Suzuki GS1000e/s/gs1100/gsx1100 project...

[steve murdoch]

I bet it is a blast to ride.
Love the wheels.

 

[bobtail84]

I bet it is a blast to ride.
Love the wheels.

Thanks Steve and it is.

 

[oldGSfan]

The brake torque arm on my GS1100 is modified, sometime in the distant past someone cut a couple inch section out just where the tire would rub and welded it back together with a patch, very clean. But I have no idea if such a mod would give you enough clearance. If you want a picture let me know.

 

[bobtail84]

The brake torque arm on my GS1100 is modified, sometime in the distant past someone cut a couple inch section out just where the tire would rub and welded it back together with a patch, very clean. But I have no idea if such a mod would give you enough clearance. If you want a picture let me know.

Hi Tom, a picture would be fantastic

 

[Guest]

Very nice Bike Jeff,
If it was mine I would paint the fairing and tail the same colour as the tank, it's a lovely build whatever you decide,

Cheers,
Rick

 

[bobtail84]

Thanks Rick, to be fair the tail and fairing are a different black and the fairing is satin.. I will get around to painting the bike and it's on the list...

 

[bobtail84]

Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

There have been a few threads around the pros and cons to the hydraulic clutch conversion for the GS1000 and I have been mulling the idea over for a number of years and for no other reason than the fact I can I have done the conversion.

Parts needed.



I have used a GSF1200 Bandit master cylinder sourced 2nd hand from eBay ?20, 1m or 3'3" of Goodridge braided stainless PTFE hose with 1 M10 90deg 3/8 banjo ad 1 straight extended neck M10 3/8 banjo ?35.95, 1 Chinese slave cylinder with rod ?17.99 and 1 clevis fork end 5mm ?2.99. The whole lot was ?76.93 or $105.

I realise that a new cable is considerably less but I was collecting the parts over time and I was not worried about the cost.

Next I offered up the slave cylinder to make sure it was lining up ok and did not foul the carbs.




Then I added the hose with the banjo fitted to get the best angle for the blead nipple and plan the route for the pipe between carbs 3 & 4.



Next the master cylinder was fitted



Then the hose was run up to the master cylinder



The hose was offered up to the 90 deg banjo on the master cylinder and marked for cutting to length, I could have left the extra on the hose but it would not be right.



Then the hose was fitted and tightened up



This is a short vid of the conversion in action after bleeding which only took 10 minutes.

https://youtu.be/USBIIe2pVsc

I was really pleased with the final fitment and the force to operate the clutch is slightly lighter compared with the OE cable, probably not a conversion to replace the cable for a big reduction in leaver force but for a because you can conversion it is worth it in my opinion.

 

[dorkburger]

Nice. Thanks for the honest assessment of ?because you can?.

I?ve been quietly watching this thread. I dig your bike and the fact that you?ve done track days with it.

 

[bobtail84]

Thanks Glen, I would rather say it how it is than miss lead folks into a conversion that was not a real benefit to the bike or person riding it.

My bike is ready to ride all year which mean road tax, MOT and insurance must be done but that means if I wish to throw my leg over the bike I can. ��

One other thing I will be 57 this week and I have booked myself a day at a wheelie school on 10 October 21. I will take the car as the temptation will be too great on the way home if you get my meaning.. I have never been any good at wheelies so I figured it would be fun to try in a controlled environment with an instructor and bikes that have a system to stop you going over the back, I will keep everyone informed about the day.

 

[steve murdoch]

Wheelie school? Excellent!
Nice to use someone else's equipment to learn.

 

[bobtail84]

Update time.

One of the biggest challenges with our bikes after the motor has been modified is making sure the air fuel ratio (AFR) is correct. One option and possibly the most popular is dyno time which no matter which country you are in is expensive so I am looking at an alternative for my bike.
I have bought an Innovate MTX-L Plus wide band AFR gauge with a Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband lambda sensor. I have also had a grown up weld a TI lambda boss into the TI exhaust.







I have tuned fuel injection engines using WB lambda sensors and tuning carbs will be fun. I can data log the sensor and the main difference is I will be riding the bike instead of sitting on a dyno, I will see how that goes.

 

[bobtail84]

One of the benefits of owning and maintaining our old bikes is you tend to know all the little noises the engine makes. On idle there has been a ticking noise that had started to get louder, not to the point it was a loud metallic noise but enough to hear it with my helmet on, raise the revs off idle and the noise went.

We all know that ticking noises are notoriously difficult to pin the location down and I thought it was a shim. The cam cover was removed, clearances checked and found to be spot on.. I started to think I had an internal problem until I went to fire the old girl up and it just spun up and rattled. I removed the stator cover and found...





I managed to get the broken ends of the bolts out and you can see the cause of the ticking noise was the loose cap heads rattling around in the starter ring., luckily there was no damage and the small amount of filings were on the magnets for the stator.



A top tip for removal of the rotor assembly, you can use the swing arm pivot bolt instead of trying to find a puller that will never fit properly. As you tighten the bolt tap the free end with a hammer and it will pop off without damage and no use of Anglo Saxon words, and yes they are safety crocs.

 

[rphillips]

Yep, you're not the first to see this problem. Maybe the 3rd most common GS problem behind the charging system and clutch... Loc-tite and a little extra torque and hope for the best.

 

[John Kat]

I noticed you fitted the "Salty-Monk" front brake upgrade.
What are the exact disks and calipers you used?
I understood SV 650 and CBR 600 but there are so many variants that I'd like to make sure I buy the right ones.
Congrats on the build!

 

[bobtail84]

I noticed you fitted the "Salty-Monk" front brake upgrade.
What are the exact disks and calipers you used?
I understood SV 650 and CBR 600 but there are so many variants that I'd like to make sure I buy the right ones.
Congrats on the build!

Hi John, I used CBR900 disks from eBay. If you look on the twinpot-brake-upgrade-on-78-skunk thread all the parts you need are listed on the 1st page.

 

[John Kat]

Hi Bob, the reason I asked is that the models mentionned on Salty's thread correspond to US model numbers.
Here in France, the Honda models go like PC31 or SC29 and SC 31 like those mentionned here:
Disques de frein flottant Honda CBR 600 1995-1998,CBR 900 RR FIREBLADE 1994-1997 | eBay​
The Kawasaki models typically were not sold in France.
The ER6 calipers look OK but who knows?
Like these?
Etriers avant KAWASAKI ER6 N 2006 - 2008 | eBay
OK I found them for a GPX 600 R
Kawasaki GPX600 R ZX600C ?trier de Frein Avant Droite F2/4 - K1 | eBay​​

 

[bobtail84]

Hi Bob, the reason I asked is that the models mentionned on Salty's thread correspond to US model numbers.
Here in France, the Honda models go like PC31 or SC29 and SC 31 like those mentionned here:
Disques de frein flottant Honda CBR 600 1995-1998,CBR 900 RR FIREBLADE 1994-1997 | eBay​
The Kawasaki models typically were not sold in France.
The ER6 calipers look OK but who knows?
Like these?
Etriers avant KAWASAKI ER6 N 2006 - 2008 | eBay
OK I found them for a GPX 600 R
Kawasaki GPX600 R ZX600C ?trier de Frein Avant Droite F2/4 - K1 | eBay​​

John, I have copied the below from salty_monks post to give you a few options for parts. I think that some of the bikes listed should be available in France if not look on the UK eBay and most ship to Europe as a general rule.

When fitting make sure to check all clearances carefully & turn the wheel by hand and listen for any scraping, feel for any interference. Be cautious on your first ride. If everything is fine the brakes will be MUCH stronger than you're used to.

Parts-
Brackets
Custom brackets. You will also need 2x 10mm x 40mm bolts, 2x flat washers, 2x lock washers, and 2x 10mm nuts for the bottom hole. Figure another $5 at your hardware store for these, but use at least a grade 8.8 (10.9 or higher preferred).
2 x M10 bolts 40-45mm in length. Stock caliper bolts can be used on caliper locations with blue loctite. These are for the lower bracket to fork leg connection.

Calipers
2 x calipers from various bikes, mainly Kawasaki models-
EX 250 Ninja 1988 to 2007 (single caliper on right side)
EX 500 Ninja 1994 to 2007 (single caliper on right side)
ZL 600 B1 Eliminator 1995 to 1996
ZR 550 B1/B2/B3 Zephyr 1990 1992 1993
ZX 600 C1-C9 Ninja 600 R 1988 to 1996
ZR 750 C1/C2/C3 1991 to 1993
ZX 750 F1/F2/F3/F4 Ninja 1987 to 1990
ZG 1000 A9-A20 Concours 1994 to 2006
ZX 1000 B1/B2/B3 Ninja ZX10 1988 to 1990

Suzuki also used this caliper on the VX800, GS500 and the GSX1100G

If buying Concours calipers, be sure they are the dual-piston ones from 94-06. The earlier 86-93 ones are single-piston and won't fit. Shop around by model on eBay, you'll find the prices vary a lot for the same thing. It's also usually cheaper to find a pair of calipers than buying them one at a time. Be sure you are getting left and right calipers and that each caliper has the bolt for the banjo fitting in it.

Pads
Your choice on these. Expect to spend anywhere from $20~40 per set. The EBC organic pads part number is FA129.

Rotors
2 x rotors, 295mm.
a) Solid GS rotor from a:
GS 550 C/N/EC/EN 77-79
GS 550 LT 80
GS 750 C/N (8 Valve) 78-79
GS 1000 C/N 78-79

b) Vented (one way, the slots will face the "wrong" direction on one side, but this is not known to be an operational problem) GS rotor from a:
GS 550 LX 81
GS 550 LZ 82
GS 550 TX 81
GS 650 GLX/GLZ/GLD 81-83 (NOT the 650G standard)
GS 750 TZ/TD (16 valve) 82-83 (NOT the 750E)

Make sure what you get is the larger (295mm) single rotor from the L/GL/TZ. The standards of this era used the smaller 276mm dual disks. Ask the seller to measure it before you buy- it will save a lot of headache when you get the wrong one.

You can use certain Honda CBR rotors, F3 or F4. On most the rotor should be re-drilled & the caliper spacer acts as the template for this (there are 2 small 6mm holes to line up & then put the 8mm holes straight through (preferably on a pillar drill).

CBR600 Rotors. F3, F4 & F4i. The 296mm dia ones. If you send me any links to ones you are looking to buy or pictures I can quickly tell you if they are the right ones.

-HONDA-CBR600-F4-US-ver-1999-2000-FS-99-00 – 78mm PCD

cbr600-600RR-F3-Front-wheel-rim-Brake-Disc-Caliper-Rotors-95-98-/

95-96-97-98-honda-cbr600-f3-cbr600f3

I know there are 63 pages on Dan's original post but grab your favourite beverage and have a skim as there is a great deal of very useful info in there.

Jeff. ​

 

[John Kat]

Thanks Jeff!
I read most of Dan's post as I read somewhere that the SV 650 calipers would fit but apparently not?
On another subject, I'm looking for a throttle slide for a GS 1135 carb.
I had found one on Ebay in the UK but it was in poor condition and returned it.
If you happen to see one please notify me asap.
John

 

[bobtail84]

Thanks Jeff!
I read most of Dan's post as I read somewhere that the SV 650 calipers would fit but apparently not?
On another subject, I'm looking for a throttle slide for a GS 1135 carb.
I had found one on Ebay in the UK but it was in poor condition and returned it.
If you happen to see one please notify me asap.
John

Send me the details of the carb, make and size then I can see what's about for you.

 

[John Kat]

Le carbs are here:
Suzuki GSX1150EF 1985 (F) (E06) CARBURETOR - buy original CARBURETOR spares online (cmsnl.com)​
Le slide itself is part # 5, PN 13500-00A10.
It looks exactly the same as the one fitted on the GSX 1100 except that it's diameter is 32 mm insteas of 29 mm
The name of the carbs is BS 36 SS.
Quite difficult to find!
The only missing part to finish my bike