SH775 install frustrations

[pdqford]

. Realize, of course, that these original wires are more than large enough to carry the current the stator can produce. For the attachment, I'd solder them. .

Thanks for confirming that Ed. I wasn’t sure the original stator wires were up to the task.
Since they are adequate, hopefully, I will end up with no splices and the only crimp & solder joint (belt and suspenders will be at the Triumph connector.

 

[pdqford]

Which leads me to. Have you tested your stator output? Do you know that your stator is still good? What usually happens is the connectors melt, corrode, causing resistance and takes out the stator. Some people will replace the stator at this point prophylactically, even if it tests as good. Just food for thought.

Last time I tested the stator output all three legs read 72.x ohms.
Not quite up to spec but, with these changes, should be enough to keep the battery up.

P.S. Monday, 7:30AM, I go in the hospital for a “chemically induced” nuclear stress test (what ever that is)!
Worrying about my Zuki keeps my mind off other things.
So, I appreciate all the help and advice the forum provides.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Jim, best of luck with your medical issues. Take your time with the bike. I've always found shop time on the bike to be a great stress reliver and escape from stuff.

 

[Grimly]

Last time I tested the stator output all three legs read 72.x ohms.
Not quite up to spec but, with these changes, should be enough to keep the battery up.

Better to check the stator leg to leg at 5000rpm, should be 70-ish V AC.
I had one that checked out fine on the ohmeter, but was defective under load.

 

[pdqford]

Better to check the stator leg to leg at 5000rpm, should be 70-ish V AC.
I had one that checked out fine on the ohmeter, but was defective under load.

My bad again Dave. I should have said all three legs read 72.x VAC, not ohms

 

[pdqford]

Jim, best of luck with your medical issues. Take your time with the bike. I've always found shop time on the bike to be a great stress reliver and escape from stuff.

Thank You for the kind words, Rich.

 

[Grimly]

My bad again Dave. I should have said all three legs read 72.x VAC, not ohms

Should be good to go, then.

 

[pdqford]

I have studied the wiring diagram for my 1980 GS750ET.. It seems to me ALL the current to run the bike must travel up to the ignition switch AND THEN back to the glass fuse block, and then from THERE it can then go out to the various circuits. No wonder I was experiencing recurring voltage drops. Seems like I was always cleaning connections and polishing those glass fuses.

Okay, now I have sketched out (see below) how I plan to rewire the left side electrical panel on the bike. I think with these changes the trip up to the ignition switch and back will have a minimal amount of current on that leg. (When the bike is running that circuit will only have to support the current to energize the new 30 amp relay (about 0.2 amps) or if the ignition switch is switched to the park position to run the 8 watt tail light (about 0.7 amps)).

Just wanted to know if I am overlooking something on this project so looking forward to hearing comments.

(The most frustrating task so far is trying to get my diagram loaded on flickr and attached to this post! I have given up trying to rotate the picture so it is easier to view.)

 

[pdqford]

Okay, I found if I take a picture of my modified wiring diagram with my ipad, and mail it to my laptop I can get a better picture loaded to flickr that is right side up and I *think* can be enlarged by clicking on the picture to make it even bigger when viewed in the forum. Here's hoping!

Diag 2.31 by pdq ford, on Flickr

 

[Guest]

Well nuts. I was going to post to a new thread, but this one is just too timely.

I have a 82 GS 450A and made an aluminum bracket to replace the old rectifier.
This bumps out the new one about 1/4" of an inch.
Then I mounted it to the new bracket.

The relay. I made a couple of bushings to drop it about 20mm and used new bolts.

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[Guest]

And this is what the template looked like. Nothing fancy.
I probably could have raised the whole thing a 3/16" of an inch for more clearance, but it all fits.
1/4" thick aluminum (jigsaw and lube cuts it easily)

Old holes were drilled and counter sunk for 6 x 1 x 16 mm screws to hold the bracket to the old mounting holes.

Placed and drilled through all the way for new 6 x 1 x 30 screws to hold the new rectifier on. I just installed them from the back. (note if you thread the holes in the new bracket you can screw these in and they wont turn when trying to put on the nuts to hold on the new rectifier.

Then some 1/4 x 3/4 bushings to drop down the relay.

The hardest part was de-pinning the old harness to keep the terminals. I HATE DE-PINNING!!!!!!!

Alt

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[pdqford]

Nice job!
Some Suzuki models don’t have much real estate available on the electrical panel.

I like your home made mini fuse holder.

 

[Guest]

Does the job the big boys do, but costs a whole lot less.