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valve adjustments

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS Farmer
  • Start date Start date
G

GS Farmer

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Bought a 81 GS1000G last summer with 30k on it. Then by chance bought a 80 L model that was low milage [8700 miles]. As the project started I decided to swap engines as the G had some oil leaks, crudy looking cases and 22,000 more miles. As I began to really look the motor over on the L, I now believe that the valve cover has never been off, ie the valves have never been adjusted. Then I ran in to an old suzuki motorcycle mechanic,[bought an 80 G model from him 20 years ago] and ask if he would be worried about the lack of vavle adjustment at aprox. 9000 miles. His advice was leave it alone untill it gets around 20k or so. I've owned three previous GS bikes in the late 70s early 80s, and always ran valves every 5 to 7 k. Now I'm a little confused as to how to proceed. Any imput would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Check those valves! Why not? All you need is a set of feeler gauges and you'll know for sure. It's one of the most basic and important bits of maintenance, and from what I hear, 9000 miles is definitely enough to warrant a valve check-up.
 
For the shim valves, the manual calls for a valve check every 4,000 miles, which is what I do. I usually find one or two shims that need to be changed every other valve check.

Valve clearance checks are strictly NOT optional.

On these engines (8 valve GS models with shim valve adjustments), the clearances tend to tighten over time, which can lead to crappy running and burned valves. They do not make noise or give any other indication (other than running hot and running like poop) when the clearances are out of spec.

Some people mistakenly believe that you can wait until you hear clattering, but that's only true on engines where clearances tend to increase over time.

A silicone RealGasket makes this much easier and less expensive -- for about $35, you can get reusable silicone valve cover and breather gaskets that will last a lifetime, don't leak, and will never require scraping.
http://realgaskets.com
You do have to be VERY careful that you don't over-tighten the valve cover bolts with a RealGasket. The spec is 15 inch-pounds, which is 1.25 foot-pound.

Z1 Enterprises has very reasonable prices on the valve shim tool and shims:
http://z1enterprises.com

Cycle Recycle II also sells the shim tool and shims cheap:
http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/

You can get a metric feeler gauge set for about $5 in any auto parts store. Don't fart around with a gauge marked in inches -- that way lies only madness and despair. You can really screw things up if you confuse .05mm with .005 inch. The metric gauge set will not include a .03mm blade, but you don't need it anyway.

For those times when you find a shim with no markings, you'll also want to pick up a precision caliper or micrometer that reads directly in mm. Again, farting around with inch conversions is a good way to damage your machine and/or yourself. You can get a very nice one for about $15-$20 at Harbor Freight or your favorite purveyor of cheapo Chinese tools.

Here's the one I've had for a few years, and it's actually a nice piece of equipment that works quite well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257

Checking and adjusting the valves is dead easy -- just follow the procedure in the Haynes or Clymer (or Suzuki) manual. Once you get into it and see how things move and work together, you'll be fine.

Good source for repair manuals:
http://repairmanual.com
 
My book says every 4,000 miles for my '79, yours shouldn't be much different.

Proper valve adjustment is critical. As your valves wear the valve clearances get SMALLER. This places greater strain on your valve train, and leads eventually to incomplete valve closure, loss of compression and burned valves. Improper valve clearances also makes its hard to synchronize your carbs.

Get 'r done.
 
A new (low-mile) engine is where they seem to change the most. As the valves get pushed into their seats a few million times (at over 2,000 times per mile, it doesn't take long*), they compress the seats just a bit, reducing valve clearance. Without sufficient clearance, the valves will spend less time on the seats for heat transfer, and will eventually destroy themselves.

Regardless of what the book says, I have always tried to check at about 1,000 miles, 5,000 miles, 10,000 miles, then every 10,000 after that. The clearance specified on our bikes is so small to start with, I would not go much farther than that, and I tend to set them on the looser side of specs.

Another reason to check them NOW is for peace of mind.
You have no idea how they are set, and it's something you CAN control, so why not? 8-[


.
 
I'd do it!

I'd do it!

When I adjusted my valves at about 20,000 miles, I was convinced it had never been done before. All of them were out of spec and a couple of them were getting really tight.

This is purely anecdotal and your bike may be fine....but, if it were me, I'd go ahead and do it. It's not hard and you can get great advice here on the forum if you need it.:-D
 
Use the manufacturers method not the Clymer one. They are different. Nessim posted the mfg one a while back. Search for posts I started & you should find it.

Dan :)
 
THE 2 valve motor I would not worry about it too much. Since you do not have service history You should check them. They may not even need adjustment. My 850 was checked 24K when I got it had ONE valve at minimum clearance, left it alone. rechecked at 40K ended up replacing two shims. The 4 valve motors are a different breed need more often valve adjustments
 
Steve said:
A new (low-mile) engine is where they seem to change the most. As the valves get pushed into their seats a few million times (at over 2,000 times per mile, it doesn't take long*), they compress the seats just a bit, reducing valve clearance. Without sufficient clearance, the valves will spend less time on the seats for heat transfer, and will eventually destroy themselves.

Regardless of what the book says, I have always tried to check at about 1,000 miles, 5,000 miles, 10,000 miles, then every 10,000 after that. The clearance specified on our bikes is so small to start with, I would not go much farther than that, and I tend to set them on the looser side of specs.

Another reason to check them NOW is for peace of mind.
You have no idea how they are set, and it's something you CAN control, so why not? 8-[


.
Click to expand...

When you say looser,you mean since the clearance/gap is supposed to be .03 to .08 you tend to go to .08 so you have more clearance to wear down to and hopefully take longer to get down to?
 
ron bayless said:
When you say looser,you mean since the clearance/gap is supposed to be .03 to .08 you tend to go to .08 so you have more clearance to wear down to and hopefully take longer to get down to?
Click to expand...

Yes, shoot for the higher end of the range to allow for wear room.
 
Mr. Cheese :),
I see you have an L model. I just bought an '83 GS1100L that I'm told needs an ignition control unit (?) and a few other minor things. It hasn't been licensed since '95 and has just 11K miles. It cleaned up real nice. I gave $300 for it. I'm an aircraft mechanic, but haven't worked on bikes. Did I get taken or is this a good deal (assuming I get it running without too much $$) Is the L series a good line in your opinion? I haven't even looked to see if this is an 8, 16, 92, etc. valve motor or whether it has shims or not. Any sage advise is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Planebuilder
 
For god's sake, buy the correct tool. It is not worth farting around without it!

Painful words of experience here.
 
planebuilder said:
Mr. Cheese :),
I see you have an L model. I just bought an '83 GS1100L that I'm told needs an ignition control unit (?) and a few other minor things. It hasn't been licensed since '95 and has just 11K miles. It cleaned up real nice. I gave $300 for it. I'm an aircraft mechanic, but haven't worked on bikes. Did I get taken or is this a good deal (assuming I get it running without too much $$) Is the L series a good line in your opinion? I haven't even looked to see if this is an 8, 16, 92, etc. valve motor or whether it has shims or not. Any sage advise is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Planebuilder
Click to expand...

I own an 80 L gs 1000.here the guys hate the L model looksand have run it down for that reason.They tend to like sport tourers loook.But mechanically the L models are the same as their conterparts of the same year.I think but somone here would have to confirm all the 1100 motors are 16 valve and do not have shims.Some of the potential parts needing replaced like the ignition unit can be a few hundred dollars.But,the bikes lower ends are what make these a good deal if you are mechanically inclined.The lower ends are roller bearings around the crank instead of plain main bearings.They are overbuilt on purpose.You can build one of them to be a 300 horsepower drag bike without having to buildup the lower end.That is a direct quote from Motorcyclist magazine april 2007.Fuel petcocks,stators,front head bolt oil leaks are the common problems and they all will have one or all of them at some point.And it is not because it is an L model.L just means driveshaft and cruiser looks with the ugly seat and pullback handlebars.Ron B.(I personally am a cruiser type guy and would only own an L model myself.)
 
I like mine!!

I like mine!!

planebuilder said:
Mr. Cheese :),
I see you have an L model. I just bought an '83 GS1100L that I'm told needs an ignition control unit (?) and a few other minor things. It hasn't been licensed since '95 and has just 11K miles. It cleaned up real nice. I gave $300 for it. I'm an aircraft mechanic, but haven't worked on bikes. Did I get taken or is this a good deal (assuming I get it running without too much $$) Is the L series a good line in your opinion? I haven't even looked to see if this is an 8, 16, 92, etc. valve motor or whether it has shims or not. Any sage advise is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Planebuilder
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. Planebuilder,

Without the benefit of seeing your bike, it sounds to me like you got a fantastic deal!! I'm fairly certain you'll have no shims to deal with and I'm willing to bet you'll find working on it fun and easy. As an aircraft mechanic, you're used to "doing it right the first time" and that sort of attitude will keep your bike in great shape.

A great number of new parts are still available for the '83 models. In addition, E-bay is a 'Godsend' because it's easy to find parts and the prices are usually quite reasonable. Lastly, you asked about "L" models. I absolutely love mine. I find it to be the most comfortable bike I've owned (and I've had some really nice ones) and I guess it just suits my personality. I also think the "L" models are very nice looking but, of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I think they're somewhat more rare but that's only a guess.

Let us know how your project progresses and I can assure you, any problems or questions you may have can be worked out here on the forum. It seems like so many of us have had the same issues!8-[ Good luck!:-D
 
Wow! What a cool forum! I found this forum sort of by accident after buying this bike. Driving back from Sunman Indiana last Sunday with a filthy dirty motorcycle on my trailer that doesn't run had me hoping someone in a passing car would toot the horn and ask if I wanted to sell the bike...I was scared that I was venturing all alone into a brand new and uncharted world.

Thanks, guys for all the responses. Your welcome is greatly appreciated.
 
As I think back on the previous bikes, it seemed like once you got up in the 15 to20k miles range, I seldom change a shim, kinda like vavles settled in and did'nt need quite as much attention. My concern was that this motor maybe had'nt ever been attended to. Will run them the first chance I get. Thanks for all the imput!!
 
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