valve adjust not working :(

[timebombprod]

so i have my cam lobe from my intake positioned so its facing the spark plug hole and i put the ziptie tool in at about 10 o clock in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over and either ill get stuck, or itll twist my ziptie, what am i doing wrong? do i need more stuff to show for somebody to know what im doing wrong?

ive pushed the ziptie all the way in and ive let it sit at the top, and then halfway, so i dont know where im positioning it wrong.

 

[salty_monk]

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/motion-pro-valve-shim-tool-suzuki-yamaha

https://www.revzilla.com/product/mo...2ld7FtHuZf_LgEBT7pWE9V3KW3OP7OVYaAsdfEALw_wcB

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

The links salty_monk gave you are for the "correct" tool to do the job. Many here use the "zip-tie method, instead, and swear by it. I'm sure there's a trick to it. I know there's lots of threads on it in the archives. Sorry I don't know what the trick is. I have a 16 valve engine with the "easy" adjustable tappets, not the shim-in-bucket type as in the 8 valve engines like yours.

 

[timebombprod]

yeah i think the valve tool will have to be the way to go

 

[roeme]

You should be able to see the valve before you put in the zip tie. It will get pinched quite a bit, yes, but should hold up fine.

IIRC, I didn't even fold mine, just bent and shimmied it between valve and valve seat by feel.

Here's a vid that somebody did a few years ago:

 

[Brendan W]

The valve has to be open before you introduce the zip tie.
Lobe pointing down.
Then slide the bent part into the gap.
Now rotate the cam away from the shim and the valve stays down enough to get the shim out.
I'm almost certain that you can just see the edge of the fully open valve head through the plug hole on the outer cylinders.

 

[tom203]

Get a decent zip tie...1/4 inch across,fiddle with it till you get a nice bend. Then do as Brendan said. I recently did my clearances with the same zip tie that I have used multiple times. This method is easier and safer than the tool

 

[Steve]

Put some tape or shrink-wrap just above that 45? bend to hold it together, then slide it under the valve.

Not sure about the "10 o'clock" position, it depends on which valve you are trying to do. When you push the valve open with the cam lobe, you can see the edge of the valve. It is rather easy to see where to point the end of the zip-tie. As you slide the zip-tie in, you should feel a bit of resistance. Turn the crank one full turn so the cam lobe is pointing away from the valve. You should not be able to pull the zip-tie out. Now you can rotate the bucket to find the notch that allows you to pull the shim out.

.

 

[Rijko]

yeah i think the valve tool will have to be the way to go

I like that method best :encouragement:

 

[cowboyup3371]

I used to always use the tool but I now swear by the zip tie just because of how often the tool will slip off.

Oh, and Steve and I did that video Roeme linked to again

 

[roeme]

I used to always use the tool but I now swear by the zip tie just because of how often the tool will slip off.

Oh, and Steve and I did that video Roeme linked to again

Hah, that confirms my suspicion that the vid has been done by forum members!

 

[Steve]

We just do what works for us. :encouragement:

.

 

[Wingsconsin]

I have observed the zip tie method as done by Steve --

I see how it's done ; and being taught by the Whisperer himself should be enough...

BUT -- I prefer the tool method - it works for me - and it slips off - and it's a PIA --

But it is the way I do it....

 

[Steve]

BUT -- I prefer the tool method - it works for me - and it slips off - and it's a PIA --

I used to use the tool method, but it was on my Kawasaki, where it worked a LOT better.

However, in spite of "working better", it still slipped off while a shim was not quite fully-seated in the bucket.

After several minutes of fishing with a magnet and re-assembling the pieces, I was confident enough that I had pretty much everything that might cause major damage, so I continued with the adjustment.

For all of you who are able to successfully use "the tool", :clap: :clap: :clap: :encouragement:

I still prefer the positive valve retraction of the zip-tie and will continue to use it.

.

 

[ddaniels]

I have the tool and have used it....and hate it. PIA as 'Sconsin said. Zip tie is much easier.

 

[Grimly]

I have the tool and have used it....and hate it. PIA as 'Sconsin said. Zip tie is much easier.

Ditto. I even bought the proper tool, after discovering they had come down a lot in price (they used to be only available from some specialist sources at outrageous prices) but there's a severe design flaw in it, which makes the zip-tie method much more reliable and simply easier.

 

[jsandidge]

I'll have to try the zip tie method next time. The tool really is a pita.

 

[Rijko]

I have tried 2 non-OEM tools because of the outrageous prices of
the OEM ones and found them not hardened enough.
They wore/damaged quickly and then slipped off, PIA indeed.

Found a OEM 2nd hand one and never had that issue again.
Love the original tool.

 

[Steve]

I'll have to try the zip tie method next time. The tool really is a pita.

I was in your neck of the woods last weekend, I could have shown you how to do it.

.

 

[Wingsconsin]

Just sayin' ....

Just sayin' ....

I am due for another valve shim check soonish --
I will make an effort to try the Zip tie thing (again) -
IF it works for me - I will state as such publicly -- however I am getting pretty good at making that stupid tool work too...