sprocket chain purchase

[luc8421]

So for my next purchase, I want to buy a new front/rear sproket and chain for my 700. My sprokets don't look too bad, but when I took my front sproket cover off, about 20 o-rings fell out, I dunno if it's from a previous chain, but I figure I might as well change it just to be safe. I've scoped out some parts at motorcyclesuperstore.com, here's the link:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/parts.aspx?returnurl=partsgarage.aspx

as you can see, I've got a choice between AFAM, JT, and Sunstar. Has anyone had any experience with them? AFAM only has one option for rear sprocket, JT's real cheap, but Sunstar's not much more expensive, but is it going to make a difference in quality or some other factor?

And what about changing the number of teeth. I like strong acceleration, but I'm not a dragster, and it would be nice to lower rpms at higher speeds. So if I were to go to a gearing for lower rpms, would it affect my acceleration much? and how many teeth should I change?

For the chain, I was thinking the Western Power Sports 530 HSO O-Ring Chain, does anyone know if this is a decent company, or can I go cheaper to save some bucks.

Sorry for my ignorance, I can relate car mechanics of carbs/wiring and such to motorcycles, but chains are something I've never delt with, so thanks everyone in advance.

 

[Detman101]

Thank you so much for that link. I've been looking for someplace that I could buy a chain and sprockets from. Thank you thank you thank you!!!


Dm of mD

 

[Jethro]

I've had JT and Sunstar sprockets before. I can't see much of a difference between them, although the Sunstar looked a little nicer.

Your 700 probably has more than enough power to handle a smaller rear sprocket for lower highway RPM's. I wouldn't worry about it, but keep in mind that if you keep the stock gearing, you should be able to cut a few links off if you decide to change, but if you size the chain right away with a smaller rear spocket, you'll have to get a new chain as well if you don't like it.

 

[lhanscom]

Re: sprocket chain purchase

And what about changing the number of teeth. I like strong acceleration, but I'm not a dragster, and it would be nice to lower rpms at higher speeds. So if I were to go to a gearing for lower rpms, would it affect my acceleration much? and how many teeth should I change?

I played with gearing quite a bit on my 700, both higher, and lower gearing. I found the stock gearing to be best. The higher gearing does effect acceleration, the 700 doesn't have much torque down low, so you end up slipping the clutch more to get going. The lower gearing has you trying to find 6th gear all the time, but is a lot of fun on back roads.

 

[moto_dan]

I've used both Sunstar and JT sprockets but after observing the lack of wear with the JT sprockets on my 1100(with 530 conversion) I'm trying JT's on my '83. Last set I used Sunstar and almost immediately the rear showed abnormal/unusual wear. I think I'm using an RK "x" ring chain. I'm not familiar with the brand of chain you mentioned.

 

[Anonymous]

If you want to experiment with sprockets, the cheapest way to do it is to get a smaller front by one tooth. Then if you don't like it, change to the stock gearing. The fronts are much cheaper than the rears, have a bigger impact with one tooth change, and don't have much effect on the chain length either.

 

[lhanscom]

If you want to experiment with sprockets, the cheapest way to do it is to get a smaller front by one tooth. Then if you don't like it, change to the stock gearing. The fronts are much cheaper than the rears, have a bigger impact with one tooth change, and don't have much effect on the chain length either.

To get lower rpms you want to go UP a tooth in the front. 1 tooth in the front is pretty close to 3 teeth in the back, and front sprockets are cheaper, and easier to change. With a new chain you can use 14, 15, and 16, and stay with in your chain adjustment, as long as you cut the chain to fit the 16 tooth.

 

[Anonymous]

If you want to experiment with sprockets, the cheapest way to do it is to get a smaller front by one tooth. Then if you don't like it, change to the stock gearing. The fronts are much cheaper than the rears, have a bigger impact with one tooth change, and don't have much effect on the chain length either.

To get lower rpms you want to go UP a tooth in the front. 1 tooth in the front is pretty close to 3 teeth in the back, and front sprockets are cheaper, and easier to change. With a new chain you can use 14, 15, and 16, and stay with in your chain adjustment, as long as you cut the chain to fit the 16 tooth.

Yea, that's it. :wink:

 

[luc8421]

Alright, so with these responses, this is what I've come up with:

Not much difference between sunstar at JT, although moto dan saw some quick wear on the sunstar, although the JT doesn't look as good.
With that review, I think I'd get the JT 45tooth rear sproket, and maybe a 14T stock, and a 15T to experiement with rpms vs. acceleration. However what I would like to know, would the stock 530, 114 link chain work for both 14T-45T and 15T-45T tooth combinations?

And lastly, will I need any special tools for attaching the chain?
Thanks again guys! And you're welcome Detman, I've been using that link for a while, got my tires from them, they've got lots of stuff.

 

[lhanscom]

Alright, so with these responses, this is what I've come up with:

Not much difference between sunstar at JT, although moto dan saw some quick wear on the sunstar, although the JT doesn't look as good.
With that review, I think I'd get the JT 45tooth rear sproket, and maybe a 14T stock, and a 15T to experiement with rpms vs. acceleration. However what I would like to know, would the stock 530, 114 link chain work for both 14T-45T and 15T-45T tooth combinations?

And lastly, will I need any special tools for attaching the chain?
Thanks again guys! And you're welcome Detman, I've been using that link for a while, got my tires from them, they've got lots of stuff.

I think the 114 would work, but just get a 120 instead, and cut it to size. A dremel tool works pretty well to cut the chain. Any kind of grinder will work, even a file if you have time to kill.

You don't need any special tools to put on a chain, a bit pair of channel locks are handy, and a pair of needle nose pliers if you're using a clip style master link. A punch, hammer and something heavy to pound against if you're using a rivet style master. I prefer the rivet ones, they're a bit harder to put on, but they don't come off, I've had issues with the clips, but most people seem to be fine with them.

Depending on how hard it's on, you may need an impact wrench to get the front sprocket off. Loosen the nut before you take the chain off so you can use the rear brake to hold the sprocket.

 

[bwringer]

Back when I had a KZ650, I went up one tooth from stock on the front sprocket to bring RPMs down at higher speeds. I was riding a lot of longer distances (I still hadn't realized I really needed a GS shaftie) and it was pretty buzzy on the highway.

I was very happy with the result, and frankly, I couldn't detect much, if any change in acceleration. I didn't need to get a longer chain -- with a new stock length chain, there was just enough enough slack in the adjusters. On your Suzuki, YMMV, of couse.

If you do a lot of twisty, low-speed riding, you'll want stock or one tooth smaller front sprocket to give you a bit more low-end squirt. Front sprockets are pretty cheap, so why not buy a couple and experiment?

 

[fastpakr]

Just to add to the fun... My master link appears to have removed itself of its own volition this evening on the ride home from work. A helpful cager grabbed the chain and brought it to where I'd rolled off into a parking lot, and it appears to be in good shape other than the missing master. Is this something I can purchase at a local cycle store and re-install the chain? I'm new to bikes, but pretty handy with a wrench (if this hadn't happened I would be at my fiance's house trying to pull the motor and trans out of her Sable at the moment).

 

[beby99]

fastpakr...yes you can buy master links at any dealer. Since your
clip link removed itself....might I suggest the rivet kind. :wink:

 

[lhanscom]

Just to add to the fun... My master link appears to have removed itself of its own volition this evening on the ride home from work. A helpful cager grabbed the chain and brought it to where I'd rolled off into a parking lot, and it appears to be in good shape other than the missing master. Is this something I can purchase at a local cycle store and re-install the chain? I'm new to bikes, but pretty handy with a wrench (if this hadn't happened I would be at my fiance's house trying to pull the motor and trans out of her Sable at the moment).

Just in case you didn't know, you were extremely lucky this time. Usually when the chain breaks i comes around the countershaft sprocket , and starts breaking things, like your engine cases. It can also get jammed in your rear wheel locking it up. I had a master clip let go on my 1150 and it cracked the sprocket cover, and cracked the cases, luckily for me it only cracked them in the starter cavity, so damage was minimal.

Glad it worked out for you, go with a rivet link.

 

[fastpakr]

Yeah, it actually took me a second to realize what had happened because the results were so non-violent compared to all the warnings I'd read. No rear tire lockup, etc... Last night when I took off the front cover the only damage I could find was one of the flanges of the cover that a bolt goes through had been cracked off.

In the process of looking up what parts I'd need for the 530 conversion, I realized that a 78 '750 also used a 630x96 chain, with the same sprocket counts. I happen to have just that in my parents garage and was able to pirate the chain from that. It's not an O-ringer and not in perfect condition, but hadn't stretched too much and we were able to knock most of the surface corrosion right off with some WD-40 and a few minutes of spinning the rear tire by hand, followed by a good treatment with chain wax (something I must admit to neglecting on my previous chain). I rode to work today and it did just fine, so I'm going to watch it closely and see if it's going to hold up well enough to finish out the season and do the conversion over the winter.