Stem bearing replacement on a 1983 GS400E, part number and advices

[Mat]

I'm planning to replace the stem steering bearing and I'd like confirmation that all balls racing part number 22-1004 is a correct replacement for my particular canadian model.

Planning to use Super Lube to pack the bearing.

Will replace the shock oil with some Belray 15W (might help with the front dive? is it okay to not use the ATF mix and only the 15W?)

I plan to remove the old bearing with a chisel and place the new one using the old race with a hammer, advice anyone?


P.S. First post of the riding season so Hello everyone

 

[slayer61]

Looks like they fit everything!

Steering Bearing Kit Kawasaki KDX200 83-06, KDX220 97-05, KDX250 81-94, KDX420 81, KDX450 82, KLX250R 94-96, KLX250S 06-20, KLX250SF 09-10, KLX300 22, KLX300 SM 21-22, KLX300(R) 97-22, KLX650 C 93-96, KLX650D1 96, KLX650R 93-96, KX125 82-91, KX250 79-91, KX420 80-81, KX500 83-04, KXT250 Tecate 84-87, ZG1200 Voyager 86-03, Suzuki AH200 Burgman 14, AN250 Burgman (Euro) 98-08, AN400 Burgman 03-16, AN650 Burgman 03-17, DR125SE 94-02, DR200 S 18-20, DR200 SE 96-17, DR250 90-93, DR250S 90-95, DR350 90-99, DR350SE 90-99, DR400 80, DR500 81-83, DR650RS (Euro) 90-96, DR650SE 92-95, DR800 (Euro) 90-97, GN250 82-88, GN400 80-82, GR650 Tempter 83, GS1000 78-79, GS1000E 78-80, GS1000G 80-81, GS1000GL 80-81, GS1000L 79, GS1000S 79-82, GS1100 82-84, GS1100E 80-83, GS1100ES 83, GS1100L 80, GS1100S 83, GS1150 83-86, GS450 80-88, GS500 89-02, GS500F 04-09, GS500H 07-09, GS550 80-86, GS650E 81-82, GS650G 81-83, GS650GL 81-83, GS650M 83, GS700 85, GS750 80-82, GS750E 83, GS750ES 83, GS750L 81, GS750S 83, GS750T 83, GS850G 79-83, GSF1200 Bandit 96-06, GSF1250 Bandit 07-09, GSF1250SA Bandit 16, GSF400 Bandit 91-93, GSF600S Bandit 95-04, GSF650 (Euro) 05-08, GSX1100F 88-93, GSX1100G 91-94, GSX1200 (Euro) 99-00, GSX1250 11-12, GSX1400 (Euro) 02-07, GSX250 (Euro) 91-97, GSX250R 18-20, GSX600F Katana 88-06, GSX650F 08-09, GSX750F Katana 89-06, GSXR1100 86-98, GSX-R400 (Euro) 90-94, GSX-R600 92-93, GSXR750 86-95, GSXS750 16-21, GSXS750 ABS 21, GV1200 Madura 85-86, GV1400 Cavalcade 86-88, GV700 Madura 85, GW250 14-17, GZ 125 MARAUDER (Euro) 98-07, GZ250 99-10, LS650 Savage 86-19, M109R 06-21, PE175 80-84, PE250 80-81, PE400 80-81, RF600R 93-97, RF900R 94-98, RG125 (Euro) 92-94, RGV250 (Euro) 89-96, RM125 88, RM250 88, RS175 80-82, RS250 80-81, RV 125 Van Van (Euro) 03-10, RV200 17-19, SFV650 09-15, SP500 81-83, SV650 99-20, SV650A 17-20, TU 250 (Euro) 97-01, TU250 09-19, UH125 Burgman (Euro) 02-10, UH150 Burgman (Euro) 02-06, UH200 Burgman (Euro) 07-10, UH200 Burgman 16-17, VL 125 INTRUDER (Euro) 00-07, VL 250 INTRUDER (Euro) 00-07, VL1500 Intruder 98-17, VL1500B Intruder 17-19, VL1500BT 13, VL1500LC C90 Intruder 05-09, VL1500T C90T Boulevard Touring 06-09, VL800 C50 10-21, VL800 C50 Volusia 05-09, VL800 Volusia 01-04, VL800T C50T 10-21, VLR1800 08-09, VS1400GL 87-94, VS1400GLP 95-04, VS1400GLP S83 05-09, VS600 INTRUDER (Euro) 95-97, VS700 Intruder 86-87, VS750GLP Intruder 88-91, VS800GL Intruder 92-09, VX800 90-93, VZ1500 13-19, VZ800 M50 Marauder 05-19, VZ800 Marauder 97-04, VZR1500 M90 09, Victory Hammer 05-08, Jackpot 06-07, Kingpin 04-08, Vegas 03-05, Vegas 8 Ball 06-07, Yamaha BOLT 14-20, BOLT C-SPEC 15-16, BOLT R-SPEC 14-22, CZD300 XMAX 18, DT X 125 (EURO) 05-06, DT125 (EURO) 05-06, FJ09 15-16, FJ1100 84-85, FJ1200 86-93, FZ07 15-17, FZ09 14-17, FZ1 01-05, FZ6 04-09, FZ6R 09-17, FZ700 87, FZ750 (SA) 91, FZ750 85-88, FZR1000 87-95, FZR400 88-90, FZR500 (SA) 89, FZR600 89-99, FZR750 87-88, FZS 1000 S 01-05, FZS FAZER 600 98-04, FZX700 86-87, IT175 77-83, IT200 84-86, IT250 77-83, IT400 77-79, IT425 80, IT465 81-82, IT490 83-84, MT01 (SA) 05-09, MT03 20-22, MT07 18-22, MT09 (EURO) 14, MT09 18-20, RZ 500 84, SR950 17, TDM850 (Euro) 94-01, TDM850 92-93, Tracer 900 19, Tracer 900 GT 19-20, TRX850 (Euro) 96-97, TT350 86-87, TT600 83-86, TTR230 05-22, VMX12 V-Max (SA) 13, VMX12 V-Max 85-07, XJ1100 82, XJ600 Seca II 92-98, XJ700 Maxim 85-86, XJ900 (SA) 00-10, XJ900 83, XJ900S DIVERSION (Euro) 95-01, XJR SP 1300 (Euro) 99-01, XJR1200 (Euro) 95-97, XJR1300 (Euro) 02-06, XJS600 DIVERSION (Euro) 95-02, XS1100 78-81, XS750 77-79, XS850 G 80, XS850 H 81, XS850 LG 80, XS850 LH 81, XS850 SG 80, XS850 SH 81, XSR700 18-22, XSR900 16-21, XT250 84, XT350 85-00, XT550 82-83, XT600 (SA) 96-02, XT600 84-95, XT600E (Euro) 96-02, XTZ 250 (SA) 07-12, XTZ 700 Tenere 21-22, XTZ TENERE 660 (Euro) 94-09, XTZ750 SUPER TENERE (SA) 89-95, XV1000 Virago 84-85, XV1100 Virago 86-99, XV1600 Road Star 99-03, XV1700 Road Star S 12-14, XV1700 Road Star Silverado 04-11, XV700 Virago 84-87, XV750 Virago 88-97, XVS1100 V-Star (SA) 14, XVS1100 V-Star 99-09, XVS1300 STRYKER 11-17, XVS1300 V STAR (SA) 07, XVS1300 V STAR 07-17, XVS650 V-Star 98-16, XVS95 V STAR 11-17, XVZ 1300 A Royal Star 96, XVZ 1300 D Venture Royal 86-93, XVZ12 Venture 83-85, XVZ13 Royal Star 96-13, YZ100 82-83, YZ125 77-86, YZ250 77-87, YZ400 77-79, YZ465 80-81, YZ490 82-90, YZF1000 (SA) 96-01, YZF1000 97, YZF600R 95-07, YZF750 (SA) 93-96, YZF750 94-98, YZFR3 15-22, YZF-R7 22

 

[LAB3]

Was taking a look at doing a front fork swap and although the stem lengths are all different it seems that Suzuki's tended to use the same bearings.

 

[Mat]

Alright I will go with this bearing and pretty confident this will do it, thanks.

I have another question where I guess few will have hands-on experience with:

On my front brake caliper I have something connected called a damper (I think this is called like so).
This is a mysterious module that is attached to the left fork with four hex screws and a small 8 inch brake line loop connects it to the front caliper:


If you ever happen to ever had one on your GS I'd appreciate knowing what to expect when I remove it ...like is it just attached to the fork or is there some liquid going from the module inside the fork? should I completely remove it, does it serve a useful purpose? Whats this??

EDIT: found some info in this tread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...90-83-gs650m-82-83-gs750sg750e-s-d-front-fork

I'd like to have some opinions as what to do or check to reduce front dive when braking hard (I will start with some 15W when I reassemble the fork)

 

[Mat]

I just drained the oil from the fork and now I know why the seals weren't leaking ...and why the bike would dive so much... there was barely 3 oz of liquid in the left fork and maybe 2 oz in the right one

Guess I better order seals then?

And about the mysterious module, it's called an anti-dive system and this restrict the fork oil flow only when brake is applied thus If you have oil left in the fork supposedly helps reduce the front fork compression when braking before cornering...

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

That’s an anti dive system included on some 82 and later models. Never seen it on just one fork, but I guess if there’s only one front caliper, they’re can be only one anti dive unit. Not sure if your model came with it or not. The supplement at this link explains a lot about it. https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...SUPPLEMENT.pdf

Those who maintain the system claim they work extremely well. Many remove the anti dive unit and replace it with a block off plate that has to be fabricated IIRC.

 

[Baatfam]

That’s an anti dive system included on some 82 and later models. Never seen it on just one fork, but I guess if there’s only one front caliper, they’re can be only one anti dive unit. Not sure if your model came with it or not. The supplement at this link explains a lot about it. https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...SUPPLEMENT.pdf

Those who maintain the system claim they work extremely well. Many remove the anti dive unit and replace it with a block off plate that has to be fabricated IIRC.

I've never seen an anti-dive unit on a single disc bike, either....course, that doesn't mean much.

There is a third option with the anti-dive units. Just disconnect them, run normal lines, and plug the holes.
Mine had block off plates when I bought it, but they always leaked. So I found some anti-dive units, plugged them, painted them, and mounted them.

 

[Mat]

Hey thanks to both of you. I'll update this post and tell you how it goes when I dissasemble it after work today. The two small o-rings in a groove makes me wonder...

Is it normal for fork oil to be extremely black and seemingly full of suspended metal ?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

makes me wonder...Is it normal for fork oil to be extremely black and seemingly full of suspended metal ?

You already know the answer to that.

 

[Nessism]

The steering stem bearings for your bike are the same as the common GS450E model, so that bearing kit will work.

Adding ATF into the fork oil is an old-skool trick that was used before Fork Oil was invented. I wouldn't bother. Realize, though, the ATF would have thinned the 15W fork oil, resulting in something thinner. If you run straight 15W, the fork will ride a little more rough. If you weigh more than 200 lbs, the 15W would be good. If under, 10W may be better.

 

[Grimly]

Hey thanks to both of you. I'll update this post and tell you how it goes when I dissasemble it after work today. The two small o-rings in a groove makes me wonder...

Is it normal for fork oil to be extremely black and seemingly full of suspended metal ?

Yes, and smell like whale chit.
If it's the real old original fork oil, it might even be fish oil, as that's what some factories used.
The suspended metal particles are not a good sign, but if you waggle the forks and there's still no play in them, you've got away with it.

 

[Mat]

Thanks to you all tree

You already know the answer to that.

Not really :friendly_wink: I really have no experience, I value your opinion real much.

Okay I spent 3 hours and a half with my dad removing the front fork.
The anti-dive had nice little o-rings that I'll probably be able to reuse.

We managed to remove the lower bearing inner race from the shaft (took a lot of patience with only a big screwdriver) and also the outer race of the top bearing with some metal bar, all without damage

See how the old top bearing came out: (damage was there, not done by me)

See how the race is not flush with the stem, was that normal?



The lower bearing looked fine, however I really dont know how I am going to remove the lower outer race from the stem, I didn't expect it to need such an offset tool to bang on it.
I am considering leaving it there and only replacing the bearing but I've read somewhere that this might be silly.

Another silly thing I plan to do is to fill the fork with 15W (I already bought the bottle) then soon after realize theses seals needed replacement (I've read that many replacement seals leak not long after being replaced). How do you source good seals? Your opinions very much welcome.

I didn't dissassemble the fork yet cause I can't get that 6mm hex nut at the bottom to move. I don't have an impact ready 6mm hex socket that is long enough (2 inch) and my bare hand with a normal hex key in pliers didn't do it. Little tricks welcome here or if you can tell me what tool exist to help me with that.

With my big experience I feel no waggle on the forks but what do I know.

Pretty much happy with the experience so far :excitement: Learned much built confidence

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Sorry, wasn’t meaning to be flip. I was where you are just a couple of years ago. No, the fork oil should not be black and it should be free of particulates.

Do you have a service manual?

As for disassembling the forks- once you remove the cap from the inner tube (top section) and remove any spacers and springs, you won’t be able see (probably) the top of the damper tube show in my pic below. What you need is a way to keep the damper tube from spinning while you turn the hex screw on the bottom. There is a special tool available, but not necessary. There are different shaped tops to these damper tubes. Some have a hex shape, and a tool fashioned from a length of all-thread rod and two nuts jammed together that fits the hex shape in the top of the damper works for many.

Some, like mine, have a round top. Whittling the end of a broom handle as I did should work for round or hex shape. You just need to jam it into the top of the damper while you turn the bottom screw. It’s probably got some loctite on it.

 

[Mat]

Nothing to be sorry about Rich. Hey I just realised you answered my post number 5 up there while I edited and we posted few minutes apart

I use 3 different manuals that covers the GSX 400E but mainly Clymer's manual. I find Clymer's manual has good tips you can't find in the Suzuki one for clueless guys like me. To be honest I struggle a bit trying to follow up with all the small differences I encounter with my bike (like my self-named damper, the canadian particularity and the models years)

I re-read Clymer's and I just realised I did not remove the spring stopper snap ring yet. I just thought this was a fixed item for the air valve not to leak.... Will use the broom stick trick thanks! Still have to figure how to remove the snap ring without eyelets...

I will update how it goes with the lower race later today, but certainly not before I watch the new King Coronation as every good subject should:highly_amused:

 

[Grimly]

I will update how it goes with the lower race later today, but certainly not before I watch the new King Coronation as every good subject should:highly_amused:

Yeah, and I'll be swearing allegiance.
As soon as I see a flying pig.

 

[Mat]

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Yeah, and I'll be swearing allegiance.
As soon as I see a flying pig.

Same feeling here in the Province of Quebec I see you are from Ireland so I don't need to ask

Okay back on topic, I was super lucky today, I found one particular prybar in my masonry(!) tools that was perfect for tapping out the lower race. Steering bearing replacement a success!

Made some errors during reassembly (bad cable routing, bad guessing, oil spills, etc) that made it a fun journey with my old and very patient dad.

On the other hand I never been able to dissassemble the fork. I guess i will have to order some impact-ready hex key.
I had already drained the oil so I had to refill using a syringe with a little tube attached that I inserted in the drain hole, holding it at 45 degrees while filling. I put 160 ml of 15W in each fork and used a small bicycle pump to put around 20 psi in each fork. I'll have to see after a few gas tanks how that oil and air holds up. The 20 miles test ride went great and I could see some improvement on the handling especially when braking hard, but not so much on the ride itself.

I am very confused with fork disassembly, on my fork when I try to remove the bottom 6mm hex screw nothing moves at all (I mean can't break the screw loose at all but there are no parts that turn freely that I need to immobilize, seemingly). I did remove the snap ring and hoped the things under it would pop out but I guess that 6mm screw at the bottom is the problem anyway.
Here is some pictures

When trying to unscrew the 6mm bottom hex screw I expected the silver part of the fork to want to turn with it but I just hold the black part of the fork and ...don't have enough hand torque to release it (unless I get my hand on an impact 6mm hex key? is that it?)
There's some basic I don't understand and need to be explained perhaps?


LAST EDIT: A search for fork disassembly leads to many informative reads but if anyone want to point me to a discussion they remember that would help you are very welcome


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