M
Mark Harrop
Guest
Anybody running these? They seem like good insurance on a race motor, but what about a street motor?
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RacingJake
Forum Sage
They do work great, but the only problem is if you drop the little buggers in the case, then it's coat hanger time. Been there and done that. Got to be careful and double check them as you push the block down over the pistons.
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Anonymous
Guest
Just a thought, Jake, but couldn't you use a dab of grease to hold them in place while the block goes in?
Mark
Mark
RacingJake
Forum Sage
That could work too.
When I was compressing the rings with my fingers to install the the block they would slide outwards.
But keep a coat hanger around just incase.
When I was compressing the rings with my fingers to install the the block they would slide outwards.
But keep a coat hanger around just incase.
A
Anonymous
Guest
teflon buttons used more for ease of maintenance than anything. They actually increase the weight of the reciprocating assy.
R
Richie
Guest
i use the circlips in all of my race motors...there a pain to get out but like no bars said the buttons are heavier....richie
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Paul
Guest
I use the teflon buttons - ever seen a circlip come out?
RacingJake
Forum Sage
My wrist pins on MTC 82mm piston are shorter and lighter than the wrist pin on my wiseco 75mm pistons. But the MTC pistons are much heavier so I guess it does'nt matter much in my case.
B
BadBillyB
Guest
Teflon buttons are way safer than any circlip or spirolox.......And yes, I have seen the damage from a circlip that came out. It dug a ditch in the cylinder wall. Lesson learned...Billy
A
Anonymous
Guest
Paul said:
When I bought my 81 GS1000G it was running an internal problem I didn't know about. A previous repairer had installed a piston on a wrist pin with no tolerance between the conrod and the pin. The resulting heat it generated made the wrist pin so hot that it started to melt the alloy piston at the ends of the pin. The metal between the wrist pin hole and the lower ring just melted out. One one side the metal slumped around the circlip until it was almost fully enclosed with metal. On the other end the metal fell away and released the circlip. The loose clip damaged one side of the cylinder when it got caught between piston and wall, then snapped off and travelled to the other end of the pin and did the same on the other side. The flapping oil control rings did their own bit of damage down the sides of the cylinder as well.
Meanwhile, the piston had no wrist action as the conrod cycled through its normal angle and the piston skirt wore away at the cylinder wall front and back until there was an inch wide scour about 2 or 3 mm deep. It's probably about time I got some pics of the damage inside the cylinder. The piston I took to my bike shop for him to sit on the counter as a conversation piece, but an energetic assistant once cleaned it up and through it out.
Kim
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Richie
Guest
ive seen stock motors with circlips that came out...but with the ross pistons and JE i know that with the kit the cir clips are alot thicker and stronger than the stock style, there harder to get in and out, i see what your saying about circlips doing damage to the cylinder walls if they come out but until it happens to me i like cir clips 7.41@1811/4 mile / 4.65@156 1/8 mile no problems....thanks richie
