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Valve spring installation with head in place?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jackw
  • Start date Start date
J

Jackw

Guest
Hi all,

Does anyone know how to install valve springs without removing the head? I bought a tool but it's way to big to get it into place. I just need to replace the valve seals, everything else looks good. Compression is right where it should be so the valves must be sealing properly...right? Or do you guys think I should just pull the head and do it that way. I guess if I did pull the head I could check the valve seats too. but if I an getting oil into the combustion chamber shouldn't it jsut be the valve seals?

Thanks in advannce!!
Jack
 
I've held the valves closed with compressed air on many a race motor at the track, when a valve spring makes it's mind up, that "two parts are better than one". :confused: I've also heard that you can feed a small rope through the spark plug hole (with the piston at the bottom of the stroke)and then rotate the crank to the top of the stroke as far as you can...the rope holds the valves up in place. If you have access to compressed air, go that route. You'll need to make an adapter for the plug hole, using an old spark plug.
 
Thanks for your reply, but I already have the springs off with the head still on, I now need to figure out how to compress the springs to reinstall them
 
Jackw,
As dave suggests, air can be used to hold valves in place to replace valve seals. Others have used rope in the sparkplug hole.

IMHO I would bite bullet and pull head off. I am trying to remember if the 83550l were 8 valve or 16 valve motors? If 16 valve, I don't know. If 8v, I think it would be best to pull head and check why you are getting enough oil into combustion chamber to foul plugs. I have a 8v 650 that was going through 12 ounces of oil per 100 miles that didn't foul plugs and had 130 psi on each cylinder. It didn't burn all that oil, a fair amount was leaking from every seam in the lower end. It runs perfect, but smokes like a 2 stroke at start up. Some of the oil is from valve seals, more is coming through leaky rings on one cylinder where previous owner had ran a broken compression ring for awhile. It is getting a new top end soon along with the bottom end resealed, not that it effects you, BTW:-D.

My point to this rambling is that I think something else is playing into your oil foul plugs; how is your electrical system--battery, coils, wires, spark plug boots? If your spark is weak, it may not burn off the oil from somewhat normal combustion. How much oil are you consuming? Any signs of exterior leaks not just minor seepage?
 
I think I need to see eye doctor myself along with getting some speed typing lessons:oops:. I didn't seem to comprehend that you were trying to reinstall springs.

If you have a helper, one could compress springs with punch or rod while the other installs keepers maybe..? All I got, obviously will need valves seated fully. Here the rope in cylinder would probably give good results.
 
Thanks for the input, but now I am thinking that I will pull the head and have a look. but could replacing the valve seals be a waste of time? you guys seem to think that the oil could be coming from the bottom end too? basically what was happeming was the plugs were getting too fouled to fire. I have good spark, new plugs, new plug caps and the coils are all good. new airfilter and no air leaks. so my next step was valve seals??? Do I have to pull the pistons and check the rings too?
 
This is the tool

This is the tool

Only use the outside cam cover bolts that are anchored in steel. Be careful when you compress, should not be a problem as there is less that 30 lbs on stock springs about 40 on HP. Use compressed air injected into the spark plug hole using a compression testor fitting attached to your compressor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=190196127072&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=009

I'm planning on doing this.

Posplayr
 
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