Valve clearance GS550 '78

[dantodd]

I'm not quite sure what you mean with "I got one aspect backwards"?

I'll try to put some force on the tubes and get them out.

The valve clearance tend to be reduced over time as the seat and valve wear allowing the valve to retreat further into the seat. The valve goes further up and the top of the stem gets closer to the cam lobe.

As for the exhaust, be sure to remove all the mounting brackets on the whole exhaust system so they aren't hanging up your attempts to remove the headers from the exhaust ports.

 

[11csive]

The valve clearance tend to be reduced over time as the seat and valve wear allowing the valve to retreat further into the seat. The valve goes further up and the top of the stem gets closer to the cam lobe.

As for the exhaust, be sure to remove all the mounting brackets on the whole exhaust system so they aren't hanging up your attempts to remove the headers from the exhaust ports.

Yeah I'm aware of that, thought you meant that I misunderstood something, or did something wrong

I did remove all the brackets, still didn't move. But no worries, I didn't put any time into it, last thing I did that day.

 

[Brendan W]

Have you measured the thickness of the shims ?
People have been known to grind them down rather than get thinner ones.
Generally they make a mess of it.

 

[11csive]

Have you measured the thickness of the shims ?
People have been known to grind them down rather than get thinner ones.
Generally they make a mess of it.

That's actually a very good idea. I wouldn't be surprised if someone in the past needed thinner shims and then just decided to grind them down. I'll pull the shims out and put my micrometer screw on it.

Thank you

 

[11csive]

A quick update, just to let you know I'm still working on it. And also I'm looking for some advise.

I've been struggling with the exhaust all weekend. As in ALL weekend

So, it's some aftermarket 4 to 1 exhaust there's sitting on it at the moment. Thing is, the pipes are stuck in the engine head. Really really stuck.

I've tried all sorts of things. Lubricating spray, heat, freeze spray. Putting a piece of wood in between the pipes and the frame rocking it back and forth (gently). Also moved the muffler up and down to try and loosen it up a little bit.

Also came up with this (I thought I was awfully smart, but it didn't work either )

I put in the two bolts first, turned them all the way in. Then I placed the plate next to the bolts aaand then put a bracket around the pipe. That way I could unscrew the bolts, which made them apply pressure to the pipe. Didn't work either.

I ended up cutting the pipes (had to change the exhaust system anyway, it's very rusty underneath) to be able to work with them one by one, and turn them around individually. I managed to get one of them out by turning it 90 degrees, putting another steel tube into it, applying some pressure to make sure i didn't just bent the exhaust pipe, and then brute forced it out with a hammer. (I wasn't happy with the solution either, but it really ended up seeming to me like the only option)

Looked like this when I finally got it out.

No gasket or anything on the pipes, nor inside the head, which worried me a little bit. Shouldn't there be an exhaust gasket inside the head? Which also would have made sure that the pipes wouldn't be able to get stuck this much?

Any ideas on this? I'm running short. To cut the pipes were my "last thing to go for" and that didn't even do it. Also had a pipe wrench on them after I cut them, didn't help either. Heeeeeelp

 

[Nessism]

Well, you got one off. Only three to go!

Not sure what to suggest other than keep going...

 

[tkent02]

The gasket sits on a little ledge up in there. It's hard to see but it should be in there. Might want to use a stud and a nut to push the others off, it would be a shame to screw up the threads in there.

 

[11csive]

Well, you got one off. Only three to go!

Not sure what to suggest other than keep going...

Haha no magic tricks?

I will, I'm just worried about damaging the head. Don't know if I have to worry that much? I mean, I used a 3.5lb hammer to get that first one off. I didn't feel all comfortable doing so

The gasket sits on a little ledge up in there. It's hard to see but it should be in there. Might want to use a stud and a nut to push the others off, it would be a shame to screw up the threads in there.

Ok, might have missed it then. That's actually a rather good idea, I was kinda worried about the threads in the head. It didn't work though, so I'm not sure if it'll do any difference, but at least I'll be able to force it quite a bit, without worrying about damaging the threads.

Thank you for the quick respons.

 

[11csive]

Had some time to work on the bike again today. These exhaust pipes are not getting off. I'm running out of ideas. Any advice on this what so ever?

After getting frustrated about not being able to get out the pipes, I decided to measure the shims with my micrometer screw. All 8 of them are on point. So nothing wrong with the sizes written on them

Mostly looking for a clever idea for those exhaust pipes though, anyone?

 

[Nessism]

I'd cut off the pipes but leave several inches sticking out of the port. Then drill through the sides of the pipe and attach a bolt & nut. The idea being to throw a cable or chain around the bolt and then use a slide hammer to pull the pipe out of the head.

 

[2BRacing]

Wow! Those half-moon collars are really rusted onto the pipes!

Make up an effective home-made penetrating oil by mixing equal proportions of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, and spraying the mixture onto the exhaust/cylinder head area every day for a few days.

Good luck!

 

[11csive]

I'd cut off the pipes but leave several inches sticking out of the port. Then drill through the sides of the pipe and attach a bolt & nut. The idea being to throw a cable or chain around the bolt and then use a slide hammer to pull the pipe out of the head.

Thank you for the answer. Guess I'll have to invest in a new tool to get a damn exhaust off then?

I've actually already tried drilling a hole in the pipe, to attach this tool. Not exactly the one on the picture, but one like it. I have no idea about what it is called in English, in Danish it is called a "gulvjern" which translates directly into "floor iron" - a tool made to collect wooden floor. It allows you to put the one end onto something, and then use a hammer on the other end.
https://www.carl-ras.dk/gfx/imager/catalog/37320745.jpg?s=product_node

Wow! Those half-moon collars are really rusted onto the pipes!

Make up an effective home-made penetrating oil by mixing equal proportions of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, and spraying the mixture onto the exhaust/cylinder head area every day for a few days.

Good luck!

Thank you for the recipe. Is that gonna be more effective than any other penetrating rust remover/lubricating spray? If so, I'll definitely give it a try, but I've already had it soaked in a lot of stuff like this for several days I'm getting frustrated with this, so I'll probably try yours anyway

thank you

 

[JTGS850GL]

Worse come to worst you might use a Dremal cutting wheel or hack saw blade and slice a slit into the pipe. Then collapse it into the middle and pull it out. Just be careful on how deep you cut the pipe. If you cut a little into the side of the head it doesn't matter but try to be careful around the seat.

 

[11csive]

Worse come to worst you might use a Dremal cutting wheel or hack saw blade and slice a slit into the pipe. Then collapse it into the middle and pull it out. Just be careful on how deep you cut the pipe. If you cut a little into the side of the head it doesn't matter but try to be careful around the seat.

Yeah I thought about that as the absolute last thing to do. I was just concerned about getting all sorts of things into the cylinder by doing so. Wouldn't it be necessary to pull the engine apart and clean it up after doing so?

Thanks a lot for your time and help

 

[Nessism]

Yeah I thought about that as the absolute last thing to do. I was just concerned about getting all sorts of things into the cylinder by doing so. Wouldn't it be necessary to pull the engine apart and clean it up after doing so?

Thanks a lot for your time and help

Not if you stuffed some tight fitting rags into the exhaust port.

 

[11csive]

Not if you stuffed some tight fitting rags into the exhaust port.

Well that's what I'm gonna do then. I messed up the exhaust anyway, might as well not use anymore time on this, so that I can get on with all the other things that needs to be fixed. (Still need to check the valve, that's why I was onto the exhaust at the first time. Also got a set of o-rings ready for a carb rebuild. Really looking forward to getting started with this, and all the other things to get the bike running nice and steadily)

 

[11csive]

Hi guys.

Just a quick update to let you know that I haven't forgotten you, or even worse the bike
I've had a couple of crazy busy weeks, with a lot of work and what not. But today I was back at it, and finally got the exhaust off. (yay, of all the things I imagined I was gonna spend a lot of time with, this wasn't it. But anyway, now it's done)

I had a look at the exhaust ports. As far as I can tell, it doesn't look like there's anything in there preventing the valve from closing. However, the valve in ex. 2 is soaked, unlike the 3 others.

Ex. 2.

Ex. 1 as comparison. (3 and 4 looks like this too)

Sorry for the bad pics, hard to get a good snap in there

Next step is to remove the cams and check under the bucket to see what's going on there, as Nessism suggested.

Thanks for sticking with me, hopefully I'll find a solution to this soon.

 

[2BRacing]

Just an out-of-the-box thought here, but maybe that number 2 valve cannot close all the way because of excessive carbon build-up around the stem, preventing it from going just that little bit further into the bottom of the valve guide?

I would try scratching the carbon from the valve stem with a piece of hard wood sharpened to look like a chisel point, or something similar. Even careful use of a metal chisel should not damage the valve stem. While your wife is not around, use the vacuum cleaner to suck out the loose bits of carbon.

Just something to try before you go stripping the head.

 

[11csive]

Just an out-of-the-box thought here, but maybe that number 2 valve cannot close all the way because of excessive carbon build-up around the stem, preventing it from going just that little bit further into the bottom of the valve guide?

I would try scratching the carbon from the valve stem with a piece of hard wood sharpened to look like a chisel point, or something similar. Even careful use of a metal chisel should not damage the valve stem. While your wife is not around, use the vacuum cleaner to suck out the loose bits of carbon.

Just something to try before you go stripping the head.

Definitely worth a try. Any good suggestions as to why there's that much buildup in ex. 2 compared to the other 3?
I'll sharpen a piece of wood to look like a chisel or wedge or something like that, and give it a try.

Thank you.

 

[TxGSrider]

My work computer doesn't have the greatest resolution, but is it possible that the one exhaust port just looks worse because its wet (maybe from all that stuff you've been spraying to get the pips loose)?

Ive never tried it on a motorcycle, but on the old cars you could clean them valves pretty quick by warming up the motor then running the motor up to a decent speed and spraying a little water in the carburetor. It doesn't take much to clean most of that carbon off the valve and piston tops.