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What clutch kit to buy

timebombprod

Forum Sage
So my clutch is still slipping, it was barely happening for the most part but now it's just way too common again to be fixed by an adjustment, ofcourse I tried doing that again but it just doesn't get it right, I can get it to slip pretty easy and I don't want to risk screwing anything else up. So I must ask, what kit should I buy for my bike?

There's big plans for the Suzuki as soon as I sell the Yamaha, originally I wanted to have two bikes, a twin and a 4 cylinder but if I'm honest I just want a bike I can basically set and forget, for the most part I can do that with the Suzuki but small things keep happening which is expected but also it just looks and feels tired.

I know people have said multiple times the 650 and especially the shaft model are not the bike to modify but this isn't just a 650 it's my first bike and what I've learned on, I'm planning on doing a rebuild on the motor aswell as doing the bore kit, an intake, and replacing the valve springs, while the motor is off I plan on going through the whole bike basically, any bearings I can grease or replace, any seals I can replace, any wires I can get rid of or reroute to clean it up, and ofcourse painting the frame and also tank and fairings.

I have plans of what colour I'm gonna use and I also know the base of the project, which is cleaning it up completely and making sure all is in order and not going out anytime soon, making sure everything mechanical is nothing less of perfect so the only thing I have to do is just let the bike warm up and I'm good to go.
 
Have you removed the the clutch pack and inspected and measured the plates?
Also what's the mileage on this thing? I flogged the crap outta my 550 to the point in drag racing its plates would stick together for several seconds
A frightening thing. But they are still in spec ( barely on last check ) and 30 000 plus hard sudden stop and go miles on em.

Your plates may simply be glazed and easily fixed by using wet sanding on a sheet off glass. You tube it as its simple but tedious to describe in words.

I think in your other thread someone mentions EBC as a good aftermarket supplier.
 
No never inspected them, bike has about 31k miles on it. I ride pretty normal once I'm up to speed but my bike definitely takes it's abuse.

I'll have to check them out

Also, does anyone know the compression number these things came out with new? Did these have 200psi or lower
 
Also I'm gonna have to learn how to remove the clutch pack as I've never fooled with any of the clutch at all
The clutch pack is easy to access if it has screws instead of bolts a cheap manual impact driver will get the cover off.
I have rarely saved a gasket from tearing so youd want one on hand to replace the original during reassembly.

once inside its 6 bolts loosened in sequence to access the plates
plates out use a caliper to measure thickness etc.and feeler gauge for warpage
thats all in the OEM manual 3-47
theres is also a test for the springs to see if they have not weakened.
 
Likely just needs adjusting properly (not at the handlebar) or the springs are knackered.
 
i was thinking springs or something else as the clutch engagement point is very close to the bars and for a short bit i was not having any slippage once bike was fully warm, my clutch is very easy to pull in, more than it probably should.
 
Oem clutch is good but EBC does a replacement kit which is fine although I would recommend you inspect and measure
before buying, getting a new set of springs would not go amiss as they are relatively cheap but do not be tempteted to buy heavy duty springs. (Ask me how I know)
my gs has done 50000 miles and the clutch friction plates were we'll within spec but the springs had shortened when measuring using the data in the workshop manual.
 
saw how im gonna be working with the clutch area, and well i think this rebuild is gonna happen sooner than i expected, ive already taken everything else off before except the head and lower, but ive rebult a few motors already and done all the types of measurements you can do when rebulding a motor, havent had any issue with that so im very confident in the rebuild.
 
hey so something i forgot to add, this may just give more evidence that its clutch springs or somehting else, but its extremely hard to get first into second until its really warm, like atleast 15 minutes of riding. figured id add that incase that shows anything else.
 
hey so something i forgot to add, this may just give more evidence that its clutch springs or somehting else, but its extremely hard to get first into second until its really warm, like atleast 15 minutes of riding. figured id add that incase that shows anything else.

Hard to shift like this suggests either a poorly adjusted clutch, or warped plates.
 
hey so something i forgot to add, this may just give more evidence that its clutch springs or somehting else, but its extremely hard to get first into second until its really warm, like atleast 15 minutes of riding. figured id add that incase that shows anything else.
Is this your daily drive? get a gasket and open it up and check
HF caliper and feeler gauges and a sheet of glass. sheesh
 
I's lucky, I abused my old GS1100E bad for more than 50K mi. Never had a worn out nor warped clutch pate. I've busted hubs, broke & cracked several fiber plates & flattened all the tangs that push on the clutch hub, turned the steels blue & purple, replaced the springs, but never remember a "worn out" plate. Put some "Slick 50" additive in bike once that made the clutch slip very bad till I drained & flushed the crank case a few times then it was back to normal.
 
alright thanks cipher, and rp you are lucky, im guessing it could definitely be because this is my first bike and i never stalled out but im sure im not as smooth as can be, and i do like to put this bike through abuse alot, not so much lately because of the clutch but that will all be fixed soon, everything in the motor casing will be inspected and if its needing a replacement or about to need one its gonna be.

in class every motor ive rebuilt i gained about 10-15 pounds of compression in the motor so i feel like ill do just fine with the rebuild, and the actual bore and kit will be right at $300 so it doesnt seem to be that much of a money pit, i am going to replace the valve springs aswell whether they are good or not, and ofcourse get the clutch going correctly, i probably am going to get a new cable aswell because the one on currently looks like its been ripped off with pliers at some point.
 
What kind of "kit" can you get for $300? Unless you or your best friend have a boring machine, the boring alone will cost close to $300. Fix the clutch problem first. As mentioned, if hard to shift, it's out of adjustment. Breaking the glaze as described works. Try it first with new oem springs.
 
What kind of "kit" can you get for $300? Unless you or your best friend have a boring machine, the boring alone will cost close to $300. Fix the clutch problem first. As mentioned, if hard to shift, it's out of adjustment. Breaking the glaze as described works. Try it first with new oem springs.

yeah im going for oem, i called around for bore work and yeah surprisingly a shop will do the work for $125 for all cylinders and i checked the reviews to make sure it was a good shop and its all 5 start reviews except one that was a 3 star and it didnt have to do with the quality of work at all. money isnt the biggest thing as i plan on doing this all at once when the funds are there, just waiting for the virago to sell and also doing plenty of sidework, and tax return season is coming up.
 
i iwsh i knew what that meant lol....unless you are talking about the literal iguanas falling out of trees in Florida during this weather. there's been 3 days here that would've snowed if the rain hit on the right time, i really wish it did.
 
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