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Vibration after Clutch spring change

salty_monk

salty_monk

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I could be just imagining it but I seem to be getting increased vibration through the whole bike but especially noticeable at the bar after changing my clutch springs.

Is there anything I could have done that could cause this or could it just be that they are different weight to the Suzuki ones or something?

I remember I wasn't too sure how tight to torque the six bolts, could I have done them too tight, too loose or just uneven? Would that cause it?

I haven't touched anything else on the bike recently. What else could cause it? SOmething in the forks? I haven't done a pressure check recently & I am half thinking about an change to the progressive springs with new seals & oil.... would that help?

Didn't want to hi jack the other thread but it got me thinking so thought I'd continue here.

Cheers,

Dan :)
 
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Can't think of anything, in changing the clutch springs, that would create, or enhance, a vibration. Be very careful with small bolts, & no torque wrench, it's very easy to strip something. Even that shouldn't cause a vibration. Anything on the front forks, or suspension, may cause a shake or bounce maybe, but a vibration will almost have to be from the engine or drive train.
 
While just about every nut and bolt on the GS has it's 'correct' torque listed by Suzuki, I can't imagine the spring retaining bolts giving you an unbalanced scenario simply because they weren't all at exactly the same torque. The important thing is that each spring has its bolt, washer and spacer installed.

Since accessing the clutch is relatively easy, I'd just whip it apart to check you have put everything back properly. If you forgot to put a spacer back in (well, I'm assuming your 1000G has spacers like my 1100SZ), then that would get things out of balance.
 
Definitely fitted all spacers bolts & washers, maybe I'm just noticing it more since I changed the grips & with the recent snap of cold weather in my summer gloves....

It's seems to be a vibration as it's jarring my hands & arms.

I guess I'll check air pressure etc & try to see if it's there at a standstill & then try adding bar weights.

Cheers,

Dan :)
 
Check your exhaust fluid.:wink:
Tire pressure? Front tire cupped?
I doubt you threw off your clutch basket balance by putting in new clutch springs. I'd take off your clutch cover and check the tourque of your clutch hub bolt. Also check the back of your clutch hub and see if the springs are snug. My springs were ready to fall out when I switched out mine and I had a real bad vibration that rendered my left mirror useless at speeds over 80.
Make sure your cam chain tensioner isn't stuck.
How's your drive chain tension?
Bill
 
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It would vibrate if one of the bolts broke off...

It would vibrate if one of the bolts broke off...

They are only to be tightened a few ft/lbs, very easy to overdo. Could be weak from old age or overtorqueing in the past too. Look in the oil fill hole and turn the clutch, should be able to see them all to check.
 
Well the old ones were not done up tight at all, the new ones it was kind of hard to judge so maybe I haven't done them tight enough or something then. I was wary of stripping anything. I couldn't find a torque spec for them in Clymer.

Presumably you are meant to bottom out the spacer & then just "nip" them up, that's what I tried to do anyway but the tension on the springs made it hard to judge....

Bill - Exhaust fluid is fine, the spark oil is good too & I checked the flux capacitor ;)
It's a shafty so shouldn't be anything to do with the chain & I don't think the cam chain tensioner is stuck as it's running so well (or is bad running not a symptom?)
I'll check tyre (I run about 28PSI front as per the owners manual, is this right?) & also fork pressures make sure they are equal.

I'm also going to start it up & see how the vibration is at a standstill.

It could have always been there just the cold & the change of grips is highlighting it but I know it's jangling my arms pretty bad on an hour plus continual ride.

Cheers,

Dan :)
 
Well after testing rolling & at standstill at the same consistent revs (without gloves & at slow speed this time so I can feel it better) I have concluded it's the same whatever... Probably you lot would tell me I'm just being a big girl. It's definitely a "buzz" more than anything so I think I'll try the weights & see what happens.I can always take them back.....

Cheers for all the help as ever.

Dan :)
 
I don't follow Suzuki's tire pressure suggestions. I use the tires manufacturer. I run about 38# in my front. This will also prevent your front tires from cupping too soon though your confortable ride may suffer a bit.
 
I'm thinking of removing both my stator rotor and clutch basket and taking them to a machine shop to be balanced. Dang GS vibration is ticking me off too!
 
Synch your carbs!! 99% of the time vibration in the bars is due to the carbs being out of balance. My 1150 is real sensitive. If the carbs are slightly off, I will get a vibration. Accurate carb balancing is a must.
 
You can show me how to do that over a nice steak.... ;) :D

They were done just before I bought it in September, would they really go out of sync that quick?

I've ordered the Manic Salamander bar ends to see what they do.... I need something on there anyway & if they don't work I'll send them back for a total cost of about 10 bucks.

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
You can show me how to do that over a nice steak.... ;) :D

They were done just before I bought it in September, would they really go out of sync that quick?

I've ordered the Manic Salamander bar ends to see what they do.... I need something on there anyway & if they don't work I'll send them back for a total cost of about 10 bucks.

Dan :)
Click to expand...

One steak and a carb balance coming up! :-D

They shouldn't loose their synch too often. Sometimes the adjuster screws can come loose, or weren't tightened down enough in the first place. Have the valve clearances been checked or adjusted? You might also look at your engine mounting bolts to make sure they are tight.

My GS1000's carbs are synched spot-on, and I still get just a slight tingle out of the bars. I, too am going with some bar end weights to see if it helps.
 
I'll have a check to see if I can find anything loose & at the mounting bolts.

The valve clearances could very well need doing, I don't know when they were last done in mileage but TPO said it was a little while back.

It runs really sweet so they can't be that far out. It's on my "to do" list.

Thanks for all your help.

Dan :)
 
I second renobruce's call for carb synchronisation, come to think of it.

So see how you go. Clutch baskets are likely sources of vibration. In fact, on my Kat1100 the vibes are pretty annoying, esp. if you try doing the occasional high-speed burst. The clutch has always been pretty rattly but in the last year or two I think it's got worse. Time to whip the thing out, get a new backing plate and springs, methinks. Maybe a fresh set of roller bearings for the hub, too.

Torque specs from my trusty old Haynes manual, for my GS1000S:
Clutch spring bolts: 8-9 ft.lbs
And while I've got the page open, clutch centre nut: 36-51 ft.lbs

So it's not a huge amount of torque for the clutch spring bolts. In fact, to achieve that torque accurately, you'll need a wrench that does low-ish torques, and not the standard huge wrenches.
 
Thanks, I can't have been far from that torque, maybe I was a bit over.
It's probably just me being a girl ;)
I have bad circulation & summer gloves so.... :D

I have ordered the manic salamander bar ends - expensive but lets see!

Dan :)
 
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