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single front brake?

  • Thread starter Thread starter NelanCustoms
  • Start date Start date
N

NelanCustoms

Guest
anyone convert thier dual front brake to a single? or know of anyone who has? bad idea? looks good
 
Sure you could, but why?
Dual brakes are weak enough for me.
If I wanted even less braking I guess I could remove one of my fingers.
 
NelanCustoms said:
anyone convert thier dual front brake to a single? or know of anyone who has? bad idea? looks good
Click to expand...

The stock single disk bikes have just barely enough stopping power...and thats if you use plenty of rear brake.

Of course, if you don't mind a little mild fabrication, you could use a dual piston caliper. I'm running two dual piston Kawasaki calipers on my GS1000. Works great. I'm sure one would do the job.
 
tkent02 said:
Sure you could, but why?
Dual brakes are weak enough for me.
If I wanted even less braking I guess I could remove one of my fingers.
Click to expand...

Umm- ok but I can lock up the front wheel pretty easily with 1 finger. Is that weak?
 
Single Brake

Single Brake

Im using one disc up front now. I went to a one disc setup after running a dual stock EC model setup mainly for looks and reducing unsprung weight... IT SUCKS! And is borderline dangerous IMO. I am changing over to a dual 1990s katana setup. It takes a very strong squeeze for a pitiful stoping distance even with ss lines and 70lbs of stock weight. Everytime I use them I am reminded of those stupid "Test your grip" arcade games in pizza parlors. I would stick with duals.
 
Not for the sake of argument, but I just got a book of all the test-reports for '78-81 GS'; both chain & shaft. After reading most all of it, I was suprised to see that the period testers had not much, or no love for the dual-disk set-ups, on not only the Suzi, but the Kawis, too. Several commented that they preferred the wire wheels with single disc for the lower unsprung weight handling, with virtually equal stopping power. Almost all said that wet weather stopping was NOT good. There was mention of pending imporvement in pad materials; according to Suzuki.
 
8trackmind said:
Of course, if you don't mind a little mild fabrication, you could use a dual piston caliper. I'm running two dual piston Kawasaki calipers on my GS1000. Works great. I'm sure one would do the job.
Click to expand...

I'd like to see some close up pics of that... \\:D/
 
hp1000s said:
I was suprised to see that the period testers had not much, or no love for the dual-disk set-ups, on not only the Suzi, but the Kawis, too. Several commented that they preferred the wire wheels with single disc for the lower unsprung weight handling, with virtually equal stopping power.
Click to expand...

This was in the day when the best tires in the world had perhaps half the grip of regular cheapo tires today. Rubber and tire technology has advanced so far in the last 30 years that to go back to the days of weak and ineffective braking is ludicrous. I doubt anyone who rides well enough to be able to feel the difference in unsprung weight would even consider this. There are very lightweight brakes and wheels available off newer bikes that would give incredible stopping power.

Even with these, a GS will never stop like a modern bike, why make it worse than it is?
 
1980GS1000E said:
Whatever was on the bike when I bought it a few months ago. The Earl's lines made a huge difference.
Click to expand...

Really? Do you have super strong fingers, or normal ones? I have a pretty strong grip, (rock climbing, dirt riding) and after adding the second disc and braided steel lines to my 750 I still need two fingers to get the wheel to lock, three with a passenger.

You must have some very good pads, I wonder what they are? The ones I put on my car last year (Jurid OE Improved Compound) are almost too strong, after they are on about a second they get hot and get more grip, perhaps double what they have cold. You have to let off the brake pedal to keep a consistent stop.

I would like some like these on the GS.
 
I went down to one front disc on a 550 as a result of going for wire wheels with alloy rims in search of weight saving. At the same time I upgraded to SS lines and put in some good pads - sorry, I can't remember the brand.

The brakes weren't great beforehand and they weren't great afterwards but I don't really think I noticed much difference if I'm honest. Having only very rarely ridden modern machines I've just learned to expect brakes to behave how you know they are going to behave, accepted it and ridden accordingly.

Would I do it again, now on a 1000? No.
(So there's two conflicting views!)

Wally
 
tkent02 said:
Really? Do you have super strong fingers, or normal ones? I have a pretty strong grip, (rock climbing, dirt riding) and after adding the second disc and braided steel lines to my 750 I still need two fingers to get the wheel to lock, three with a passenger.
Click to expand...

Notice I said I can lock up the tire. That is no Metzeler on there. Just some imitation. I don't think the tire affords enough traction for a stoppie. However, I don't have a gorilla grip, but using the the outside of the lever towards the end definitely helps.
 
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Did you use the 3 line setup or two separate front lines to the calipers?

I have the same setup on my G just with OE lines & I would say they are pretty weak but with a good four finger squeeze it scrubs speed off "ok".

I have loan of a mate's 92 750 Nighthawk at the moment.... single disk front & drum rear. The front is noticeably much stronger. Much more than the weight diff but it's got a twin piston caliper & a bigger disk....

Still like to see pics of that guys twin piston on stock disk setup mentioned earlier in the thread.

Dan :)
 
Id like to see that too...ive been back and forth with myself about whether or not to switch over to this set of 80 forks i have with dual disc...but i cannot decide...for one i WONT part with my spokes..so if the discs dont mount to hell with that...and two i dunno if i want the added weight to an already heavy front end...
 
um.. just to throw everything off canter

my bike DOES do stoppies, on just the one stock front rotor, single caliper, and i have chengshin himax tires.... so um... ya.
I should also mention though, that my brake caliper is a 42mm. according to my local shop, that is bigger than were ever made.. apparently I'm supposed to have only a 36mm caliper
 
TheCafeKid said:
Id like to see that too...ive been back and forth with myself about whether or not to switch over to this set of 80 forks i have with dual disc...but i cannot decide...for one i WONT part with my spokes..so if the discs dont mount to hell with that...and two i dunno if i want the added weight to an already heavy front end...
Click to expand...

It's not that heavy...
DSCN1238.jpg


salty_monk said:
Still like to see pics of that guys twin piston on stock disk setup mentioned earlier in the thread.

Dan :)
Click to expand...

DSCN1879.jpg
 
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Yeah but the 80 design is a bit different...trailing axel and like i said if those rotors wont bolt up to my wires ( i dunno if the holes for them are under that plastic hubcap or not) then its moot. What bike is that shot from?? Thats exactly the set up i need. I need to find forks like those.
 
TheCafeKid said:
Yeah but the 80 design is a bit different...trailing axel and like i said if those rotors wont bolt up to my wires ( i dunno if the holes for them are under that plastic hubcap or not) then its moot. What bike is that shot from?? Thats exactly the set up i need. I need to find forks like those.
Click to expand...

The holes under the cap are threaded on the spoke rims.

The forks are 1978 GS1000E forks. If you swap to "E" forks, you'll also have to change the triple to keep the rake and trail the same.
Keep in mind, 550, 650, 750 forks use 35MM fork tubes, 850, 1000, 1100 forks use 37mm tubes
 
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