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Trans fluid in forks?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ericzx7
  • Start date Start date
My wife is currently learning on the 700. Great learner and still a blast for me. ;-)
Same here! I forget how much fun it is if I havn't ridden it for a while. Then I ride it , and it all comes back.
 
Tellya what, I've got a buddy who is an ATS, Ford in particular. I'll pose the viscosity query to him, see if he can give an answer... Most likely, different brands are different viscosity.

Might also find the answer at AMSOIL.COM
 
Ditto on the trans fluid being 7wt. Way too thin for me, I am using 20wt currently and I am liking it:-D
 
Ditto on the trans fluid being 7wt. Way too thin for me, I am using 20wt currently and I am liking it:-D
Same line of thought, different direction ...
I found 15w to be too stiff for me, so I am running 10w. Isn't it nice to be able to tune? 8-[


.
 
Ditto on the trans fluid being 7wt. Way too thin for me, I am using 20wt currently and I am liking it:-D

Same line of thought, different direction ...
I found 15w to be too stiff for me, so I am running 10w. Isn't it nice to be able to tune? 8-[


.

I'd probably want in the 15w area, so I'd mix with 20w motor oil.

I like my suspention to be fairly stiff. I guess I will experiment a little, and see how it works out. Its not like I cant change it up, if I don't like it. Great to have all of this input and advice though. Love it!
 
The oil doesn't really add to the stiffness of the forks much, if your forks won't compress, your spring rate is too high or you are running too much air. The oil is more for the rebound effect, I find that my forks were too bouncy with the thin oil, now with the thicker oil, the ride has smoothed out and it won't fade in the corners when the road is not smooth. If you really want to mix engine oil and atf, to get a wt between 10 and 15, then use a Hydralic/transmission fluid, most agricultural transfluids are about a 12wt, also they won't foam like an engine oil will. You really don't want to be flinging it through the corners and then find that you have lost damping on the forks, it increases the pucker factor a lot.
 
Summary: If you're really poor or can't get the proper oil, ATF will work fine.

If not, it's silly to do so.
 
I have heard of people putting in ATF in to clean out the forks, it loosens up the old crud that is stuck down in the bottom.
 
Factory manual for the two valve 550 bikes calls for 50-50 mix of 10W-30 motor oil and ATF. I used 15W fork oil instead.
 
Factory manual for the two valve 550 bikes calls for 50-50 mix of 10W-30 motor oil and ATF. I used 15W fork oil instead.


I remember reading somewhere that mixing ATF and 30W 50/50 does not produce something that is 15W but more like 11-12W, but that's picking nits. Something I do well, especially now that I've quite smoking!
 
I used ATF to flush mine as it's thin... I use 15w with progressive springs. Works well for me.

Dan :)
 
I'm sure ATF would work- but why?

That pretty much sums it up. Fork oil is formulated for, big surprise, FORKS. ATF is not. Will it work? Of course. Is it worth it to save $3 on your pride and joy? Not to me. Don't buy that fancy coffee on your way to work tomorrow morning. There, you have just saved enough to afford real fork oil...:-D

BTW, the best thing to flush your forks with is kerosene. When you pull them off to replace bushings (everyone does replace their bushings, don't they? They do wear, after all) and seals, empty the oil and fill part way with kerosene and hand stroke them full length for a minute. Dump out the now disgusting and filthy kerosene. Fill with fresh kerosene and repeat 2-3 times. Presto! Clean forks.

Mark
 
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