Success report: changed fork seals without separating fork tubes

[t3rmin]

Wow. Just changed my fork seals using the method described here:
http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Breakers/8462/KLR650/ForkSeal-RR.html

Piece. Of. Cake. Turn your air compressor loose on the fork air valve and the old seal pops out just as nice as you please! No need to remove the inner fork tube!

Yeah it's been mentioned here before but I had to bring it up again. I wasn't looking forward to tackling the forks but this really made the project a cinch.

 

[DaveDanger]

This method may earn a try on my 81 GS850. I'm always in favor of trying something slightly unorthodox

 

[rmarrs]

Wow. Just changed my fork seals using the method described here:
http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Breakers/8462/KLR650/ForkSeal-RR.html

Piece. Of. Cake. Turn your air compressor loose on the fork air valve and the old seal pops out just as nice as you please! No need to remove the inner fork tube!

Yeah it's been mentioned here before but I had to bring it up again. I wasn't looking forward to tackling the forks but this really made the project a cinch.

You could not have posted this at a more opportune time. I just got home today and noticed a small puddle of oil under my front forks. You can imagine my fury, considering I replaced them a little more than 3 months ago. Something tells me, I'm going to be trying this method.

 

[NATEO]

hm...hopefully I can cancel my repair order at the Suzuki dealer... all I wanted to do was have the damper rod removed, as I dont have the right tools, but if I dont have to disassemble, I dont need the work to be done.

Thanks for the link!

 

[Clone]

you still have to remove the upper tube from the triple tree that way, it doesn't seem to be that great a way. I always found that removing the lower fork tube was easier than taking the triple apart. But that is just me
8-[

 

[crag antler]

Thanks for the tip.
I'll have to try it and post my results here\\/

 

[Road_Clam]

Wow. Just changed my fork seals using the method described here:
http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Breakers/8462/KLR650/ForkSeal-RR.html

Piece. Of. Cake. Turn your air compressor loose on the fork air valve and the old seal pops out just as nice as you please! No need to remove the inner fork tube!

Yeah it's been mentioned here before but I had to bring it up again. I wasn't looking forward to tackling the forks but this really made the project a cinch.

What about all the forks without a nitrogen fill valve? This method seems ok for new air or nitrogen adjustable forks, but if you have an old scool style fork, this can't be done.

The other negitive about this air pressure trick, is many times fork seals also go bad from worn out fork slider bushings. When you blow out the seal, you never get a chance to inspect the bushings for excessive wear.

 

[t3rmin]

you still have to remove the upper tube from the triple tree that way, it doesn't seem to be that great a way. I always found that removing the lower fork tube was easier than taking the triple apart. But that is just me
8-[

Just loosen the upper and lower pinches, remove the wheel/brakes/fender, and you're out. I always figured that was the easy part. ;-)

You'd have to do most of that even if you left the upper tube clamped in the triple, wouldn't you?

 

[t3rmin]

What about all the forks without a nitrogen fill valve? This method seems ok for new air or nitrogen adjustable forks, but if you have an old scool style fork, this can't be done.

The other negitive about this air pressure trick, is many times fork seals also go bad from worn out fork slider bushings. When you blow out the seal, you never get a chance to inspect the bushings for excessive wear.

Well you do need a way to get the air into the forks to pop out the seal. If you don't have air forks with the fill valve you can't use this method (unless you rigged up something with the drain bolt maybe?). Somebody else recently suggested overfilling the forks with oil then compressing them hard (in a press, if necessary) to pop out the seals (after removing the circlip, of course!). This would work without an air valve and it's the same basic idea.

And you're right about the bushings. If you have any doubts about the integrity of the rest of your fork components, you'd probably want to dismantle and inspect fully. I felt like my forks were in really good shape otherwise so I didn't feel that was necessary.

 

[salty_monk]

When you did this did you get the impression you could pump adequate pressure in with a manual pump rather than a compressor?

I presume so as the fork legs don't hold much volume....

Might try this way myself (now I've got all the tools... doh!)

Dan

 

[t3rmin]

When you did this did you get the impression you could pump adequate pressure in with a manual pump rather than a compressor?

I wouldn't be surprised if that worked. Once the circlip is out there's not much holding that seal. Good luck!

 

[salty_monk]

Thanks, I can certainly get more than 100 PSI with my track pump so it should work.

Dan

 

[arveejay]

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7286/seal3sm5.jpg Just make sure your fork is fully extended, drywall screw, pull old seal out. No pressurized oil vapor blowing around and no mess either.

 

[NATEO]

ok, I tried this the other night... Of course I tried the one that WASNT leaking first. I got the dust cap off and noticed it was all rusty underneath. no problem I thought, all the more reason to change it... took the spring out, hooked up my air, and put a little in... the forks extended, but that was it... little more air, nothing... I checked the pressure, and had 89PSI in there... and it wasnt budging.... I didnt think of using a manual pump though...

the other seal should come out fairly easy, though...

 

[bonanzadave]

I took mine totally apart. New fork seals and steering stem bearings. Now Im wondering about the reassembly. what gets tightened first ? Steering nut, upper & lwr fork tree, front wheel axle ? Whats the proceedure to get everything aligned back up ?

 

[t3rmin]

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7286/seal3sm5.jpg Just make sure your fork is fully extended, drywall screw, pull old seal out. No pressurized oil vapor blowing around and no mess either.

Hey that's a good idea too. Maybe one on each side and you can work it out evenly?

 

[t3rmin]

ok, I tried this the other night... Of course I tried the one that WASNT leaking first. I got the dust cap off and noticed it was all rusty underneath. no problem I thought, all the more reason to change it... took the spring out, hooked up my air, and put a little in... the forks extended, but that was it... little more air, nothing... I checked the pressure, and had 89PSI in there... and it wasnt budging.... I didnt think of using a manual pump though...

the other seal should come out fairly easy, though...

I just kept the air chuck on there and air flowing 'till the seal popped. Dunno how much pressure it took, but it very well might have been more than 89psi. Any reason you didn't just let loose with it? I doubt your average consumer-class compressor has enough power to damage it or be terribly unsafe, even if you tried.

 

[salty_monk]

Well thanks for the tip, I used this method on mine this evening & it worked great.

I used a bicycle "track" pump (stirrup type) rated to 160 PSI.

For info the better sealed fork leg showed around 170 PSI (right off the gauge) before it went & the bigger leaker went at around 155PSI. Nate you need to keep filling!!

Progressive fork spring fitted with 40mm spacers & 15wt oil. Just need a couple of new nuts & bolts for the top clamps on the forks & I'll be test riding.

Interesting that when I got it off I realised that the old forks with no air (always struggled to get the right amount of air in there) were about halfway through their travel with me on board. Now it's around an inch.

To fit the new seal I used a 2' length of 1-1/2" waste pipe from Home Depot. About $1.50..... Slid over the top & tap in to place.

Thanks once again for the tip.

Dan

 

[Billy Ricks]

I took mine totally apart. New fork seals and steering stem bearings. Now Im wondering about the reassembly. what gets tightened first ? Steering nut, upper & lwr fork tree, front wheel axle ? Whats the proceedure to get everything aligned back up ?

This answer is a little late, but for future reference you start at the axle and work your way up.

 

[mortation]

OK Now this I am gonna try. Exactly the half baked way to do things I wish the picture would load on the original link though. I like pictures