T-Dan,Wheelie,more carb info that might matter.
T-Dan,Wheelie,more carb info that might matter.
Hi. It's important to know what 'year' stock carbs you have. If you bought your bikes used,you would'nt know for sure,they could have been changed. I bring this up because it caused me a lot of wasted time. I replaced my original carbs with a salvage set because 1 carb had a stripped side mixture screw and they would only sell the whole carb bank. They were tagged as '79's. The '78-80 carbs look identical. After going up 5 pilot sizes with bad results, I took off carbs to inspect. In comparing them with my originals,I found that they have a different pilot circuit. They had a pilot screw with a blunt cut-off tip and the passage they are in is capped at the carb throat. My originals have a sharp tipped screw and the passage is open to the throat. Following the factory manual diagram,I could see that the original carb circuit runs richer. So that's why I could'nt get rid of the constant 'spitting' out of the filters. I found some carbs like mine and was able to jet finally. Those other carbs could have other differences,I don't know. My manual says the '80 model had to pass stricter smog tests,so it was designed to run leaner. I think I was sold the '80 carb miss-marked as a '79. Wheelie says he's having trouble at low rpm, after a lot of jetting attempts. Maybe the same thing happened?
I think Wheelie should check his carbs if any doubt. If you have never touched the pilot's before,they are underneath the carb on engine side. Check the position of the screw slot(using a small mirror if on the bike)and count how much it turns in,making sure to seat it lightly. If like mine,it will be around 1-1 1/2 turns out. When you take it out,be careful to not lose small spring,it can hang up in hole and fall out when you're not looking. When you replace it,put some thin lube on the o-ring to help it not come out of its groove. T-Dan is not having low rpm trouble. If a carb swap has happened to his bike,it may not show up because he's got a stock air box. But because he's changing to pod filters,I think he should check one of his pilot screws also. I know this is a long post and I apologize if I get too detailed,I don't know how much experience you guys have. Just want to help you guys with any tips I can. Keep me posted! KK.
PS:T-Dan has this topic in the Performance section if you did'nt know. There may be other replies that interest you.
T-Dan,Wheelie,more carb info that might matter.
Hi. It's important to know what 'year' stock carbs you have. If you bought your bikes used,you would'nt know for sure,they could have been changed. I bring this up because it caused me a lot of wasted time. I replaced my original carbs with a salvage set because 1 carb had a stripped side mixture screw and they would only sell the whole carb bank. They were tagged as '79's. The '78-80 carbs look identical. After going up 5 pilot sizes with bad results, I took off carbs to inspect. In comparing them with my originals,I found that they have a different pilot circuit. They had a pilot screw with a blunt cut-off tip and the passage they are in is capped at the carb throat. My originals have a sharp tipped screw and the passage is open to the throat. Following the factory manual diagram,I could see that the original carb circuit runs richer. So that's why I could'nt get rid of the constant 'spitting' out of the filters. I found some carbs like mine and was able to jet finally. Those other carbs could have other differences,I don't know. My manual says the '80 model had to pass stricter smog tests,so it was designed to run leaner. I think I was sold the '80 carb miss-marked as a '79. Wheelie says he's having trouble at low rpm, after a lot of jetting attempts. Maybe the same thing happened?
I think Wheelie should check his carbs if any doubt. If you have never touched the pilot's before,they are underneath the carb on engine side. Check the position of the screw slot(using a small mirror if on the bike)and count how much it turns in,making sure to seat it lightly. If like mine,it will be around 1-1 1/2 turns out. When you take it out,be careful to not lose small spring,it can hang up in hole and fall out when you're not looking. When you replace it,put some thin lube on the o-ring to help it not come out of its groove. T-Dan is not having low rpm trouble. If a carb swap has happened to his bike,it may not show up because he's got a stock air box. But because he's changing to pod filters,I think he should check one of his pilot screws also. I know this is a long post and I apologize if I get too detailed,I don't know how much experience you guys have. Just want to help you guys with any tips I can. Keep me posted! KK.
PS:T-Dan has this topic in the Performance section if you did'nt know. There may be other replies that interest you.
