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Total loss ignition

Was just trying to minimize any wiring,Not so much concerned about weight, Just a theory,is there a possible H.P. gain with the stator not being energized and placing some amount of draw,or resistance on the motor,I know some car guys have an alternator by-pass switch that turns it off and on.. Wonder if there is any info on GS motors that might have been dynoed with and without a charging system in relation to H.P.
 
Was just trying to minimize any wiring,Not so much concerned about weight, Just a theory,is there a possible H.P. gain with the stator not being energized and placing some amount of draw,or resistance on the motor,I know some car guys have an alternator by-pass switch that turns it off and on.. Wonder if there is any info on GS motors that might have been dynoed with and without a charging system in relation to H.P.

Never seen any data on that. But remember that Yoshimura thought it was worthwhile to drive the alternator off the final drive sprocket in races where they had to use a charging system....
The lighter crank is the point here.
 
Your not really saving all that much wiring by just removing the charging system. I?d think it?d pay off in the end to just keep it if your not removing the rotor.
It?s nice to be able to just hit the start button if you stall.
 
The stator and rotor weigh well over a pound. Std GS1100 rotor is 5.2 lbs and a Kat rotor weighs 4.65. It's also weight off of the crankshaft that the motor does not have to turn. Rev's quicker? Its why Kat rotor's are lighter. On a fully charged battery with a total loss system (stator and rotor still installed but dead/burnt out) I did a track day of aprox 60 minutes and could still electric start the bike after 60 minutes of riding with no lights.
I've considered going total loss on my track bike, and like Steve's point not much weight loss for starting hassle BS.
We sometimes cut motors at starting grid because of delays. It would be a real hassle to have to kill it, then start it again on the grid using an external starting devise.
I see MotoGP riders restarting their bikes after a minor crash, so they can get back in the race. They're not worried about the weight of a starter.
PS: 60 minutes total running time for 1 track day? That's only 3 on track sessions per track day.
 
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Thanks for all the info and opinions...Appreciated. As of now there is a 100$ basket case engine and a free ATV frame. Low if no budget...Just tossing ideas... Thanks again..
 
I've considered going total loss on my track bike, and like Steve's point not much weight loss for starting hassle BS.
We sometimes cut motors at starting grid because of delays. It would be a real hassle to have to kill it, then start it again on the grid using an external starting devise.
I see MotoGP riders restarting their bikes after a minor crash, so they can get back in the race. They're not worried about the weight of a starter.
PS: 60 minutes total running time for 1 track day? That's only 3 on track sessions per track day.

As I've pointed out earlier in the thread, it's possible to still use a starter with the majority of the rotor mass detatched. Splitting the hub out of the rotor is easy. Just drill out the rivets.
Our high compression, big cam, big bore big carbs GS1000 would restart hot using the small on-board battery.

I believe MotoGP bikes are now required to self- start - and the minimum weights reflect that.

I had a speedway car client who was sensitive enough to pick the difference in feel between having the starter clutch fitted to the crank and it left off.
That was on a GSXR750 and the starter clutch weighs about 1kg on them.
 
I believe MotoGP bikes are now required to self- start - and the minimum weights reflect that.

Not true, all of the 3 moto GP classes still rely on external starters. None of them have, or require an "onboard" starting facility.
 
I was wanting to remove the charging system off of an engine.Total loss Ign. I know I will have to power the coils and the dyna S Ignition.I was planing on removing the stator itself and the regulator.Leave the flywheel and starter drive..Battery power only..Any faults with it... All and any advice would be appreciated.I thinking about installing a 82 GS 1100 in an ATV. Dirt Drags ..

We run a Turbo funny drag bike.
The Orient Express Kawasaki Z900 with total loss ign.
There's no problem with what you want to do but you won't gain anything with just the removal of the windings and regulator.
The weight loss will barely be better than not wearing any underwear and will just cause more hassle having to remote charge between runs.
If you were going to do it then loosing the whole rotor etc is the way to go as that will gain a few HP at the crank.
Just be sure to keep the battery fully charged otherwise you will reduce max power.
We lose 100 hp from a 250 hp motor after the the first couple of quarters if the battery isn't changed or topped up between runs.
 
Here is a interesting charging system set up... I'm not sure what's under the cover.
 

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