Both same at 27deg iirc.
That bike in the picture has G forks and yokes. If you simply fit G forks to your L yokes, you screw up the trail figure, and bash the fuel tank if you want to fit the GS 850 tank.
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Both same at 27deg iirc.
That bike in the picture has G forks and yokes. If you simply fit G forks to your L yokes, you screw up the trail figure, and bash the fuel tank if you want to fit the GS 850 tank.
G
Guest
Guest
So the L yokes will foul on the G tank irrespective of fork choice, yes?
Trail figure is a new term to me, but it appears to refer to the offset between the front axle line and the center line of the fork pivot point (on bicycles, called the headset.) Is this correct?
Steve
GS Whisperer
The engine itself is the same, but there is a slightly different gear in the transmission to compensate for the 16" (vs. 17") rear wheel.
No, the rake angle is the same. Not sure exactly what the angle is, but there is no difference between the G and the GL.
YES. The angle from the center of a G fork tube to the steering stem and back to the other fork tube is sharper than the same angle through a GL yoke.
To acheive the desired effect (longer-looking "chopper-esque" forks), Suzuki left the front wheel pretty much exactly in the same place, but moved the fork tubes back by flattening the angle on the yokes. This allowed the fork tubes to be behind the axle, so they could be made a few inches longer, giving the impression of a "chopper" that was popular at the time. Because the fork tubes were brought back about an inch, they would hit the tank at full lock. Suzuki "fixed" that by installing a smaller, peanut-shaped tank (also popular at the time) and moving it back a couple of inches on the frame.
I can't verify the bicycle terminology, but I think you have the concept. :encouragement:
"Trail" is the distance from where the center of the steering stem (not the fork tubes) hits the ground to the point directly under the axle. Because the tire is behind the apparent pivot point, it imparts some stability by wanting to pull the tire straight. The greater the distance, the more 'pull' there is, but there is also more effort required to initiate a turn. On the other hand, shortening the trail will make it easier to turn, but you might lose some stability in the process. A happy figure for most street riding is around 4 inches.
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I recently posted this in the seat de-hump thread. I am 6'3" and the L configuration just had me too cramped. And I also didn't care for the look of the L. Besides comfort I wanted it to look like a stock bike to people who don't visit this great site.
sam000lee
Forum Mentor
Where did you get that seat? It looks like it uses the original seat pan but with a very professional looking cover replacement.
I recently posted this in the seat de-hump thread. I am 6'3" and the L configuration just had me too cramped. And I also didn't care for the look of the L. Besides comfort I wanted it to look like a stock bike to people who don't visit this great site.
It is the original seat pan. I took the old cover off and sanded/shaved the rear hump down. Than I added foam to the front to match the rear to the contour I wanted. I then shipped it to Sargent where they cut off the top inch or more and bonded their super cell foam. I picked a new seat cover they offered that resembled a 1973 Kawasaki Z1 900 seat which I always liked and they installed that. It wasn't cheap but I got the bike for free and I just wanted the seat to look like it came from the factory that way.
I think The GS550E tank can be made to fit the GL model with a bit of fabrication. Pianomandan or something similar had that mod done to his 850 from memory. You could always put some clearance into a G tank by pushing the corners in... and possibly put some bolts into threaded holes in the steerer stops to retard the lock to lock a bit... that look would also suit the planned Hooped rear end. 17" rear wheel and new shocks is easy.
New bars are easy & cheap. The bikemaster ones work. Daytona or Euro bend are good choices.
L forks on an L frame measure out the same as a G fork on a G frame as far as trail etc from memory....
New bars are easy & cheap. The bikemaster ones work. Daytona or Euro bend are good choices.
L forks on an L frame measure out the same as a G fork on a G frame as far as trail etc from memory....
G
Guest
Guest
All good input. Thank you.
I am planning to install an 850G tank this winter once enjoyable riding weather (i.e. 50+ degrees) becomes sufficiently rare. I like the style much better than that of my L tank, but I'm going to appreciate the extra gallon of fuel capacity even more.
The above 550L looks great with the modified seat, and I would be happy with that as well, but I think I like the idea of making a flat pan that levels off that little dip in the L seat. We will see how lazy or how motivated I feel when the time comes, or how much the L seat is worth to sell. I do like how that 550 seat retains the key access to the battery--something that I would not bother to preserve if I were to build my own.
I think that this the bike to which you refer, it is a 80 850L. It does sport a 750 tank, Corbin Sportster seat and left rear turn signal from a Motoguzi. Had to add a spacer at the rear tank mount and use a longer bolt. cut the front seat mounts off and mounted the seat old school with a bolt through the rear fender. Add K&N pods, jet properly with 4/1 Delvick {sp}. Side panels are fabed out of aircraft aluminum and are formed to just pop on. Keeps up with the big boys just fine.
V
V
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