Spent some time in the "man-cave" - From Wreck to Restoration

[Larry D]

The exhaust on my 750L doesn't quite fit right...close enough to be secure but, I lost the use of my sidestand. It doesn't bother me and I've become used to the centerstand. I got such a generous deal on the exhaust, I couldn't pass it up. And it looks pretty good too. IMHO.

I'll keep my eyes open for a nice original exhaust for you Cliff.

 

[BassCliff]

Progress Report

Progress Report

Hi,

Thank you for thinking of me Larry.

With Ed's encouragement, I took another look at bolting on the "L" exhaust. It turns out that the side stand was not in the way. It was the screwdriver that I use to lock the center stand.

Here's a shot after bolting on the exhaust, rear fender, and tail light assembly.

Now let me tell you what I came up with for shock bushings for my new (cheap) set of MDI shocks. I found these rubber shock bushings at a local AutoZone.

I didn't use the larger one but the two smaller ones worked out pretty good. You can also buy just the two smaller ones in a package at NAPA Auto Parts, but my local store had only one (2 pieces) and I needed two. Here is what they look like on the shock mount stud...

I thought pressing them into the shock eye first would be easier. Because I didn't want to subject the new rubber to petroleum products right away, I used some non-stick cooking spray (canola oil) and it worked like a charm. They could probably use some trimming, but they were a nice size...

And once I squirted them with canola oil, they pressed into the eye pretty easily by hand...

Here's what the old bushings looked like....

Then I got out my high-tech tire lift (three 2x4's nailed together with a board of plywood) to mount the shocks...

If I need to remove the axle I can just keep sliding the boards under the tire and raise it above the exhaust...

Unfortunately, the bushings would not slide onto the shock studs once they were pressed into the eyes. So I got out my 3/8" drill and widened the holes a little bit. I'm thinking that next time I'll find/fabricate some steel sleeves with 12mm ID/14mm OD to press into these bushings, like the original ones. I have yet to find any off the shelf parts that work very well.

That's 10 pictures...to be continued.

 

[rapidray]

Lookin' good Cliff! Progress is a great thing, isn't it?! Ray.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Once I got the holes just wide enough and pressed the shocks on the lower mounts, I lowered my high-tech tire lift to line up the upper shock mounts, sprayed more canola oil, and shoved them on...

I had to check the parts fiche to make sure I had all the washers in the right place, then I buttoned them down...

Once that was done I just had to take her off the center stand, straddle her, and roll her back and forth a little. I might have to trim some of the extra rubber from the bushings, but I think they'll do for a while.

After that I put the battery back in (it needs to finish trickle charging) to check the electrics. Everything worked; headlight, tail/brake light, blinkers, instrument lights. I was jazzed! :clap:

All that's left is to get the body parts back from the paint shop, rebuild the front calipers, reinstall them, put fluid in the front brakes,etc. I'm getting very close to riding again. (We'll see how well the carbs do since it's been sitting for so long. But it did have a healthy dose of Sea Foam in the gas.)

Thanks again to everyone who has donated parts, labor, experience, insight, prayers, etc. I'll be sure to take pictures and video of my first ride on the "renewed" Jessie.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[BassCliff]

Lookin' good Cliff! Progress is a great thing, isn't it?! Ray.

Thanks Ray,

I just hope I don't have to take the exhaust off again. I'm reusing all of the exhaust gaskets. I hope I don't have any leaks. But at least next time it will go more quickly and easily.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Guest]

Cliff- I'm curious about your choice of canola oil spray, was it just handy? I've thought of using Pam or such to lube the chains in a roto-tiller transmission I'm (unfortunately) rebuilding (real tar-baby ugliness- taken WAY too much time), because I had to wash down the whole thing to get rid broken gear teeth and other metal debris, and you have to use food-grade products to lube the thing. ANYWAY-I've always used silicone spray for rubber-to-metal, or plastic-to-rubber, etc., contacts, like manifolds or carb intake tubes, etc. Thanks for your great pix, by the way.

 

[BassCliff]

New Paint Pictures!

New Paint Pictures!

Hi,

Yes, Mr. recycled64, using the cooking spray to lube the bushings in was just a goofy idea I had. It worked. Silicone spray would probably be better but I didn't have any.

Anyway, I got a call from the paint shop this morning and I picked up my body parts. I think they look great...

I didn't get a picture of the front fender but it looks great too. I was told to wait a few days before bolting this stuff on because the clear coat needs to set and get a little harder.

Just for grins and giggles, here's a shot of my wrecked tank...

And this is what I've been using to put Jessie back together...

I have a meager selection of tools sitting on an impromptu workbench. It gets the job done. At least I have a real toolbox now. You can see it in the background here...

I used to keep all my tools in that briefcase under my toolbox. But then Ray would tease me. Now the briefcase holds electrical stuff, crimpers, connectors, wire, tape, various Loctite potions, etc.

OK, time to rebuild a couple of calipers. Thanks for looking. I'm one step closer to riding again.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[DanTheMan]

Lookin' good, Cliff. As usual on mine, I'll just have time for the necessary stuff, fork seals, valve shims and carbs, possibly a larger tank (see how that works out), and I'll be back on the road in April when this sub zero weather and slick icy snowy stuff goes away.

 

[67fire]

She's going to look FANTASTIC!!!!

I am sooo jealous!

Eric

 

[julien]

Mr BassCliff,

I have been away for a few months from the GS Resource website... I am sorry to hear that you had an accident. I really love looking at pics of your bike... so clean...
I am happy to see that you are doing better and getting her back together. I like the new colors and, I must say, am a little jealous (smile)
I wish you luck...
Be safe.

 

[BassCliff]

Thanks guys!

I ran into a little hitch yesterday when I started rebuilding the front calipers. I took apart the right caliper and couldn't get the piston out. It's stuck really good. So it looks like I'm going to have to take the brake hose off the rear caliper, hook up the front caliper, and use it to force out the piston. I have a feeling I'll have to do this with both front calipers. Oh well, I'm sure I should replace the brake fluid in the rear brake system anyway.

But as soon as I get the brakes sorted out I'll be able to bolt everything back together, add the finishing touches, and get back on two wheels again. With my busy schedule I'm looking at a couple more weeks perhaps. Wish me luck.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[67fire]

Just do not get any of those pretty pieces anywhere near your caliper work!

Eric

 

[Guest]

Seperate the calipers (pistons) and use air. I used a stupid cigarette lighter pump and that got them out. They do blow so be careful. Aim away from the body.

 

[BassCliff]

Seperate the calipers (pistons) and use air. I used a stupid cigarette lighter pump and that got them out. They do blow so be careful. Aim away from the body.

Hey Bill,

Yes, I thought of this but all I have is a bicycle pump.

I might be able to take them to my buddy who works in the garage at work and borrow the air compressor there. That would be a lot easier than using the rear brake system. Disconnecting, reconnecting, bleeding, pumping, pop out the piston, repeat...

Should I use some kind of silicone spray lube on the caliper axles? The axle that has the rubber sleeve on it doesn't move in and out very well at all. I actually used a little dab of my Moly 60 paste when reassembling them but I'm not sure if that's the best stuff to use.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[jwhelan65]

Something about fresh bodywork!! looks fantastic Cliff.

 

[jwhelan65]

Thanks guys!

I ran into a little hitch yesterday when I started rebuilding the front calipers. I took apart the right caliper and couldn't get the piston out. It's stuck really good. So it looks like I'm going to have to take the brake hose off the rear caliper, hook up the front caliper, and use it to force out the piston. I have a feeling I'll have to do this with both front calipers. Oh well, I'm sure I should replace the brake fluid in the rear brake system anyway.

But as soon as I get the brakes sorted out I'll be able to bolt everything back together, add the finishing touches, and get back on two wheels again. With my busy schedule I'm looking at a couple more weeks perhaps. Wish me luck.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

I had this same problem on a set calipers on my 700. I put the caliper in a vise, draped a shop rag over the piston so that I didn't booger em up and than used a screw driver to slowly pry them out. I ended up replacing the pistons in the end anyway, they were very rusted and pitted. Knowing that I could of latched on with visegrip (favorite tool #1) and mucsled them free, oh well..

 

[Guest]

Silicone lubricant will be good on those rubber boots.

 

[rapidray]

Actually Cliff, I have always used some brake fluid as the lubricant for assembly. That's what I was taught by an ASE Master a LONG time ago. Ray.

 

[Guest]

Silicone lubricant will be good on those rubber boots.

I was talking about the rubber boots on the slide pins.
I agree use brake fluid.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

So on #9 and #10, is it silicone or brake fluid as the lubricant?

I know Suzuki has their own caliper axle grease for these parts, Part# 99000-25100. Thanks for sharing your experience guys.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff