Super stator !!!

[posplayr]

Posplayr- remember that later models of the GK had a larger stock r/r. You can see the original next to the FH012aa in the previous post.

Hope this helps.

- JC

To get more power you need either:

1. bigger stator (for either more windings or more current capcity)
2. more powerful magnets in the rotor
3. a more efficent R/R (lower diode voltage drops like a FET).

So in 1984 1 or 2 was more likely

 

[Larry D]

Here's some more pics. Jim, I confirmed last night that the stator is putting out 31 vac at idle and 102 vac at 5000 rpm.

First a comparison of R/R's. Left to right--GK, 850, Honda.

The sticker on the Honda R/R.

New connectors on Honda R/R. 3 yellow stator wires, 2 Green grounds, 2 Red hot, 1 sense wire.

Here's a couple of the Honda R/R in place. It's not such a tight fit after all.

Connections ready to be wrapped. I still have to connect the sense wire. The 3 wires bundled on the left are the former wires for the stator connections that have been abandoned.

It all fits well with plenty of room behind the side cover.

 

[Larry D]

I forgot to ask.

I'm thinking of getting some type of gauge to monitor the health of my charging system, just to be able to keep an eye on it while I'm riding.

Any suggestions ??

 

[Steve]

Look to see if you have a place in the fairng that is somewhat protected from the weather.
This is what we are using on my wife's 850:


Available from Amazon for $27, an eBay vendor for $26, or California Sport Touring for $25.

NOTE: this unit is NOT waterproof, but its ability to shed water is greatly enhance by spraying a couple of coats of clear polyurethane over the display.

It's called a "5-in-1" meter, but the three functions that are on all the time (and shown in the picture above) are clock, voltage and air temperature.
All nice to see at a glance.

.

 

[Larry D]

Thanks Steve. I remember seeing this unit here, I was hoping it would be posted. I forgot it was your's.

Have you done any testing ? Does it seem like an accurate unit ?

I think that it would work perfectly for my needs.

 

[Steve]

Have you done any testing ? Does it seem like an accurate unit ?

Testing? :-k Of course.

Time - seems to be accurate until it needs to be adjusted for Daylight Saving Time (and back).
Voltage - can be calibrated with an adjustment on the back. Once adjusted to a calibrated meter, it's within 0.1 volt at all times.
Temperature - well within a degree (but on a bike, ... who cares?

).

My only 'complaints' about this unit are that it's not waterproof, so you need to address that issue, and the backlight. As mentioned, I have sprayed a couple coats of clear polyurethane on there with decent success, but her meter lives in a location that is sheltered from direct rainfall.
The unit is wired so the display is ON all the time, but it does not drain the battery. It does not draw much more current than a wristwatch display. Look at the size of the battery on your watch, then look at the size of the battery in your bike. Don't worry about it. The display is wired to go on and off with the key, but some of the ones I have seen were not all that bright. If you don't ride much at night, it's not that big a deal. Along with the backlight, you get the three voltage indicator lights, so you can see what's happening by watching those at night. The red light is ON and a beeper sounds if voltage goes below 11.5. The yellow light is on from 11.5 to 12.5 (I think), then the green light is on from 12.6 and up.

.

 

[Larry D]

Thanks again Steve. It's on my "I'm going to buy it" list.

 

[Larry D]

I'm having some difficulties hooking up my sense wire. I tried the taillight wire and the oil pressure switch wire and charging would climb to 15+v.

I'd like to wire it directly to the +positive on the battery where it's a solid 14.3v from +-2500rpms to redline.

After some searching I found this. Is this how it's done ?



Get the relay and touch every pair of points with an ohmeter, one pair will have a reading of somewhere between 10 and 10,000 ohms (probably around 200-400). This pair is the coil.

Connect either coil terminal to ground. Connect the other coil terminal to any point in the wiring harness that is switched on by the ignition switch, and is always on when the switch is on.
The other two terminals on the relay will now make contact any time the ignition switch is turned on.

Get an inline fuse and a ring terminal. The fuse handles less than an amp, so any value fuse from 1 to 10 amps is fine. The ring terminal goes directly on the battery positive terminal, and then is connected directly to the fuse. Make sure that all the wiring between the ring terminal and fuse is VERY well insulated, and protected from chafing or cutting. If this wire contacts anything it shouldn't, the bike will catch fire ...
The other end of the fuse goes to one of the remaining connections on the relay. The sense lead goes dircectly to the last connection on the relay.

Don't connect anything else to the line from the battery to the relay, or the relay to the sense lead. The whole point is to have the sense lead have a "pure" connection to the battery.

 

[posplayr]

Don't connect anything else to the line from the battery to the relay, or the relay to the sense lead. The whole point is to have the sense lead have a "pure" connection to the battery.

Aha you have discovered the achillies heel of the Handa R/R.
I would do a coil relay mod and then connect the 6th wire to the same output that powers your ignition circuit. A relay has very low rsistance and will not drop any significant voltage at the currents the ignition will draw.

The appraoch above is overkill; Put the relay to good use with a combo ignition / R/R sense relay.

If the relay contacts ever do get dirty, it is easy enough to swap out a new one. Remember to mount the relay some where dry, cooler and not subject to vibration.

 

[Larry D]

I understand the idea of the coil relay mod and really appreciate your advise, not just on this thread but, throughout these forums.

I have no issues with voltage drops anywhere in the electrical system and quite honestly, I don't want to mess with anything that's not needed. I've about had it with multimeters, snippers, wires and crimpers.........I much more comfortable tearing apart the top-end of the engine.

I'm going with the instructions above....as long as it will work properly and won't blow anything up.

 

[Larry D]

My 750's charging system works great and I never had to mess with it.

The GK, on the other hand, is giving me an electrical education.

More pics to follow......

 

[Larry D]

I followed the instructions from post 35 in this thread and guess what ?....

SUCCESS !!!!!

I have 14.5 @ idle and a rock solid 14.34 @ around 3200rpm and up.

I picked up a $6.00 relay from Radio Shack, a fuse holder and some 5 amp fuses. I put it all together as described a it works great !! I removed my tool holder to make room.....it's a GK, I have plenty of room to put things......I zip-tied the relay in place with a strip of old inner tube for cushion. It's stable and not going anywhere.

I'm pretty happy. A couple other issues on the GK, then, it's riding time !!

Here's a few pics.

 

[gs road racer]

Larry can you do a schematic of this mod?

 

[Larry D]

Larry can you do a schematic of this mod?

It's pretty easy, really. Just follow the instruction in the previous post. The relay had a "drawing" on it that showed the internal workings of the it and made it much easier. This is the post where I found it. It should help you.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140833&highlight=sense+wire


Honestly, I have no idea how to draw something like that.......

 

[Larry D]

Larry,

Ain't life great when things finally work out? :clap:

Here's a tip: To protect the relay and the leads coming into it, on the GS550L we cut about 4 or 5 inch section of old bicycle inner tube and slid it over the relay with the connections attached.

We slid it down so it was even with the top of the relay (you can see the top of the relay even with the tube), and wrapped the other end with black tape.

A wrap or two at the relay end just to hold it all securely, and now you have a weatherproof and vibration resistant housing that looks decent. Sort of puts you in mind of the boots at the end of your brake or clutch cable.

If you ever need to change the relay, just slide or fold the rubber tube down a bit and viola!

You've done a good job, but you also want to protect that relay a little from vibrations and heat and such.

I hope this helps.

- JC

Great idea !! I was pondering how to protect it a little better.

Thanks !!!!