Taking apart the ignition switch

[timebombprod]

Who's done it? Chasing voltage loss and the ignition switch is definitely something to be checked and cleaned, I'm not sure if all GS bikes from the late 70s- early 80s have the same ignition switch, but if they do and you've done it before, let me know what to be careful about, or if there's a tutorial, thatd be even better!

 

[Guest]

That one is pretty easy to take apart. It is the turn signal switch that you want to wrap a plastic bag around and poke a screwdriver through it as there are little springs that will go sproing into another dimension. In the ignition switch there is a spring for the start button and a tiny circuit board in a slot in there that can be pulled out carefully. There is a little copper button in there that makes contact. Clean this and put some dialectric grease in there and you should be good for a long time. You may find some little white spidy nests in there as well. Bikecliffs website might have a tutorial on this. If taking the turn signal switch apart you will want to pay particular attention to how it comes apart as it can be a little tricky to get it together again with the springs and the tiny ball bearings in there.

 

[Eli69]

I have a quirky ignition on my 78 1000. Since taking it apart looks really complicated I've gotten by for several years by occasionally squirting some PBBlaster in the key hole.

 

[timebombprod]

That one is pretty easy to take apart. It is the turn signal switch that you want to wrap a plastic bag around and poke a screwdriver through it as there are little springs that will go sproing into another dimension. In the ignition switch there is a spring for the start button and a tiny circuit board in a slot in there that can be pulled out carefully. There is a little copper button in there that makes contact. Clean this and put some dialectric grease in there and you should be good for a long time. You may find some little white spidy nests in there as well. Bikecliffs website might have a tutorial on this. If taking the turn signal switch apart you will want to pay particular attention to how it comes apart as it can be a little tricky to get it together again with the springs and the tiny ball bearings in there.

Gonna leave the urn signal switch alone so that's good, just the ignition switch will be messed with. The killswitch has been cleaned already but it seems to be the inside of things that need to be done on it, like resodering and stuff, so if I gain enough voltage back from the ignition I'm gonna leave it.

Hopefully all goes well!

 

[timebombprod]

I have a quirky ignition on my 78 1000. Since taking it apart looks really complicated I've gotten by for several years by occasionally squirting some PBBlaster in the key hole.

I wish but it's a bit too much voltage loss for that to work

 

[tom203]

I?d take a chance on finding a replacement switch on eBay rather messing any more with yours

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I successfully took my ignition (key slot/barrel, etc.) apart and cleaned it up. There's a BB/Ball bearing in there that makes the key position stop at all of the appropriate detents. It is quite a puzzle in there, and it was possible to put back together exactly 180 degrees wrong. (you'll know because the key will be wrong when inserted). I did not measure voltage to/from before and after but is was cruddy in there, and I'm sure I regained a few points of a volt.

 

[Gorminrider]

The key switch can be bad and more moving parts but it's easier to clean up once taken apart than a really bad kill switch, IMO..

The kill switch is not meant to take apart- the toggle axle is a rivet- but I found burnishing the contacts gave my bad one new life. (A "point file" is too thick) If there's a Next time though, I will drill the rivet and rebuild it, (heavy tinkering!) unless I can find a replacement...

 

[timebombprod]

I successfully took my ignition (key slot/barrel, etc.) apart and cleaned it up. There's a BB/Ball bearing in there that makes the key position stop at all of the appropriate detents. It is quite a puzzle in there, and it was possible to put back together exactly 180 degrees wrong. (you'll know because the key will be wrong when inserted). I did not measure voltage to/from before and after but is was cruddy in there, and I'm sure I regained a few points of a volt.

Hey rich what did you mean by that when its inserted wrong, I'm gonna take a video of what's happening idk wtf is happening.

 

[timebombprod]

https://youtube.com/shorts/hhVRm87qSsg?feature=share

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Hey rich what did you mean by that when its inserted wrong, I'm gonna take a video of what's happening idk wtf is happening.

IIRC, there’s a white disc type thing with cross-shaped slots in it, but the cross has one short leg. On reassembly, the “clocking” of this short leg of the cross in the white disc is important. None of this will likely make any sense until you take it apart. Take pics and/or video as you disassemble the ignition barrel and you should be fine.

Of course, all of this is assuming that your ignition barrel/key slot thing is the same as mine. I don’t know if it is or not.

 

[timebombprod]

IIRC, there’s a white disc type thing with cross-shaped slots in it, but the cross has one short leg. On reassembly, the “clocking” of this short leg of the cross in the white disc is important. None of this will likely make any sense until you take it apart. Take pics and/or video as you disassemble the ignition barrel and you should be fine.

Of course, all of this is assuming that your ignition barrel/key slot thing is the same as mine. I don’t know if it is or not.

I already disassembled and reassembled it, I posted the video aswell maybe it's fine and beforehand it was messing up?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Ian, just watched your video. Please, if you haven’t taken the ignition apart yet, DON’T. I worked before, and your key moves smoothely. Leave it alone.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Ok, what i see from your video is, I think you put it back together right. On my bike you have to have the handlebars turned all the way to left or right (full-lock) in order to be able to turn the ignition key all the way left or all the way right. Key all the way right (clockwise) is the emergency tail-light-on position. Try it.

edit: you also have to push in/down with the key in order to get the key to turn to the far left and far right positions.

 

[timebombprod]

Ok, what i see from your video is, I think you put it back together right. On my bike you have to have the handlebars turned all the way to left or right (full-lock) in order to be able to turn the ignition key all the way left or all the way right. Key all the way right (clockwise) is the emergency tail-light-on position. Try it.

edit: you also have to push in/down with the key in order to get the key to turn to the far left and far right positions.

Great! Glad it works correctly, I wasnt sure if it was supposed to still have the lights on when turned farthest to the right.


Okay that's what I lost is the rear light but I'll check it right now to see if it works again, I had a mishap with the brake light switch this morning but I was able to fix it.....6 parts and no directions to put back together made for an hour long assembly

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

It?s in your owners manual.

 

[timebombprod]

Update, everything works!

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Everything?, or just the ignition switch? Either way, it’s a win. Did you pick up any voltage by cleaning it?

 

[bwringer]

Congratulations!


I've taken ignition switches apart for cleaning, and they're always horribly filthy inside. Sometimes there's significant wear to deal with as well if the bike has a lot of miles or has been ridden a lot with a heavy key chain. Sometimes you can tweak the contacts a bit so that they make better contact.

It's a puzzle, but do-able with care, patience, good lighting, and a pan or tray for disassembly.

If replacement is required, you can often avoid the need to carry two keys by removing the gas cap and helmet lock cylinders and filing or rearranging the wafers so they'll work with the new key. The ignition switch uses (IIRC) five wafers, while the other locks only use three.

 

[timebombprod]

Everything?, or just the ignition switch? Either way, it’s a win. Did you pick up any voltage by cleaning it?

Unfortunately no voltage was gained... I know I'm losing atleast a volt in the killswitch, but I think it's where the killswitch meets the coilpack wires in the harness being that's the only thing I didnt touch.