VM Carb rebuild questions: Storing rebuilt carbs? Replacement fuel T/tubes?

[93Bandit]

I've finally gotten around to tinkering on my 77 GS750 cafe project. I don't really have the space to do major work right now, so I decided to work on a few of the small things that need to be done.

My first question is regarding carb storage after a rebuild. I will follow the VM tutorial and order the O rings. Once I'm done, can I store the carbs dry for a couple years without having to rebuild them again before installing them? It'll probably be a year or two before I'm ready to start this bike, so I wanted to make sure I can have the carbs rebuilt on the shelf ready to go when that day comes. I wouldn't think there would be an issue storing them dry after a rebuild, but thought I'd check just in case.

Concerning the fuel tubes and T between the carbs, are the ones on Z1 Enterprises OK? I don't know if I will need them yet, but I've read concern about obtaining these parts for some bikes. According to the website, they fit my bike, but I wanted to double check. Here's the links to the tubes: https://www.z1enterprises.com/fuel-pipe-joint-aluminum-200-1026.html
https://www.z1enterprises.com/fuel-rail-aluminum-suzuki-200-1027.html

Thanks guys.

 

[Steve]

Be sure to lubricate the o-rings when you install them and assemble the carbs.

Storing them freshly-rebuilt and dry should be no problem.

Virtually all the problems with carbs are from gummed-up fuel, so if you don't add fuel, you won't add problems.

.

 

[93Bandit]

Be sure to lubricate the o-rings when you install them and assemble the carbs.

Storing them freshly-rebuilt and dry should be no problem.

Virtually all the problems with carbs are from gummed-up fuel, so if you don't add fuel, you won't add problems.

.

That's what I was thinking.

What do you normally lube the o-rings with?

 

[cowboyup3371]

I use a very small amount of 3-in-1 on each one

 

[Rijko]

What do you normally lube the o-rings with?

If i foresee to store rebuilt carbs, brake cylinders, calipers for some time : acid-free white vaseline. Best way i know of to keep the rubbers from deteriorating.

 

[Big T]

There's actually an O ring specific lube
It's red, sticky and a small container is a lifetime supply. My British car friend has it

I use silicone grease. You can find it in small packets
at any auto parts store

 

[GSXR7ED]

Be sure to lubricate the o-rings when you install them and assemble the carbs.

Storing them freshly-rebuilt and dry should be no problem.

Virtually all the problems with carbs are from gummed-up fuel, so if you don't add fuel, you won't add problems.

.

Very good info! Thanks Steve.

Ed

 

[Sandy]

It is probably a good idea to use something on the rubber parts when assembling anyway, but on the '84 750EF I put back on the road a few years ago the carbs were in perfect condition with no leaks at all after a 17 year hiatus. They were properly drained when the bike was parked ...that was all. So a couple of years on the shelf should not be a problem as long as you do replace the crappy stock rubber T's.

 

[93Bandit]

Thanks for the help guys.

I started disassembling the carbs and I have the fuel T and tubes that use O-rings, so I shouldn't have to purchase new ones.

However, I ran into so damaged/missing components so I need some help locating replacements.

- I need: choke plunger, choke plunger plastic sleeve, Choke plunger lever.
- I need to purchase the rubber throttle shaft grommets for carb bodies.

If anyone has these parts or a spare rack of 77-79 GS750 VM carbs they'd sell to me for a fair price, OR know where I can get all these parts without robbing the bank, PLEASE let me know!

Thanks guys.

 

[93Bandit]

If I can't find the parts I need, short if buying a new set of carbs, can I reuse scored choke plungers? So far one is really messed up and the others are scored.

Here's some pictures of the damage.



This is the worst one.

What do you guys think?

 

[Big T]

I'd start with a Scotchbrite and polish them
If that doesn't smooth them, polish with Emery cloth

The important part is the tip and seal

The bores they go into, what do they look like?

 

[Nessism]

I'd get new-used parts. Easy to find on ebay.

 

[93Bandit]

I'd start with a Scotchbrite and polish them
If that doesn't smooth them, polish with Emery cloth

The important part is the tip and seal

The bores they go into, what do they look like?

As best as I can tell, the bores look ok for the most part.

Fortunately a member here has been kind enough to send me some extra choke parts he had. They should do the trick assuming I can get the carb bodies clean enough.

Does anyone know any tricks to get dirt out of the small passageways inside the carb body? I've only had time to clean one body so far, and I soaked it in carbdip for a few hours then used a can of carb cleaner trying to get the passages cleared, but there's still fine dirt inside. It looks like mud-dobbers lived in these carbs. They're FULL of dried mud...

 

[Nessism]

If the passage is completely blocked it's hard for the carb dip to reach through the entire passage. I'd blast compressed air and carb cleaner, both directions, through each passage. If you can get the passage at least part way clear the carb dip can then get through and soak the rest of the grunge loose. Sometimes it takes more than once cycle of dipping and blasting before the bodies are properly clean.

 

[93Bandit]

If the passage is completely blocked it's hard for the carb dip to reach through the entire passage. I'd blast compressed air and carb cleaner, both directions, through each passage. If you can get the passage at least part way clear the carb dip can then get through and soak the rest of the grunge loose. Sometimes it takes more than once cycle of dipping and blasting before the bodies are properly clean.

That's what I was figuring I had to do, but I was hoping someone had an easy button for me lol.

Looks like I'll be cleaning these for a while.

 

[Big T]

Are you following the tutorial?

Because a few hours in the dip isn't nearly enough

 

[93Bandit]

Are you following the tutorial?

Because a few hours in the dip isn't nearly enough

I am. The tutorial doesn't mention dip time. I've always been told to never allow aluminum parts to soak over 4 hrs in carb dip as it can begin to eat away at the metal. The instructions on the can also state this.

 

[allojohn]

The carbs are make of a zinc alloy..... I think. Anyway, after 24 hours the worst you'll get is a white powdery substance here and there which comes off with light brushing with carb cleaner...

 

[Nessism]

Leaving the carbs in the dip for a long time tends to turn the parts dark. I advocate only leaving them in the minimum time necessary to clean them.

 

[hannibal]

My carbs did get darker after a 24 hr dip. Sprayed with carb cleaner and air but they still weren't clean. Dipped again for 36 hrs. They got darker still but they were clean.