Solid State Power Box STANDARD INSTALLATION

[posplayr]

ok, so i have been working on the sspb install on my 83 gs 1100 es. Few minor differences here, or, one to be specific. The connector to make the headlight bucket connections is not, in fact, in the 'headlight bucket", since there isn't one on the es, but is rather tucked under the tank. Not entirely sure why the little engineers decided to do this, as there is plenty o' room in the fairing, but there it is. Fine, fine, BUT the wires are a bit squirreled away in there, a bit less accessible. Other than these connections, i think i am pretty much all hooked up, if not finalized. Ended up moving my electrical mounting plate inboard of the tabs, no problem since i am running pods and there are no space issues. I need to grok the connections at the "headlight bucket" area, then figure out how to weasel the harness out of the frame tunnel to get access. Will try to post some pics soon.

greg

I did a coil relay mod (quick fix took 4 hours) on a friends ESD. I was kinda shocked at how much different those harness were to the EZ/ED harnesses.
Glad things are coming along.

 

[ptexotik]

I did a coil relay mod (quick fix took 4 hours) on a friends ESD. I was kinda shocked at how much different those harness were to the EZ/ED harnesses.
Glad things are coming along.

time flies when you're having fun !! (and drinking!! )

 

[posplayr]

time flies when you're having fun !! (and drinking!! )

Yea especially when pulling on a string (PO mods galore).

 

[Guest]

hey, if i am reading this right, can i eliminate that whole connector? interesting.

 

[posplayr]

hey, if i am reading this right, can i eliminate that whole connector? interesting.

Maybe this

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=218780

 

[Guest]

SUCCESS!! got everything buttoned up and fired up last night, fire on all 4, green light on the sspb, awww, yiss. Thanks again jim for your work on this and your patience with my questions!!!

greg

 

[posplayr]

SUCCESS!! got everything buttoned up and fired up last night, fire on all 4, green light on the sspb, awww, yiss. Thanks again jim for your work on this and your patience with my questions!!!

greg

Good job. So headlamps cut out, starter spins faster lights brighter. I also noted higher charging voltages at the battery.

Any words of wisdom about what would have made the install easier?

 

[Guest]

more intelligence on my part? it really went pretty easily, made one misconnection that i had to fix, not sure where my brain was on that one. As i said previously, my "headlamp bucket connector" was under the tank, which was a bit of a pain, but that is a suzuki issue. I did the whole "eliminate the entire connector" mod, it might be nice for folks if that info was consolidated into the sspb instructions. Overall, all the difficulties were on my end....really nice product, jim!

greg

 

[posplayr]

more intelligence on my part? it really went pretty easily, made one misconnection that i had to fix, not sure where my brain was on that one. As i said previously, my "headlamp bucket connector" was under the tank, which was a bit of a pain, but that is a suzuki issue. I did the whole "eliminate the entire connector" mod, it might be nice for folks if that info was consolidated into the sspb instructions. Overall, all the difficulties were on my end....really nice product, jim!

greg

Yes , I think the Kill switch mods are probably the most difficult and while there are many similarities there are enough differences to lead to confusion.

I'll update those instructions.

If you has some pictures of the your connector, you could post that would be helpful.

 

[cp___32]

OK here is a side by side of the 82/83 GS1100ED Kill switch mods with the equivalent on the 82 550M colored schematic.

For clarity (or not) I added the changes to the headlamp circuit as well, because while you are there this will further help the voltage to the headlamp. This is strictly to remove some unnecessary harness connections that Suzuki left it the harness that just creates a place to loose voltage to your headlamp and lights; it has nothing to do with the SSPB except after the SSPB is in, these unnecessary connection can represent one of the biggest voltage drops for the headlamp.

The 550 doesn't have a O/G on the same kill switch connector so I went over to the brake light switch to pick it up.


To summarize there are basically three modifications for the Kill switch

STEP 1.) Separate the Kill switch from it's existing two O/W connections to the harness and connect the two harness side wires together. The best place to do this is the two O/W wires ( on the harness side ) of the connector in the headlamp bucket. Cut the wires off close to the connector then strip them back and twist and solder them together with shrink tubing. They will be carrying the ignition circuit currents.

STEP #2 Power the Kill Switch input from the O/G (O/G is SIGNAL switched power).

STEP #3 Connect the output of the Kill Switch to the G/W to signal the SSPB on Pin 3

I'm doing an install on my 1980 GS 550 L and I had a few questions. One involves this mod. Hopefully someone can offer some insight. I cut the two O/W wires feeding into the green plug inside the headlight. I soldered them together so the loop back to wherever they came from. Next, I followed what Pos suggested and put a jumper wire from the orange hot lead running to the brake light switch to the solid orange wire which is on the back side of that green plug that had its O/W supply wires cut in Step 1. It's Step 3 that I'm confused with. I looked at the color coded diagram as well as the diagram above.

It says to connect the output from the kill switch (O/W) to the G/W wire. The diagram above shows the G/W (and R/W) dead ending at that plug. Aren't those supposed to connect to the stator on one end? The G/W wire goes from the stator connector up to a white plug on the left side of the bike and that runs up to the headlight switch area (not a dead end). Do I splice into that wire? Do I cut it and not care where it heads and simply solder the O/W kill switch output onto it instead?

I also don't know what that line with the headlight mods part means. The three orange dots with the red line across them; what am I supposed to do there?

Let's start with solving that problem and I'll do some more reading on the Molex connections in the meantime.

 

[posplayr]

I'm doing an install on my 1980 GS 550 L and I had a few questions. One involves this mod. Hopefully someone can offer some insight. I cut the two O/W wires feeding into the green plug inside the headlight. I soldered them together so the loop back to wherever they came from.

OK That is mod #1 of the process. It makes sure that the O/W which is coming from the fuse box powers the whole IGNITION circuit.

From the factory the O/W from the fusebox only direct to the Kill Switch and no where else. After going through the Kill Switch the O/W is used to power both coils and the ignitor.Anytime you do a coil relay mod or install the SSPB the switching of the O/W is no longer done by the Kill Switch. The Kill switch is now the trigger input signal for the relay or SSPB.

By making this jumper the entire O/W is powered if the SSPB IGNITION circuit can get triggered .

Next, I followed what Pos suggested and put a jumper wire from the orange hot lead running to the brake light switch to the solid orange wire which is on the back side of that green plug that had its O/W supply wires cut in Step 1.

Step #2 is to power the Kill switch which was severed from the harness with change #1. You want to power the Kill switch with O/G. O/G is the Signal circuit. The wire might be O on the switch side but make sure the harness side is O/G. This way the kill switch can be activated only with the IGN SW on which is required to activate O/G.

It's Step 3 that I'm confused with. I looked at the color coded diagram as well as the diagram above.

It says to connect the output from the kill switch (O/W) to the G/W wire. The diagram above shows the G/W (and R/W) dead ending at that plug. Aren't those supposed to connect to the stator on one end? The G/W wire goes from the stator connector up to a white plug on the left side of the bike and that runs up to the headlight switch area (not a dead end). Do I splice into that wire? Do I cut it and not care where it heads and simply solder the O/W kill switch output onto it instead?

If you updated your R/R to remove the stator loop to the headlamp switch then you will have freed up two wires in your harness, Lg/W and a W/R. They are no longer are connected to the stator loop. You should have the cut and free at the R/R side and you can just cut them off the headlamp connector here as well.This is convenient to use to route the output of the Kill Switch back to the SSPB or to a Relay with a more common Coil Relay Mod.

In the directions for the install of the SSPB I suggested using the Lg/W as the trigger signal and you will see that it is used on the SSPB side to connect to a WHITE pigtail which is connected to Input pin #3. I have the OEM wire labeled as G/W in the SSPB schematic so assume that G/W (green /white)and Lg/W (light green/white)are the same.

I also don't know what that line with the headlight mods part means. The three orange dots with the red line across them; what am I supposed to do there?

A orange DOT means a connection. If there is a line between then that means a jumper wire. If the dots are immediately adjacent to each other assume there is a jumper there as well.

Let's start with solving that problem and I'll do some more reading on the Molex connections in the meantime.

What may be a little confusing is the various cuts for just the kill switch and then the other cuts to remove additional connectors that are in fact unnecessary. If you are having a hard time following the cuts and jumpers make sure you understand the ones in this thread and then compared to the ones in the headlamp mod thread.

If it is not obvious from the mods, in both cases shown, the entire headlamp connector is removed to improve the amount of voltage to the headlamp.

 

[cp___32]

Ahhhh ok. That makes a whole lot more sense now. I took your advice on the Polaris R/R and have one that's currently somewhere between California and my house. Once that arrives I'll install it and then revisit the concepts of the headlight mod and hopefully it becomes much more clear. Funny thing is I told a coworker about the Polaris R/R and he looked confused. He said that when he works on bikes he generally puts an R/R from an R1 on them. I had been looking for a Polaris one that was speced out in many posts here and accidentally came across one from an R1. Turns out they're from the same mfr and look identical. Not sure if the fine details of the electronics are different between models but it's funny how common that part is because of its reliability. I also ordered the triumph harness for it so my install will be nice and clean.

Busy weekend, and the R/R isn't here yet so I'll report back once I get back to it.

Thanks Pos!

 

[posplayr]

I think there needs to be a speed reading limit in the electrical section. Most of my last replies were largely repeats of the same description. It is always helpful to get some specific help if you are having somewhat of a mental block.

unfortunately this left hand switch mod has gotten more complicated by the variety of harnesses and now with the desire go improve the headlamp circuit at the same time. You can make it even worse by not using the oem factory shematic.

Despite the complications, most will agree it is not that complicated once you are done. But then most things are that way

 

[cp___32]

Despite the complications, most will agree it is not that complicated once you are done. But then most things are that way

This is exactly it. Now that it's done, the mod is quite easy.
With electrical especially, sometimes the slightest change in how an instruction is explained can make all the difference in understanding. My biggest issue was going between your 1100 wiring diagram, the '82 550M wiring and the wiring for the '80 GS550. Once I thoroughly studied the intent of the mod and each of the wiring diagrams it all became clear.

I also managed to get the SSPB wired in. My current battery is pooched so I put the acid into my new battery and threw it on the charger tonight. I hope to turn the key tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[posplayr]

This is exactly it. Now that it's done, the mod is quite easy.
With electrical especially, sometimes the slightest change in how an instruction is explained can make all the difference in understanding. My biggest issue was going between your 1100 wiring diagram, the '82 550M wiring and the wiring for the '80 GS550. Once I thoroughly studied the intent of the mod and each of the wiring diagrams it all became clear.

I also managed to get the SSPB wired in. My current battery is pooched so I put the acid into my new battery and threw it on the charger tonight. I hope to turn the key tomorrow and see what happens.

Good job; If you have any recommendations on how to explain it clearer, I'm all ears

 

[cp___32]

Just a quick reply cause I am at work at the moment but when I connected the fresh battery and hit the key I got a green light plus a flashing fault light and corresponding beep.

For the install I just capped the wires off the molex that correspond to additional accessories or future growth as I have no need for extra loops at the moment.. So power wise everything is connected the same as the stock fuse panel was.
I ran a fresh wire for the kill switch because on my bike the g/w and r/w wires aren't routed through the headlight and aren't as easily accessible so I left them alone.

I installed my Polaris r/r as per the sspb instructions using a triumph harness.

The only thing I am really wondering about is the frame ground. I used the mount for the battery box and I am thinking that since it has a rubber grommet it might be mucking things up. The grommet has a sleeve and the bolt connects to the frame but maybe another choice would be better. Also does it matter if the ground bolt is stainless?
Thanks all

P.S. I will be relocating the ground to a non painted direct connection to the frame and subbing the stainless bolt for a proper steel one just to be sure. But if anything else jumps out please let me know.
I will report back shortly.

 

[posplayr]

Just a quick reply cause I am at work at the moment but when I connected the fresh battery and hit the key I got a green light plus a flashing fault light and corresponding beep.

For the install I just capped the wires off the molex that correspond to additional accessories or future growth as I have no need for extra loops at the moment.. So power wise everything is connected the same as the stock fuse panel was.
I ran a fresh wire for the kill switch because on my bike the g/w and r/w wires aren't routed through the headlight and aren't as easily accessible so I left them alone.

I installed my Polaris r/r as per the sspb instructions using a triumph harness.

The only thing I am really wondering about is the frame ground. I used the mount for the battery box and I am thinking that since it has a rubber grommet it might be mucking things up. The grommet has a sleeve and the bolt connects to the frame but maybe another choice would be better. Also does it matter if the ground bolt is stainless?
Thanks all

P.S. I will be relocating the ground to a non painted direct connection to the frame and subbing the stainless bolt for a proper steel one just to be sure. But if anything else jumps out please let me know.
I will report back shortly.

You have a short. That is what the red light and buzzer are warning about. Recheck the outputs; there is nothing on the inputs of the SSPB that would cause a short. Of course if there is a short on an output and the circuit is off, the red light buzzer will com on when you switch it on.

 

[60ratrod]

Thanks to posplayr and his engineering, i now have a great electical system minus the horn, which is probably self-induced. Other than an inop horn, i have lights kill switch, indicators, and spark. So a little trouble shooting on the horn and i'll be on the road shortly. I gotta go help my buddy put his savage back together in the morning or i'd chase my tail with the horn circuit. I think my horn circuit is causing my fault warning since i've checked all of the other systems and they all work. Thanks posplayr for the box and the help!

 

[Ecklund]

Thanks to posplayr and his engineering, i now have a great electical system minus the horn, which is probably self-induced. Other than an inop horn, i have lights kill switch, indicators, and spark. So a little trouble shooting on the horn and i'll be on the road shortly. I gotta go help my buddy put his savage back together in the morning or i'd chase my tail with the horn circuit. I think my horn circuit is causing my fault warning since i've checked all of the other systems and they all work. Thanks posplayr for the box and the help!

I have also benefitted from his research and input. Bright and generous guy. The forum is a better place because of him.

 

[60ratrod]

Totally. He has been a huge help offline. He has become one of those that i hold in high regards with a lot of respect.