Some pics of Blowerbike's nuts

[TheCafeKid]

HA...you're all a bunch of sick perverts...Get your minds out of the gutter!! :-&

Seriously though folks, someone on here recently posted they'd bought a GS1150 clutch hub nut from Suzuki, and it was no different than the 1100E hub nut. Below are pics of hub nuts from a stock 1100E, a stock 1150E, and an APE chrome-molly hub nut... Can you tell which is which?

So, lets see how smart ya are

left to right, you have

Stock 1100E, Stock 1150E, APE

The stock 1150 hub nut is the SAME SIZE at the APE in every facet. Its just not chrome-moly steel. If you were to order this piece from Suzuki, this is what you should get, right? Or has the part number been superceeded???

 

[Nessism]

Right to left, you have

Stock 1100E, Stock 1150E, APE

The stock 1150 hub nut is the SAME SIZE at the APE in every facet. Its just not chrome-moly steel. If you were to order this piece from Suzuki, this is what you should get, right? Or has the part number been superceeded???

I recently bought three of those 1150 nuts and they look just like your photo.

Regarding the "chrome-moly" nut, what exactly does that mean? Run of the mill 4130 is only 125 ksi tensile strength, about the same as a grade 5 SAE or 8.8 Metric. Nothing special. I assume that Ape nut is more like grade 8 or 10.9?

At any rate, I used loctite on my 1150 nut and torqued it to the max spec listed in the manual. Fingers crossed it doesn't come loose.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I recently bought three of those 1150 nuts and they look just like your photo.

Regarding the "chrome-moly" nut, what exactly does that mean? Run of the mill 4130 is only 125 ksi tensile strength, about the same as a grade 5 SAE or 8.8 Metric. Nothing special. I assume that Ape nut is more like grade 8 or 10.9?

At any rate, I used loctite on my 1150 nut and torqued it to the max spec listed in the manual. Fingers crossed it doesn't come loose.

As far as the chrome-moly, the drag guys, or better still, engineers or metalurgists would know better, but Id assume its much harder, and more resistant to thread wear and "squish". I put an APE jobby in my 1100ES, narry a knock. Just torque to spec, use the loctite, and life's good Id suspect

 

[jwhelan65]

Just looks like three little nuts to me.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Just looks like three little nuts to me.

they aint quite little...32mm...

 

[Nessism]

As far as the chrome-moly, the drag guys, or better still, engineers or metalurgists would know better, but Id assume its much harder, and more resistant to thread wear and "squish". I put an APE jobby in my 1100ES, narry a knock. Just torque to spec, use the loctite, and life's good Id suspect

I am an engineer, thus my comment. I'd like to know what the actual material is, not some generic term like chrome-moly. After all, that's a seriously expensive nut.

 

[kinnet]

I am an engineer, thus my comment. I'd like to know what the actual material is, not some generic term like chrome-moly. After all, that's a seriously expensive nut.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrome_moly

 

[TheCafeKid]

I am an engineer, thus my comment. I'd like to know what the actual material is, not some generic term like chrome-moly. After all, that's a seriously expensive nut.

Terry (Blowerbike) and I were discussing this very fact the other day when I took these pics for him. He seemed fairly certain that a person could get the stock 1150 nut, and never have a problem. Chrome-moly or not, it seats better, threads better, and is beefier clearly. You can actually put some ass behind it without it spitting out threads. so.. $7 for a stock 1150, or $20?? or whatever it is for APE? I have one already, but I'd take a shot with a stocker, and see what happens.

 

[TheCafeKid]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrome_moly

Uh.... it says "harder" huh huh uh huhh uhhh

That's pretty explainitory. I dont understand it, but Ed might. Good job sweets

 

[kinnet]

Uh.... it says "harder" huh huh uh huhh uhhh

That's pretty explainitory. I dont understand it, but Ed might. Good job sweets

It also says "Elongation"...

I don't understand it either... Hence, just the link and no comment, because I'd look like an idiot. Ha.

 

[Guest]

I am an engineer, thus my comment. I'd like to know what the actual material is, not some generic term like chrome-moly. After all, that's a seriously expensive nut.

I think they are hardened as well, unlike the stock item (take a file and try to scratch the side, is someone has one handy), and can withstand repeated dis-assembly without as much thread deformity...the stock ones seem good for 5 or 6 cycles, I'm told. The $30 price includes a hefty mark-up without question....there is a CNC machining company next door to my work & I thought of getting a quote on 1000 of these, when things are slow over there....I'd be surprised if they are more than $4.00 to $5.00 a piece.

 

[blowerbike]

ummm,
what about my nuts.
next time...a little for-play please

 

[Guest]

ummm,
what about my nuts.
next time...a little for-play please

Scratching them with a file would be foreplay, no?

 

[blowerbike]

Scratching them with a file would be foreplay, no?

 

[Nessism]

I agree about the heat treatment part. That can take a fairly soft part and add about 50% to it's strength. I suspect that Ape nut is heat treated, or it should be for the price.

 

[madjack57754]

If you have ever pull the threads out of a stock hub nut, you know the value of the ape hub nut. Cases and clutch hubs are a bunch more $$$ than the nut. Only did that once. the nut is cheap insurance.

 

[Baatfam]

As far as the chrome-moly, the drag guys, or better still, engineers or metalurgists would know better...

Nah...don't ask this drag guy....
All I ever ran was the stock nut with a beat up lock washer and no locktight...
Never had an issue.

 

[blowerbike]

when the threads pull out of a clutch hub nut nothing really gets hurt.
nothing blows a part like a clutch basket w/ a stock backing plate.
what happens is that the clutch becomes direct drive which means that when you pull the clutch in the bike keeps goings because the clutch pack does not release.
worse case senerio is that the basket pump gear disengages and you lose oil pressure.(this rarely can happen because of lack of room for movement)

the reason i had TCK post these pictures is that i had mentioned about using 1150 hub nuts before and someone later on came back and said the 1150 nut was not any different than the 1100 hub nut.
well...
the proofs in the pictures.
use what you want..
if you want the best buy Jays HD nut.
if you want better than stock 1100...pick up an 1150 nut.
if you don't care or you ride like your driven miss daisy.. then don't worry about the size of your nuts.

 

[Nicholaschase29]

That guy was ME!

The yellowish nut is the one that i had - and the blackish nut is the 1150 nut i ordered on bikebandit.

 

[Nicholaschase29]

I count ~4 threads on my nuts and from TCK's pictures the ape and 1150 nut have more than 4.