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Slipping Clutch - 83 GS850L

93Bandit

Forum Mentor
The clutch on my 850L started slipping several months ago so per many recommendations on GSR, I replaced the clutch springs and changed the oil. It seemed better for a while but then a few weeks ago on a spirited ride, I was going WOT in 2nd or 3rd gear and the RPMs started going up faster than my vehicle speed, then back down. I suspect my clutch plates are worn but I wanted to confirm before I spend the money.

- I'm using Rotella T4 oil
- Clutch cable is adjusted correctly per the manual
- New clutch springs
- Clutch plates looked like they had life left in them but I didn't measure them. I didn't see any discoloration or missing friction material.
- Bike has about 28k miles

What do you guys think? Probably time for the inevitable...
 
28K is not much, usually the clutch and clutch springs last way longer.

Just some questions that spring to mind :

Why did you replace the clutch springs .... were they too short ?
Specs are in the manual.

What did you replace them with ? Also OEM ?

I would take a good look at the plates, and measure them.
Sometimes it's 1 steely warped, sometimes it's easy to measure all fibers too thin.
Difficult to answer with the info you provided.

Clutch cable is adjusted correctly per the manual

Sounds like you do not have very much experience with this, so just to be sure,
does the cable have free play (grab the outer cable at the clutch handle and rock it in and out.
Should be 1-3 mm free play)
 
Replace the clutch plates and use motorcycle oil only. Worked for me, 2 bikes.
I blame using non motorcycle oil.
 
Assuming everything is adjusted correctly, the usual advice for a slipping clutch is new stock springs, and most of the time that's all that's needed. Over 30 or 40 years, the stock springs get tired, and slipping is common.

Since you've done that already, there are a few more things to consider. It may be that your friction plates have become glazed from slippage and age.

I've used Rotella T4 15W-40 in my GS850G with stock springs for aeons, and it's been flogged mercilessly. I've also used the T6 Synthetic 5W-40 many times. Many others here use these oils and they do not cause clutch slippage, although it's true that some car oils certainly do.

It's been several years since I replaced a set of horribly stiff heavy duty aftermarket springs with new OEM springs, new lever, and new OEM cable. It's like buttuh, and no slipping. Hard to tell, but the set of clutch plates in there has at least 50,000 miles on them. And no, they normally don't wear out, ever.

Once tactic could be to replace the friction plates and scuff up the steel plates. Another could be to install three of the aftermarket springs, so you get only a little heavier clutch lever action, but enough clamping force to guarantee it won't slip.

The heavier springs are pretty cheap, anyway:
https://www.amazon.com/Clutch-Factory-Springs-Suzuki-1000/dp/B00230DUWK

By the way, install the clutch gasket with a thin layer of grease and you can re-use it many times while you're sorting this out. And make sure you get an OEM or at least a good quality OEM thickness gasket. Some of the aftermarket gaskets are way too thin and can make your shifter shaft bind.


If you do decide to replace the clutch fiber plates, I've always had good luck with EBC on other machines, although OEM is always best, and sometimes OEM is very similar or even less in price, so poke around.
 
28K is not much, usually the clutch and clutch springs last way longer.

Just some questions that spring to mind :

Why did you replace the clutch springs .... were they too short ?
Specs are in the manual. I replaced them because the clutch was slipping. I measured a few and they were short, I don't recall how much though.

What did you replace them with ? Also OEM ? OEM springs from Parts Outlaw

I would take a good look at the plates, and measure them.
Sometimes it's 1 steely warped, sometimes it's easy to measure all fibers too thin.
Difficult to answer with the info you provided. ​I'll have to do this.



Sounds like you do not have very much experience with this, so just to be sure,
does the cable have free play (grab the outer cable at the clutch handle and rock it in and out.
Should be 1-3 mm free play. I have adjusted cables before, and yes it has the specified 1-3mm of free play per the manual.

Answers in red.

Replace the clutch plates and use motorcycle oil only. Worked for me, 2 bikes.
I blame using non motorcycle oil.

That was a thought that crossed my mind, and normally I use the correct fluid for the application but so many members here use Rotella T4 without issues so I figured I'd try it. I've ridden the bike about 5k miles all while using T4 and never had a clutch issue until this year. I would think if oil was the issue, it would have started slipping within the first 1k miles. Or am I thinking wrong?
 
No, T4 15W-40 is perfectly fine, and so is T6 5W-40 synthetic. Lots and lots and lots of us use these oils.

It ain't the oil.

I suspect your clutch plates are glazed. Replacing them will cost a bit but should end the problem.

You can also patch around the real problem cheaper by installing three heavier springs, but of course a heavier clutch pull is annoying.
 
Last edited:
You can also just use 2 heavy duty springs and 4 stock. Just put the heavy duties across from each other. Dar
 
Once tactic could be to replace the friction plates and scuff up the steel plates. Another could be to install three of the aftermarket springs, so you get only a little heavier clutch lever action, but enough clamping force to guarantee it won't slip.

The heavier springs are pretty cheap, anyway:
https://www.amazon.com/Clutch-Factory-Springs-Suzuki-1000/dp/B00230DUWK

By the way, install the clutch gasket with a thin layer of grease and you can re-use it many times while you're sorting this out. And make sure you get an OEM or at least a good quality OEM thickness gasket. Some of the aftermarket gaskets are way too thin and can make your shifter shaft bind.


If you do decide to replace the clutch fiber plates, I've always had good luck with EBC on other machines, although OEM is always best, and sometimes OEM is very similar or even less in price, so poke around.

I don't like band-aid fixes nor do I desire a stiff clutch lever, but I may give the HD springs a try, using 3 as you suggest. It may get me by until I get the motivation to go through the whole motor. When that day comes, I'll definitely be replacing wear items.

As for the gasket, I out a new OEM gasket on and lightly coated it with WD-40 with hopes I can reuse it if I have to open the clutch again.
 
I replaced 3 of the springs in My 850 with stiffer aftermarket stuff years ago. Clutch pull is fine as well. I do not consider years of OK a band-aid fix. I still have the other 3.
 
Rekon what would be the difference in pressure from a a set of 37 yr. old stock springs & a new set of the same stock springs?
 
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