the compufire R/R until the temp stops increasing, then switch to the shunt R/R and go back out on the road and take note of any temp increase from there. According to what you are saying there should be a significant oil temp increase. I don't doubt that there will be an increase but quantifying that increase is what makes me wonder.

Ed,
Perhaps you don't realize, I rode my 1166 on a 2000 mile trip and got a pretty good idea on how riding conditions affected the OE temperature gauge of the bike. I then put the CF in and immediately saw the differences I quoted.
Wheatdog did a similar test and he reported it in his thread.
Controlling the test any more is not going to change the basic result.
You can believe it or not.
Jim
 
It may also vary a lot depending on the oil level at the time. I don't have a problem imagining a few watts of power going into a gallon of oil raising the temps a noticeable amount.
 
It may also vary a lot depending on the oil level at the time. I don't have a problem imagining a few watts of power going into a gallon of oil raising the temps a noticeable amount.

over all those miles I have had a variety of oil conditions and I have had a show chrome multi meter which shows both in cab and out of cab ambient temperatures
 
Ed,

I have spare RR but only a stocker not FET if you want to run some tests.

Guys - I realise the RR starts work lower than 5k but I remember reading Pos's analysis that puts the "stator burnup" zone at 5k+ revs, from this I assume this is the point when the RR is working hard and would have biggest effect on temps no??

Dan
 
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