SH775 Install Diagram

[grcamna2]

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[Nessism]

Do you need to cut the end off the harness for the triump on the non sha775 end to attach bullet connectors? Or do you attach triump ends to the bikes harness?

The Triumph harness has the connectors to match the SH775 on one end and what I assume are connectors specific to Triumph bikes on the other end. You need to cut off the triumph harness connectors and either attach bullets/spades or better yet, solder the wires to those on your bike. And please be sure to follow the diagram which shows how the stator wires are fed directly into the R/R.

 

[Guest]

The Triumph harness has the connectors to match the SH775 on one end and what I assume are connectors specific to Triumph bikes on the other end. You need to cut off the triumph harness connectors and either attach bullets/spades or better yet, solder the wires to those on your bike. And please be sure to follow the diagram which shows how the stator wires are fed directly into the R/R.

Thank you, this clarified exactly what I was wondering about.

The bullet connector wires to the stator, do they go straight to the stator? Or do I need to run all new wires all the way from the stator?

 

[cowboyup3371]

The Stator has its own wiring that you will connect it to

 

[Mafiera]

Is this test done with bike ticking over because when I rev it goes above 0.3

 

[Killer2600]

Is this test done with bike ticking over because when I rev it goes above 0.3

Yes, this test has to be done with the bike running/charging.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Is this test done with bike ticking over because when I rev it goes above 0.3

To which test are you referring? All of the stator tests of which I am aware are performed at 5000 RPM, not tick-over (idle). What are you measuring at .3? .3 what? I'm not an electrical expert (not even a novice), so my questions are just as much to clarify this info in my own brain, as they are to maybe help anyone else trying to diagnose charging issues.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

This may help with the connections
This is using the Triumph link lead


Triumph part# T2500676.


Cut off the two small plugs then carefully split the harness so you have one plug with two brown and two black wires twist the Browns together likewise with the blacks so you now have a plug with one brown and one black so to speak.
The brown connects to the red wire in the bikes harness where the original rectifier/regulator red connected to, know as the T connection on various posts on here.
The black connects to the single point ground see many posts on here or just use the search facility for information.
The three blacks on the other plug connect to the three wires that come from the stator it does not matter which wire connects to which ( there is no polarity)
All joints where twisted together soldered and shrink wrapped.
The two left over wires in the bikes harness can be taped up and tucked away as they were for the handle bar loop and are not in use now.

 

[Guest]

I just did this process (the R/R is just dangling besides the bike though, the holes doesn't fit, Ill strips it to test and then figure out how to make new holes in the bike afterwards).

I checked the stator, all pairs were like 67 volts at like 3-4000 rpm. After installing it I got charging current up to 14.82 but it didn't increase after that even as revs increased.

Does this mean I am all good? Apart from having to solder the wires (I just used quick clips that is meant for indoor lamps to quickly hold everything).

I forgot to messure the resistance though, got caught up with the brake light being useless.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

I think your stator tests are generally within tolerance perhaps a tad low, I believe is 80 v ac maximum from the stator. 14.5 v dc at 5000rpm is ideal. At the moment your readings are ok but test again at 5000rpm if you get the same it's ok if it rises considerably then you could boil the battery, it could be your multimeter is reading a little high.
As for the holes some have filled out the rectifier personally I do not favour that more so if it is under guarantee on the 850 I took out the battery box and removed the existing bracket that the Oem rectifier was fitted to and made a new bracket out of aluminium Then riveting it back onto the battery box I also angled it so that it made it easier to remove the plugs.
Or remove the battery box and just file the holes to suit the rectifier.

 

[Nessism]

I just did this process (the R/R is just dangling besides the bike though, the holes doesn't fit, Ill strips it to test and then figure out how to make new holes in the bike afterwards).

I checked the stator, all pairs were like 67 volts at like 3-4000 rpm. After installing it I got charging current up to 14.82 but it didn't increase after that even as revs increased.

Does this mean I am all good? Apart from having to solder the wires (I just used quick clips that is meant for indoor lamps to quickly hold everything).

I forgot to messure the resistance though, got caught up with the brake light being useless.

14.82 VDC with a SH775? That's a touch high, but not alarmingly so.

 

[Guest]

14.82 VDC with a SH775? That's a touch high, but not alarmingly so.

Yes it was a SH775.

I am not sure what setting the volt measure thing was on, I am a bit confused by them. I think the number was 20. The metre I am using is like, super cheap so I am not sure about its accuracy either.

The battery was completely full though (charged over night).

It seems my wiring harness in general is in a somewhat poor condition. The bullet connector for the fuel gauge broke off, and the wires for the rear lamp is barely attached (like visible partially broken wire several places).

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Do you know anyone that has a multimeter that you can use to compare the readings with yours? The meter should be set on dc 20 volt range

 

[Peter#1266]

Havent done the Shindengen R/R yet although its o the list. One thing I have done with the standard R/R is to mount it on a bracket on the frame tubes just below the steering head where it gets a decent blast of cooling air. It seemed to me that the standard position under the battery box is a bit shrouded as far as cooling goes.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Havent done the Shindengen R/R yet although its o the list. One thing I have done with the standard R/R is to mount it on a bracket on the frame tubes just below the steering head where it gets a decent blast of cooling air. It seemed to me that the standard position under the battery box is a bit shrouded as far as cooling goes.

Whin I fitted the sh775 it was mounted under the battery box been there for 4-5 years including a two week trip to Portugal and Spain in July 40d+ had no problems with it.

 

[Guest]

Do you know anyone that has a multimeter that you can use to compare the readings with yours? The meter should be set on dc 20 volt range

I am sure I could get a hold of one that is more reputable.

If the voltage still reads to high, what would be the diagnosis? A DOA sh775, a fake sh775, a stator problem. an install issue or something else?

As far as I can tell the issues I had before with fuses blowing when using the kill switch, bulbs dying and dimming lights when braking has seceded. It is hard to be definite about the dimming lights because it is't dark here at all now.

The seller is reputable and the device has the letters printet correctly like expected.

This weekend I am visiting a friend and staying at his parents home, they strike me as the kind of people that have a voltmetre I can borrow. I will see what I can do.

As for the heat issue, four-five years isn't enough. The original shunt survived since 1981, if the sh775 fails before 2061 I will write a strongly worded post here warning about its shortcomings

 

[fastbysuzuki]

I am sure I could get a hold of one that is more reputable.

If the voltage still reads to high, what would be the diagnosis? A DOA sh775, a fake sh775, a stator problem. an install issue or something else?

i would get the loan of another multimeter and see what the readings are first before moving on.