• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

suzuki gs1000 st

  • Thread starter Thread starter met
  • Start date Start date
M

met

Guest
hi all,

amongst the many other things that will follow, im just in the process of replacing the chain and sprocket on my st....

please see video showing what i found after removing the side case.

https://youtu.be/ZjTZuRUBAe4

i have this small sprocket which is held on by 3 phillips screws.
over this is a nut which is freeplaying but doesn't seem to go anywhere, either in or out.
if you look closely it looks like it may have been once welded, as there are two weld marks on it.
as ive never seen this before, my question is:...
is this normal ? .................and if not, what is supposed to be the correct procedure in untightening this nut,
in order to pull out and replace the sprocket...?
and later, the correct procedure in tightening this after finishing with the job?

a little stumped here....

thanks in advance
m
 
Thats the wrong nut and i would bet your threads are torn to pieces. Your basically screwed unless you weld the nut back on or do some tranny work is my thought.
 
That's sad to see! To repair that correctly, it's going to be a big job.
 
Pull it all off and post a picture. Hopefully it's not as bad as we think.
 
thanks everyone for your input.

after grinding away the weld, i have removed the nut and the sprocket
and added another video of this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmq9bnGxqmM

as chuck says, the thread is rooted.

this leaves me with two options:

1. replace chain and sprocket and close of with nut and weld.
2. replace chain and sprocket and close of with nut and split pin after i drill
at the end of spindle.

i didnt want to pull down half the bike to fix this because there is no need at present. i figure i can come back and do it properly, when the tranny goes.

in the meantime, i'm looking for better ideas......?

m
 
You may be waiting the rest of your life for then tranny to fail. Sereuosly though, you can pull the engine in less than an hour, an hour to pop the bottom end off, and swap out the countershaft. Its not as daunting a task as you may be expecting.
 
Maybe a bad/dumb idea, but could you re-tap the shaft with a smaller diameter thread and use an appropriate nut? I don't think there is a huge amount of stress going on there. It just needs to keep the sprocket on the shaft. Actually tapping it while on the bike might be problematic though.
 
Maybe a bad/dumb idea, but could you re-tap the shaft with a smaller diameter thread and use an appropriate nut? I don't think there is a huge amount of stress going on there. It just needs to keep the sprocket on the shaft. Actually tapping it while on the bike might be problematic though.

Running a die over it to refresh threads to the next size smaller is possible and it's the way I would do it if it were mine.
Depending on how inclined you are to do that, you may want a machinist to help out.
I see no side pressure on this but I welcome someone more knowledgeable to correct me.
 
thanks folks for the input.....tapping is worth a try.
might be the go....!!!!

cheers
 
sorry, yes a die....

it should be a 20mm thread which is now gone.....
im thinking perhaps a 19mm die with 1 pitch might do it....
perhaps even an 18mm with 1 pitch ....?

and perhaps a right hand thread,
as that sprocket is always spinning to the left....?
 
With a micrometer or calipers measure where you are at right now. Measure the lowest spot.
Now comes the tricky part. Put the bike on the center stand and start it in a well ventilated area.
Put it in 5th gear and spin the shaft.
Now with a file, carefully file the shaft smooth and straight to the size you are going to thread it (preferably 19 mm).
Put a 2-3 mm chamfer on the end of the shaft.
Find a die like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drill-Ameri...958645?hash=item2a7107bbb5:g:ZQIAAOSwPCVX3d4V and a socket to drive it.
Right hand thread is ok.
With the engine off and the transmission in first gear, start the die as perfectly perpendicular to the shaft as possible.
Watch for the welded areas as they may have become hardened due to the heat.
Use plenty of cutting fluid and run the die to the shoulder.

And by the way, don't buy a cheap die, you will only make the job tougher.
 
Its a right hand thread from then factory. Be sure to get a way to use then stock locking ring deal that you bend over one of the flats on the nut. Idea is to secure the nut so it doesnt loosen when your riding and throw the chain...which is probably what originally happened to lead to the previous owners weld job.
 
If the splines are worn as bad as they look, the new sprocket won't stay tight no matter what you do.
 
Excellent idea MacGyver.👍 Another tip, do the job on a Sunday afternoon right after you get home from church.☺ Also you might try a American thread. The next size under 20mm is 7/8-14 Another concern is the shaft being so hard that the die can't cut it. However, Chuck probably has the right idea. Split the cases and replace the output shaft all together. Hopefully the other nuts and bolts on your motorcycle are not all rooted. Some home mechanics can really tear up a motorcycle. Good luck 👍
 
Put a 2-3 mm chamfer on the end of the shaft.
Find a die like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drill-Ameri...958645?hash=item2a7107bbb5:g:ZQIAAOSwPCVX3d4V and a socket to drive it.
Right hand thread is ok.

the link refares to a die nut they are used usually to clean up a damaged thread of the same diameter and pitch and not to use to cut a new thread, a stock and die is used to cut a new threads. It's very difficult to get a good thread using a die nut from scratch.
perhaps the difficult job will be finding a nut with the correct diameter and thread pitch 19mm is not a standard size in metric coarse or fine sizes.
 
the link refares to a die nut they are used usually to clean up a damaged thread of the same diameter and pitch and not to use to cut a new thread, a stock and die is used to cut a new threads. It's very difficult to get a good thread using a die nut from scratch.
perhaps the difficult job will be finding a nut with the correct diameter and thread pitch 19mm is not a standard size in metric coarse or fine sizes.

Good catch. I used that link for an example assuming there was a HSS version.
After I checked further I couldn't find one. That shaft material would simply destroy that carbon steel.

But wait..https://www.icscuttingtools.com/catalog/page_238.pdf
 
Last edited:
thanks again everyone for your input....

i'm thinking................ is there any reason why using a split pin arrangement through the nut and shaft, wont work?
..............and for good measure, weld the nut in place as well....?
 
Back
Top