• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Stainless Bolt Replacement.

  • Thread starter Thread starter apopleptic
  • Start date Start date
A

apopleptic

Guest
OK, to start with, I ordered the SS screw set from Z1 and ended up having I think 5 bolts left over that weren't required.
This replaced most of the bolts on the engine with shiny new SS hex head fasteners.
So I then went on to locate all the ones that hadn't been replaced, including the cam chain tensioner bolts, one of which broke. and the handlebar bolds and the caliper slide bolts. and the electrical panel screws and the airbox screws. all the carb screws. basically, my goal is to not have a single Phillips head screw or plain bolt on the bike when finished.
Pete was helpful enough to remind me (call me out on) that SS isn't really any grade of hardness and that I maybe shouldn't replace anything heavy duty with SS. example stated was the cam chain tensioner. More on my mind though is the caliper. I usually brake with the rear more than the front and don't do much of that really, however I find the thought of shearing off the bolts and losing the front brake or handlebar for that matter(or engine) rather terrifying.

So I started researching. alot of the bolts are stamped with '7' on their heads. this makes me think that 12.9 grade bolts should be more than sufficient for replacing the load bearing bolts. I recently stumbled upon what seems to be a relatively cheap source of 12.9 grade chrome hex head fasteners which seem like they would be perfect for the caliper bracket and the engine mount bolts. but what about the bolts that hold the handlebars on? or the controls?
or the sissy bar? the shifter?

the question is, which bolts do you think really need the harder bolts and which is SS sufficient for? Should I be looking for 8.8 or 10.9 instead? nothing for sale anywhere seems to be stamped with a 7, especially when you are doing the hex heads

PS my favorite ones so far were the screws for the master cylinder reservoir. Want to know why? because I would have been riding my bike this whole time if I hadn't messed with the screws in it and had that spark the entire rebuild of the bike during riding season. :D
2011-09-21_00-20-41_912.jpg
 
Hmmm guess I'd best reply seeing my name is already in the first post :p

To be honest I get a bit lost with this whole grade of steel thing, so I just make sure I use the correct Suzuki bolt whenever it comes to something structural.

My understanding was that SS bolts are too brittle for those purposes, but as I say it's only an understanding, not something I'm aware of for technical reasons...

Anyway, I recall seeing in the factory manual a table outlining all the torque spec's and a list below that of the various types of bolts in use. I won't get down there tonight, but I will try to remember to look in the morning and find it.

I'm not sure how much it will help (if at all) but I'll post the info...
 
I usually brake with the rear more than the front and don't do much of that really, however I find the thought of shearing off the bolts and losing the front brake or handlebar for that matter(or engine) rather terrifying.

You should work on using the front brakes more; they stop faster than the rear.
 
This thread from the archives discusses the topic at hand...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=174771
Excellent my friend, it was buried among the masses of posts about SS screws, so I will quote you here.

Metric 10.9 = Suzuki "9" = SAE grade 8
Metric 8.8 = Suzuki "7" - SAE grade 5
Metric 4.6 = Suzuki "4" = SAE grade 1 (no marks on head)

So again, stainless is okay for metric 4.6 or Suzuki "4" bolts, but I would use them for anything else.
The above is what I was looking for, thanks a bunch.
So the Suzuki "7" bolts can be replaced with anything higher rated than 8.8
The one's I'm looking at are 12.9 which have a 50% higher proof load and 100% increase in the minimum tensile yield strength and 50% higher on the max tensile strength over the 8.8 standard.

http://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamCat=82
 
Can anyone speak to the markings on the cam chain tensioner bolts? I believe they were unmarked, with Phillips head, but I no longer have the originals.
Also can anyone speak to the ones that hold the caliper on the caliper bracket? mine were too rusted to make out.
Also can anyone confirm/speak to the marking or ratings or the ones marked and the '?'
2011-09-21_12-50-15_476a.jpg

Thanks!
1980 GS450.
 
Last edited:
I'll try to get into that factory manual today...

And Ed you posted a thread I saw but had completely forgotten about!
 
OK, I'm looking at the bolts that held the breather cover and the valve cover on and it seems like they are all marked with a 7. These don't seem like bolts that would need to be very strong. they also seemed to be included in the SS bolt set from Z1. Can anyone confirm?
 
Ummm I could've sworn I posted pic's of the torque sheets in this thread the other night? Maybe I was too crook...

But yes those are definitely in the Z1 kit...
 
OK, I'm looking at the bolts that held the breather cover and the valve cover on and it seems like they are all marked with a 7. These don't seem like bolts that would need to be very strong. they also seemed to be included in the SS bolt set from Z1. Can anyone confirm?

Those bolts tend to break during removal if they seize in place. Mitigating that risk is the only reason I can think of to use high strength there. BTW, using anti-seize on all stainless fasteners is recommended to avoid corrosion due to dissimilar metals.
 
Those bolts tend to break during removal if they seize in place. Mitigating that risk is the only reason I can think of to use high strength there. BTW, using anti-seize on all stainless fasteners is recommended to avoid corrosion due to dissimilar metals.
Yes, I will remember the anti seize. Got a big tube of it ready to go.
I read somewhere that the blue thread locker also acts as an anti seize between dissimilar metals?
 
I read somewhere that the blue thread locker also acts as an anti seize between dissimilar metals?

Please do not use thread locker on any bolts, unless the factory service manual calls for it.
 
Here's what I swore I posted the other night, not sure if it will help or not though:

IMG_3451.jpg


IMG_3450.jpg
 
Back
Top