Valve shimming tool selection

[GS650LCM]

I'm closing in on firing my bike up for the first time since I bought it. One of the next steps is to correct some loose shimming at the valves. Toward that end, I'm looking on ebay for the tool to compress the spring and free up the shim. I've found one (Motion Pro 08-0017) that lists that it fits about everything except the 650. So, will a tool that works for 550's and 750's actually also work on an '83 GS650GLD? It's only $14.99 and free shipping, but I'd rather not waste money on a tool I can't use. Thanks in advance for any/all input - Chris

 

[1978GS750E]

Why not just use the "zip-tie" method. I do all of mine that way. It's really easy once you get the hang of it. And then spend the $14.99 on something that you will use, like gas!

 

[GS650LCM]

Umm,... "zip-tie" method? I'm getting a picture in my head of how this might work, but please enlighten me!

 

[Steve]

Valve Adjustment Tutorial

Zip Tie Supplement

And feel free to take advantage of the offer in my signature.

.

 

[tom203]

Another vote for the ziptie method.....I bought the tool,then fought the tool before deciding to use the zipties. Note the tutorial in Steve's post....it's important to have cam lobes facing a certain way as adjacent lobes interact with measurement.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Quick question - what do you mean by loose shimming? Where are the valves at currently? If it's at the higher end of the allowed clearance then leave it there as the tighter you make it the faster the valves will burn up.

 

[93Bandit]

I know many here are fans of the zip tie method, however I purchased the $15 tool and it worked very well. I did have to figure the best way to use the tool, it was a bit finicky the first few times I used it, but it didn't take long to get the hang of it. I'll also note that I don't like jamming things between the valve and valve seat. Yes, the zip tie is much softer than the valve and seat and won't damage either surface, however, I'm not 100% convinced that this method can't cause the valve stem to bend. Sure, it's probably not very likely, and many members here have used this method without issue. I do not condemn them or consider them to be hacks. But in my opinion, the special tool is only $15.. $15 to do it the correct way and in my opinion the easier way. The $15 was well worth it to me. If the tool was $100, I'd be more tempted to use the zip tie method. But it's not.

As to your original question, I would assume the tool is the same for all GS models. I don't know why the 650 alone would require a different tool than the other models but I am by no means a GS expert.

 

[cowboyup3371]

I'm not 100% convinced that this method can't cause the valve stem to bend..

How would relatively soft plastic cause metal to bend?

 

[Guest]

I know many here are fans of the zip tie method, however I purchased the $15 tool and it worked very well. I did have to figure the best way to use the tool, it was a bit finicky the first few times I used it, but it didn't take long to get the hang of it. I'll also note that I don't like jamming things between the valve and valve seat. Yes, the zip tie is much softer than the valve and seat and won't damage either surface, however, I'm not 100% convinced that this method can't cause the valve stem to bend. Sure, it's probably not very likely, and many members here have used this method without issue. I do not condemn them or consider them to be hacks. But in my opinion, the special tool is only $15.. $15 to do it the correct way and in my opinion the easier way. The $15 was well worth it to me. If the tool was $100, I'd be more tempted to use the zip tie method. But it's not.

As to your original question, I would assume the tool is the same for all GS models. I don't know why the 650 alone would require a different tool than the other models but I am by no means a GS expert.

I'm with you Bandit. I bought the tool... the zip tie method seemed a lot harder for me.. the Tool works well with practice.
If the zip tie method can work for people..that's what they should use.
I figured out the tool so that's what I'll stick with.

 

[Steve]

But in my opinion, the special tool is only $15.. $15 to do it the correct way and in my opinion the easier way. The $15 was well worth it to me.

"Only" $15 or not, here is what happens when your "correct" tool slips off the edge and the shim is only part-way installed:

This is from a Kawasaki, not a Suzuki, but the tool is similar and the whole concept is the same.

When the tool slips off the edge of the bucket and the shim is not fully-seated, it will shatter when the bucket slams upward, toward the cam. Not much you can do then, except spend the next half hour or so fishing with a magnet to see if you have found all the pieces. You can see the only piece I was missing, I felt confident enough to proceed with my valve adjustment.

Once I was introduced to the zip-tie method, I have embraced it fully. As I have visited other members around the country and helped them work on their bikes, I have shown them the "correct" tool that I carry in my tool box, and shown them the difficulty using it. I then show them the simplicity of the zip-tie method and every one of them has also embraced it.

Use whatever works for you, just know that there is more than one way to do the job. :encouragement:

.

 

[TeamDar]

Here are some simple facts. The motion pro tool works good. The factory Suzuki tool is made better and works better and smoother. Factory Suzuki shims are better than aftermarket. Most, if not all examples of shattered shims presented on the forums have been aftermarket. If you use the factory recommended valve adjustment method you can adjust all of the valves in two revolutions of the crankshaft. Any competent mechanic should be able to complete this job without any problems, in a short period of time. If you don’t have any shims in your inventory the job will take much longer. With that being said, use whatever method you feel comfortable with.

 

[Steve]

I have never conducted shatter tests of shims, but I would think that ANY shim that is only supported by the edges will shatter when subjected to the forces of a valve spring.

I have found that doing an adjustment for the first time will be the longest, as I will eventually remove every shim (ONE AT A TIME) to inventory it and enter its size in my spreadsheet. Doing an adjustment on an unknown engine may find that several shims need to be changed, requiring a bit more time. After that, I have been able to do the job in less than 45 minutes from the time I put the bike on the centerstand until the carb sync is done after the shim change(s). Not sure what the flat-rate manual allows for the job, but I am happy with what it takes here.

.

 

[bwringer]

One other note on the MP or factory tool is that you sometimes have to dress the rib on the back of the tool with a file to ensure it's flat; often there's a casting line that will make the thing nearly impossible to use.

Also, the main trick to using the tool successfully is to place sideways pressure toward the cam lobe as you're inserting the tool. This will ensure that it can't slip off. But I'll admit this does take practice and the right "touch" to do consistently.

The zip-tie method works fine too and is pretty foolproof; no chance of a broken shim disaster. And no, wedging the valve open from one side is not going to bend the valve; valves are a LOT stronger than that. Once you know what you're doing, any difference in the total time required is very minor.