• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Stator Rotor Slipping... is it easy to spot?

TxGSrider

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
So I got my new carb synchronizer out this weekend and set the carbs (a couple were a little off- but overall pretty close), and after words I shut it off and it sounded like "something" kept moving in the motor on the left side. I did it a couple more times to see if it was my imagination, and it didn't make the sound again...but now I'm paranoid. I think this weekend I'll pull the side cover... will it be pretty obvious if the rotor is slipping?
 
Last edited:
Sounds like a good time to pull off the rotor and inspect the crank taper and starter clutch. Hopefully it's not the rotor because if you heard it slipping the crank may be damaged.
 
Sounds like a good time to pull off the rotor and inspect the crank taper and starter clutch. Hopefully it's not the rotor because if you heard it slipping the crank may be damaged.

Thanks Nessism, will it be pretty obvious when I pull the cover that its been slipping? Will I be able to turn it by hand or anything?
 
I doubt it will be that loose. You will have to remove the rotor and then look for damage to the crank end.
 
If the rotor is that loose the bike wouldn't be able to start. Hopefully the noise is something else.
 
'82 1100's had a smaller diameter crank at the rotor and have a small history of breaking the crank when missing a shift at higher RPM. I think those were 23mm at the rotor.

The '83's have a 25mm (if I recall) diameter at the rotor. That 25mm end of the crank with the rotor shaft and combined counterweight/cheek plate are or were available from Suzuki - maybe no longer. If you find your crank broken or cracked call Falicon or I think, it's Pearson in Ohio ?? or call Schnitz Racing for help.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys, Ive got a puller and gasket on order. My neighbor up the street has an 82 GS1100E as well (its setting under a tarp and hasn't ran in years...1260cc, welded crank and some type of aftermarket cams, V&H exhaust) . When I first bought mine he came by and said "If you ever hear a spinning sound after you kill the engine, shut it off and fix the rotor before you screw up the crank shaft". Apparently his did it once. He polished it with emery cloth and used locktite and bolted it back together and never had another issue.
 
Had a similar experience with a highly tuned GS1000 many moons ago AND with my 1200 Bandit a few weeks ago -

In both cases applied High temp loctite red - problem solved

If you need a huge torque wrench (you'll need about 120lb/ft) - I have a brand new just calibrated one you could borrow
 
Had a similar experience with a highly tuned GS1000 many moons ago AND with my 1200 Bandit a few weeks ago -

In both cases applied High temp loctite red - problem solved

If you need a huge torque wrench (you'll need about 120lb/ft) - I have a brand new just calibrated one you could borrow

Thanks for the offer, but Ive got one. I figured I'd get it on with an impact wrench then final torque it with the torque wrench.
 
Something that I have done several times on all different type motors when the rotor spins on the crank (even slightly damaged) is to take valve lapping compound and lap the rotor to the crank. Just apply the lapping compound to the crank and inside the rotor and spin the rotor on the crank until both surfaces have a dull grey look with no shinny spots, Clean off all the lapping compound and dry the parts with lacquer thinner, apply a little red Loctite and torque it down. I would also check the starter clutch bolts while in there I have had several GS's loosen them.
 
Something that I have done several times on all different type motors when the rotor spins on the crank (even slightly damaged) is to take valve lapping compound and lap the rotor to the crank.
Great tip, great thinking
 
Back
Top