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Series Regulator Source SH775

niclpnut

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Honda CBR1000RR 05? Shindengen SH775 12V Series 35 Amps rating, 14.0 - 15.0V



Didn't seem like anyone was really sure what bikes came stock with the Shindengen SH775 series regulators.

I was helping a friend with his Polaris RZR 800 side by side and by chance I happened to ask him about the charging system. He showed me the regulator which is the same form factor as the FH0012 regulators.

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He had a spare which he was kind enough to give me to test on my bike. (I have not installed or tested it as of yet)

There are some floating around on ebay and can be found for $65 retail from: http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/fiche_select1.asp?cat=Utility+Vehicles&mfg=Polaris&mfg1=Polaris&partnumber=4012941++

3 Phase, 35amp, Series From 2011 Polaris RZR 800 or Rangers


I know the Compu-fire units are great (I have one) but this may be a solid alternative for those of us pinching pennies!

Nic
 
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Ordered!

Hopefully all will go well. We'll see if it affects engine temp like the CompuFire.
 
This series type doesn't keep the stator at max output creating a built-in block heater like the stock unit does.
 
Will be watching this with interest. :)

I'm already setup with the correct connections (FH012) so will make it a very easy switch.

Please post results with regards to temperature. I think the only true way to test if it really is series is to use a Scope like Posplayr did....

:)
 
Unless yours fails, you already have one of the best 50amp Shindengen, why would you want to swap, or is it for a backup source or for other bikes due to availability and cost, I have the FH014, that one and the one you have already have the same heatsink in addition to being able to handle any heat output our systems care to toss at it compared to the factory 18amp tiny heat sink jobs.

According to professor Posplyer, a series R/R protects your stator from cooking itself by eliminating current shunting back to the stator. Jim says the lack of shunting keeps the stator cool, which in part reduces oil temperature as well. I have a compufire and a FH009 and plan to perform an oil temperature comparison test to see if my bike responds the way Jim suggests.

If this Shindengen SH775 is a true series R/R for $65 new, it would seem to be a great value.
 
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I've read somewhere, most of the newer Shindengen FH series RR's do just that, and the FH020 that I mentioned earlier is supposed to be the leading RR in the market that does that and more. Can't remeber where the tech article I read was, been looking for it again, I only just read it the other day...old age sux;)
Anything that can protect the stator as well, well hell fire, count me in!!

The FHXXX units are shunting R/R's. That FH020 may be the type that shuts itself off if over temperature is detected, but that's for self preservation, not for protection of the stator.
 
Do have any sort of link verifying that the SH775BA is a series regulator?
 
That's a parts catalogue. Trust me, they have been known to be wrong on quite a few occasions.

Possibly someone who has a storage O-scope could post up some wave forms to see if in fact it really is a series regulator? I for one would like to use it on my 78 if it really is a series reg.
 
I've got 2 of them on hand. Would be happy to send one to somebody with the right equipment to test.

Nic
.
 
I've got 2 of them on hand. Would be happy to send one to somebody with the right equipment to test.

Nic
.
I'm thinking Jim (Posplayr) would be the one that would be best equipped to handle that as He has a D.S.O. (digital storage...)
 
One question: Does that SH775 have enough current capacity?
 
14amp with no cooling might be tight but I think it should be ok.... The 27 or 35 amp should be enough for sure.

Usually there is a margin of safety built into the figures and my bike is rarely running stood still (plus I wonder if the stator can supply 14amp at idle in any case)

I've read of others using the 35A shunt shindengens without issue (even installed one on my 1000g for its next owner... :)
 
Looks like PosPlayer (Jim Moore) found that the alternator windings saturate at 27A @ approximately 3000rpm, by which time you should have more than the 1m/s (2.2mph)airflow required to keep things happy. Unless you are holding your revs at 3000 or more at a standstill in which case you get what you deserve.
 
What do you do for wiring connections to these? Will a female bullet connector just plug in? Or is there any source from electronics catalogs for plugs that fit these?

Very anxious to hear about how these install and function, as my budget cannot afford a Compufire or CE-600/601/602 etc
 
Female spade connectors fit right in. You would just need to fill the cavity with some electrical RTV/Silicone.

You can purchase plugs and or a full harness from http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html

or from numerous other sources. Ebay has a seller of connectors too. Maybe able to find them cheaper.

I am going the route of making my own wires (since I have a whole electrical connection kit) and filling the cavity with RTV.

Nic
 
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