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Stuck Shim

93Bandit

93Bandit

Forum Mentor
I'm adjusting valves on my 750 and the new shims I ordered from Z1 don't have rounded edges like the OEM shims. this makes them a little tighter fit in the bucket. After installing one of the new shims, the valve clearance is still too tight. Double checked my numbers but it's the correct shim size so I tried to remove it and it's stuck in the bucket. I suspect it's not sitting level in the bucket and isn't fully seated causing it to get stuck. I've turned the engine over probably 60 times trying to get the cam lobe to work it loose. I've tried prying it out with a screwdriver and gave it some light love-taps with a small hammer. It will not budge.

I thought about starting the bike and letting it run and get hot hoping that would free up the shim, but the bike doesn't run right now.

Anything else I should try before pulling the cams? I really don't want to go that far in if I can avoid it.
 
I find using one (or two) of those telescopic pen magnets allows you to more easily lift a snug fitting shim square rather than prying on an angle with a screwdriver.
 
Shims are occasionally labeled wrong, even OEM. Good luck with Zed's method to remove.
 
zed1015 said:
I find using one (or two) of those telescopic pen magnets allows you to more easily lift a snug fitting shim square rather than prying on an angle with a screwdriver.
Click to expand...

I don't know man, this sucker is stuck. But I'll give it a go and see if it works. Appreciate the idea.
 
Instead of running the engine, which you can't do anyway, maybe a heat gun or torch on that spot would help.


Curious if you used a zip tie. I've had readings not add up after changing shims even after carefully measuring thickness of unmarked (or incorrectly marked shims. Just assumed it was carbon dislodged and under the valve seat. Possibly oil under the shim. Either one would eventually rectify itself while riding, I suppose. I trusted my method and measurements and moved on. Haven't burned any valves yet. Knock wood!
 
Burque73 said:
Instead of running the engine, which you can't do anyway, maybe a heat gun or torch on that spot would help.


Curious if you used a zip tie. I've had readings not add up after changing shims even after carefully measuring thickness of unmarked (or incorrectly marked shims. Just assumed it was carbon dislodged and under the valve seat. Possibly oil under the shim. Either one would eventually rectify itself while riding, I suppose. I trusted my method and measurements and moved on. Haven't burned any valves yet. Knock wood!
Click to expand...

I thought about using a torch, but I'm not too sure if it'll damage any or not? I guess it shouldn't, it's all metal in there anyway. I wouldn't get it too hot, just warm everything up.

As for method, I use my Suzuki special tool instead of zip ties. If there were a chunk of carbon holding the valve open, it would increase the cam to shim clearance instead of decrease it like it is in my situation. I've got a thinner shim, but the clearance will be way out of spec loose, probably around ~0.150mm. I don't know what I'll do about that yet, gotta get that shim out first.
 
93Bandit said:
I thought about using a torch, but I'm not too sure if it'll damage any or not? I guess it shouldn't, it's all metal in there anyway. I wouldn't get it too hot, just warm everything up.

As for method, I use my Suzuki special tool instead of zip ties. If there were a chunk of carbon holding the valve open, it would increase the cam to shim clearance instead of decrease it like it is in my situation. I've got a thinner shim, but the clearance will be way out of spec loose, probably around ~0.150mm. I don't know what I'll do about that yet, gotta get that shim out first.
Click to expand...


Good point.

Maybe a suction cup? Like a valve lapping thing. Of course, you'd have to remove the cam though.

You could just load your bike up onto a trailer and drive under this thing.

hqdefault.jpg


It'll yank it right out!
 
if you can rotate the bucket you should be able to see if its seated right or not. If it is sharpen a nail real good and tap it under the shim through the buckets notch.
 
I had some issues w removing a shim. I used a utility knife w a new blade to break it loose thru that notch in the bucket.
 
I was able to get the bike to start and run today, so I ran it up to op temp. I'll see if that freed up the shim. If not, I'll start down the list of suggestions from all you guys. Thanks for the help!
 
I have the genuine factory bucket tool now. Had the motion pro one but after a while the edges start wearing off at which point it continually slipped off the bucket. OEM tool is made of hardened steel while moton pro tool is no where near the metal quality of the real deal.
 
chuck hahn said:
I have the genuine factory bucket tool now. Had the motion pro one but after a while the edges start wearing off at which point it continually slipped off the bucket. OEM tool is made of hardened steel while moton pro tool is no where near the metal quality of the real deal.
Click to expand...

Huh... After reading this I checked which tool I have. I have the motion pro tool. I bought it years ago and thought it was the OEM Suzuki tool, but apparently it isn't. Where did you get your genuine one? My motion pro tool still has sharp edges but I'm sure it'll wear out eventually.
 
Came with the factory shim kit i bought. has the factory tweezers for shim removal too.
 
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