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Vetter fairing and trunk modifications- lots of photos

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1000G Shopper
  • Start date Start date
It occurred to me after I pulled the sender that these senders use variable resistance to give a reading. I should be able to plug in a resistor of x value and have the gauge read xx PSI. Having a non-working gauge really defeats the purpose of the setup though. I think I'll like the current setup, plus the price was right. :)

Someday I'll put some nice digital gauges on it. I just added a VEI Systems dual digital oil press/temp gauge to my Concours & it is really nice, albeit about $150 for everything.
 
Having a non-working gauge really defeats the purpose of the setup though.
My original thought (that I guess I didn't convey effectively) was that with some experimentation you could have created an equivalent reading (for example, 50psi would really mean 5psi, etc.) so that the gauge, despite showing a different pressure than actual, would still be a functional (and meaningful) gauge because you could still rely on it to indicate proper operation or a faulty condition.

Looks like you have come up with a nice alternative, however ... Rock on!

Regards,
 
You do know that popping that "HID" kit into that housing is basically defeating the entire purpose of having high intensity lighting, right? You'll have about 75% of the usable light you would have with a standard halogen bulb.
 
Planecrazy,
I understand now what you meant. I didn't think of a proportional variable resistor. I'm happy with the end result so far though.

makenzie71,
That lighting allegation has been made. I don't have any factual experience to support it. I've had good results on my 2009 Dodge & 2006 Concours with aftermarket HID. I've operated both with normal halogens before and then the HID, so I have a baseline for which to compare them. The HID generates a great deal more usable light, not only in range but in actual illumination (objects at roadside, signs, etc. all stand out more).

On the Concours (and now the GS), there was a cap on the front of the bulb that I removed after reading a write up on the Concours site. Perhaps if this cap were left in place, it would diminish the light output to be less than that of a Halogen.
 
makenzie71,
That lighting allegation has been made. I don't have any factual experience to support it. I've had good results on my 2009 Dodge & 2006 Concours with aftermarket HID. I've operated both with normal halogens before and then the HID, so I have a baseline for which to compare them. The HID generates a great deal more usable light, not only in range but in actual illumination (objects at roadside, signs, etc. all stand out more).

On the Concours (and now the GS), there was a cap on the front of the bulb that I removed after reading a write up on the Concours site. Perhaps if this cap were left in place, it would diminish the light output to be less than that of a Halogen.

Would you like real information as to why it is bad, or are you stuck in your ways to the point that it doesn't matter what anyone tells you?
 
Would you like real information as to why it is bad, or are you stuck in your ways to the point that it doesn't matter what anyone tells you?
With all due respect, don't you think it's a rather presumptuous of you to believe that any statistics you could possibly provide (true or otherwise) would trump the "actual positive results" he's experienced on two of his own vehicles? I think this is an area that can easily be classified as "individual mileage will vary."

Some vehicles don't benefit from HID upgrades because the housings and lenses weren't designed for them and consequently they don't provide a big benefit (or any benefit at all). Other vehicles can perform quite well with the mod. In this case we have a situation where not one but TWO vehicles have been improved significantly (in his experience) versus stock, so for you to suggest something other than what he's already experienced isn't likely to be taken very seriously, especially when presented "with attitude," which is how your response came across whether you intended it that way or not ... just saying.

Regards,
 
With all due respect, don't you think it's a rather presumptuous of you...

No, and it's because I understand the illusion as it really is. I see, myself, every day why people think they're getting more light.
 
No, and it's because I understand the illusion as it really is. I see, myself, every day why people think they're getting more light.
Well, then please share what you know. It'll be interesting to see if there's any additional info I wasn't already aware of. I've seen other threads on doing an HID mod to a motorcycle, so I'm aware of some of the issues. I've not been tempted to go HID myself, mainly because I've been running a Silverstar for many years now with excellent results over stock.

Regards,
 
I'm not sure why this member has felt the need to thread crap here, but the upside is that I have found that this forum software has an ignore user feature.

If someone wants to discuss something else, please start another thread.

Thanks.
 
With all the nice modifications you've got going I was reminded of the KG trunk upgrade I did some years ago, by adding a LED brake light to the top of it. I thought that others might be interested in seeing what I did, so I created a thread on it here... Click Me!

Regards,
 
I forgot to include a shot of the triple gauges after it was completed. I'll insert it below. After using them for several months, the voltmeter is OK to read, but the digital combo gauge I had on the Concours spoiled me. The air temp gauge swings 10 degrees depending on the road surface and riding speed. For my ST1100 project, I will recycle the combo OP/Oil temp gauge from the Concours to it, and will be using a digital water temp, voltmeter, and thermometer on the dash I'm making for it.

image007.jpg
 
Now that I've updated the thread, my Equus gauges that are older than the bike have decided to flake out.

I'm now planning a Summit/Cyberdyne digital array with volts-oil pressure-oil temperature in the housing, and an eBay LCD thermometer in one of the speaker covers, or possibly the fairing.
 
Today I finished installing the Cyberdyne red digital gauges to replace the analog ones. Don't waste your money on these:

1) The voltmeter lags horribly. I can rev the engine to well over 3K RPM by which time the analog gauge would be right under 14V. The Cyberdyne takes perhaps 50 seconds to get to the correct reading, and just as long to drop. The $5 one I had on the Concours from eBay worked a lot better than that.
2) The oil pressure gauge will not read below around 6 PSI, so the GS at idle triggers a low oil pressure message that can't be shut off.
3) The oil temp gauge (installed prior to the other two) has been hit or miss. I was wondering why it was flashing 260 on startup, and I found this is the way you set the warning number- my gauge lights are on a dimmer circuit, so if I start the bike in the garage, the gauges see lighting voltage and go into warning set mode. If you ride at night, it will probably stay this way- it did so Sunday morning when I rode it to church pre-sun up. Today while riding, the center digit center segment went out (the gauge is like 2 weeks old). When I re-started for the ride home, it was fine.

If it wasn't such a pain to replace them, I'd do so right away.

I like the Prosport analog stepper motor gauges, and they make digital ones as well- I may try them after I cool off a bit.

EDIT
I've pulled all three & am returning them. I'll try some inexpensive stepper gauges & see how well they work.
 
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UPDATE
After extended use, I saw the HID was causing more problems than it was worth. I'll admit when I'm wrong. It was putting out so much light in an inefficient pattern that I was getting "flashed" on a regular basis, even on divided highways.

After some more research, I went with an IPF housing and 55/60W bulb. Works with the stock wiring OK, or they make bulbs with more power! if that's what you want, but they require heavier wiring.

I found that once aimed properly, I got decent low beam illumination (still not as nice as the HID for overall lighting), and on high beam it worked even better. You have to buy the housings & bulbs two at a time, so I have the other one on my ST1100 and achieved similar results with it. The housing fits into a Vetter Windjammer just fine.

As noted herein, the pattern is key. My wife's 2009 GMC has a very sharp cutoff pattern with the factory halogens, and the IPF does much the same. Here's a photo from the above site illustrating the difference (the IPF bulbs are the next step up from the 55/60W ones I have). IPF is on the left, OEM bulbs on the right:
ipfh4.jpg
 
Well there's an adult way to do things and the other way. Thanks for taking the high road.

If I can make or find a decent projector housing, I can make use of my HID setup, which is still wired on the bike. I have a set of aftermarket headlamp housings for my truck, and found I can install some different projectors in them and should have a really good setup for not too much dough- I just have too many other irons in the fire right now. The trick for the Vetter is to find a 7" projector housing. The ones I've seen or tried so far don't work properly, and there's not enough room behind the housing for most projectors. The HID just about turns the road in front of you into daylight.
 
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